How to find a good wet basement contractor?

   / How to find a good wet basement contractor?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Paddy said:
Grey water systems are fine, just not tied with your bacement drainage.

You have likely destroyed the perimeter drain with soap scum, lint
Yep, that is why I changed over to an above floor tank/sump pump for the washer and sink. It is pumped to an old well/pit 50' from the house.
 
   / How to find a good wet basement contractor?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
JB4310 said:
Ihfarm,
Knowing what we know about your situation I don't think you have any other choice but to go with the sub-floor drainage system, which would be my first choice, but as you can see others believe as strongly in the exterior system.

You still need a sump pit for a junction, but might not need a pump if the side of your house that is on the down hill side is accessible (no additions, porches etc) use your back hoe to dig a trench to the area where the existing drain came to daylight, always better to drain by gravity than rely on a pump/electricity.
If you go with the gravity trench, use solid pipe out side and you can tie your leader pipes/surface drains into the same trench, just not the same pipe, you want to keep them separated and the outside drains don't have to be that deep in the ground as the one coming out from under the basement floor, keep a narrow trench and the outside drain can go on top of the basement drain.

You do need a little pitch to prevent sediment build up, but it's gonna happen anyway due to the slow passive movement of the water from under the house, that's why you need the junction pit so you can flush test/clean it from inside. you don't have to get carried away with the pitch, even 1-2 % is fine, but at no point can the pipe have a hump in it that is above the floor level in the basement and as the pipe gets in the frost zone you don't want any dips either, to prevent freezing. you want to set the discharge line so that the level of water under the floor is a min of 6-8 inches.

A simple way to check all these specs is when the trench is open before any pipe is put in, test it with water in the bottom of the trenches (inside and out), the bottom of the trench should be the exact contour you need and then any piping (outside) will be solid so you don't need any stone or filter fabric just lay the pipe on the bottom and back fill with dirt.
John.
I do have access to the east side of the house (pictured above). So would the inside trench come through the wall? My only problem with that setup is that the finished area is along that east wall. The basement is divided into a large family area (with fireplace) that runs the length of the house and takes about half the width. There is a block wall dividing the family area from the bedroom and a utility room. The utility room is at opposite (west) end of the exposed east side. The sump pit in the bedroom would be a problem :).

The foundation drain does come through the floor in the utility room, in the corner where I would want the pit. I was thinking I might be able to tie it into the sump pit, so that if water was backing up (like it is now) it would have somewhere to flow. I know that outlet in the utility room is the high point, so I need some corrective action on the exterior.

My father-in-law told me that they had hit bedrock when they put the tile leading to day light. It doesn't have much slope. If I do the inside drain, I think I should also replace the old outside clay tile with solid pipe. I don't know if my backhoe could chip the sandstone, but it is something I need to consider.
 
   / How to find a good wet basement contractor? #13  
If you do a proper positive drain you will not need an inside drain. Do I understand correctly that you belive all the pipe around the outside of the foundation is full, or only that which is out to the end?

As for grey water, in my case I wouldn't touch it unless the grey was sent into the septic. Reason being, if there are issues down the road, my name and my reputation is on the job.

A couple things on contractors. Yes, use someone who uses their name in the name of the company (see link below). But as far as hiring someone, with the way the economy is these days I seldom work for anyone out of the blue. If I don't know them and they don't come recommended from someone else then they need to pony-up a deposit before I spend money on time and materials. For every crooked contractor out there there are 2 crooked customers looking to get something for nothing.

Ask around, find someone that comes recommended. I do no advertising, I'd rather work by word of mouth than have every tom dick and harry calling me for estimates to see who does the job cheapest. You get what you pay for.
 
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   / How to find a good wet basement contractor? #14  
Sounds like a difficult situation at best. Much of the original drain tile, now plugged with sediment, is covered by additions and inaccessible. An interior drain is not going to look very good going around the perimeter of finished space to a sump pit. The interior drain trenches I have seen remain exposed.

How is the grade around the perimeter of the house? Is it directing water quickly away from the foundation wall? Is there a good gutter system with extensions on the down spouts? Does the lay of the land naturally direct water toward the house? I would do as much as possible outside before tearing up the finished space.

I would dig up as much of the clay tile as you can get to in hopes that the clogging is more at the exit end rather than near the foundation. Nice looking place, good luck.

MarkV
 
   / How to find a good wet basement contractor? #15  
lhfarm said:
My father-in-law told me that they had hit bedrock when they put the tile leading to day light. It doesn't have much slope. If I do the inside drain, I think I should also replace the old outside clay tile with solid pipe. I don't know if my backhoe could chip the sandstone, but it is something I need to consider.

I don't have the complete picture, but in general you want the interior footing drain to follow all the foundation walls in a loop for complete protection, it is pretty invasive in a finished space as you do need to break the floor right up to the foundation wall for that critical detail, normally we can work under a framed wall for this, might have to cut the bottom foot or so of the drywall or paneling, you said your gonna remodel so that is the time to do it.
Partition walls, even block can be gone under, but fireplaces create a challenge if they are on the outside wall, especially if they have a raised hearth (usually just sitting on the floor).
As far as having the pit in a finished room, if your not going to have a pump it will be just flush with the floor with a cover over it and you can put what ever you want over that (keep it accessible), if your gonna go with the gravity line out then you do have to go thru/under the footing/foundation.
As long as the original drain went to daylight and was lower than the basement floor then all you have to do is follow that same line and replace with new pipe, you shouldn't have to cut any more stone. you can start at the discharge end and start uncovering the pipe following it back to the house, if I'm following you correctly.
 
   / How to find a good wet basement contractor?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
JB4310 said:
I don't have the complete picture, but in general you want the interior footing drain to follow all the foundation walls in a loop for complete protection, it is pretty invasive in a finished space as you do need to break the floor right up to the foundation wall for that critical detail, normally we can work under a framed wall for this, might have to cut the bottom foot or so of the drywall or paneling, you said your gonna remodel so that is the time to do it.
Partition walls, even block can be gone under, but fireplaces create a challenge if they are on the outside wall, especially if they have a raised hearth (usually just sitting on the floor).
As far as having the pit in a finished room, if your not going to have a pump it will be just flush with the floor with a cover over it and you can put what ever you want over that (keep it accessible), if your gonna go with the gravity line out then you do have to go thru/under the footing/foundation.
As long as the original drain went to daylight and was lower than the basement floor then all you have to do is follow that same line and replace with new pipe, you shouldn't have to cut any more stone. you can start at the discharge end and start uncovering the pipe following it back to the house, if I'm following you correctly.
The south wall, has the stair landing and the raised fireplace. It also has the covered porch on the other side. I don't think it would ever get wet if not for the water backing up into the old foundation tiles. I may just start on the side that would be the easiest (north side with the utility room and bedroom) and replace as much of the outside old red tile as I can. If all I need to do is replace the original along the east wall and out to daylight, I can do that part with my BH. There is a gas line running across the yard that I'll have them locate long before I start:).
Still trying to contact contractors and sucking water. Thanks for all the advice.
 

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