How to fix this road with ruts

[cqaigy2]

The U.S. Forest Service has some good literature on making roads.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm never in favor of loosening hard pack that's currently in the right place. I wouldn't consider ripping up the entire roadbed. I'd just move what parts needed moved to get the end result I was after, regardless of your choice of design.

Your BB with TnT will absolutely do this job. You build slope or crown by tilting the BB. Let the lowered end fill with material and spill over toward the higher end.

3 things needed here. Patience. Patience. Patience.

Then in the future 3 more things. Maintenance. Maintenance. Maintenance.

 

[mopardude318]

Well I appreciate everyone's help and advice. I think what I'm also gonna do is just go buy me that LandPride RBT4596 rear blade. My Kubota dealer has a brand new one on the lot that's been sitting for a year, they'll take 20% off msrp I guess. I've been eyeballing one since I first bought my tractor over a year ago. We always needed one out here at our property, the roads have always been crap, I'm tired of it, but I never wanted to fork up the cash. It will get used, I have about a mile and a half of dirt road to fix. I'll just put some money down and pay off the Kubota credit in a year.
I hope this allows me to actually "fix" the problem, like mentioned by member 'Cord', I do want to fix it.

Never used a rear blade so it'll be a learning experience, just like figuring out that box blade. Like I said earlier if I cant screw it up than nobody can. lol
-hope I'm makin the right choice.

ovrszd, I guess 2 implements are better than one, figure it'll help me achieve what I need to do.:tractor:

 

[GLyford]

This vid might be similar to what you are trying to do.

Total driveway regrade with a tractor and box blade. - YouTube

 

[ovrszd]

I've got a $75 rear blade. Rhino brand. Very adjustable. I use it once in awhile. Handy tool to have.

Make sure to follow up with pics and stories of the road repairs!!!

 

[Egon]

Well I appreciate everyone's help and advice. I think what I'm also gonna do is just go buy me that LandPride RBT4596 rear blade. My Kubota dealer has a brand new one on the lot that's been sitting for a year, they'll take 20% off msrp I guess. I've been eyeballing one since I first bought my tractor over a year ago. We always needed one out here at our property, the roads have always been crap, I'm tired of it, but I never wanted to fork up the cash. It will get used, I have about a mile and a half of dirt road to fix. I'll just put some money down and pay off the Kubota credit in a year.
I hope this allows me to actually "fix" the problem, like mentioned by member 'Cord', I do want to fix it.

Never used a rear blade so it'll be a learning experience, just like figuring out that box blade. Like I said earlier if I cant screw it up than nobody can. lol
-hope I'm makin the right choice.

ovrszd, I guess 2 implements are better than one, figure it'll help me achieve what I need to do.:tractor:

For best results put gage wheels on the back blade.

The box blade is also useful. Ripping and moving material along the road.

Use the blade to establish ditches & road edge. Then the box blade to throughly scarify the surface and drag material uphill to low spots and sorta level things. Then make the road with the blade. A windrow of material back and forth to mix and even out the grade.

 

[airbiscuit]

With as much road as you have, I think you would really like gauge wheels. It would make you an expert operator

 

[nyone]

Back blades suck for road work. Your box blade with teeth is the right tool for the job. Get as much loos as you think you need then tip your box.

A back blade was the first thing i bought. Then i got a box blade and after 4 yrs of never putting the blade on again i sold it.

 

[Cord]

I hope this allows me to actually "fix" the problem, like mentioned by member 'Cord', I do want to fix it. :

Ok, now I can help you! The biggest thing is to control the water. Currently, you have water running parallel with the paved surface and this creates a rut. The rut channels the water thus making the problem even worse. Once you control the water you'll solve the problem. This could be installing a series of water boards or swales to direct the water to the side and rebanking the entire road surface as shown in the image. I like banking back into the hillside because you won't washout the outside road edge. Rip-rap will help prevent the ditch from washing. For my hill, I found that wear resulted in ruts forming and I wasn't able to control the water resulting in gravel loss. I ended up "paving" the road with Bodpavers and that stopped the wear and has allowed me to control the water. Not the cheapest solutions, but it has been holding up quite well.

 

[airbiscuit]

Back blades suck for road work. Your box blade with teeth is the right tool for the job. Get as much loos as you think you need then tip your box.

A back blade was the first thing i bought. Then i got a box blade and after 4 yrs of never putting the blade on again i sold it.

A rear blade alone can require a lot of 3pt finesse (less so if it is angled). A rear blade with gauge wheels is a completely different animal Having the blade suspended between the 3pt and the rear wheel really smooths things out (literally). It shaves off the high spots and fills in the low spots, and is waaay easier to use. It can create and maintain a crown or slope. It is close to emulating a road grader. (they have road graders, not road box blades :wink: )