Rotary Cutter How to "float"

[Delphicoder]

OK, I am a real noob at this (rotary cutter and tractors in general). When I hook up my LandPride 4 ft rotary cutter, I have it all attached like the manual states, at least so I think. It does fine on FLAT areas, but unfortunately a lot of what I am trying to clean up is hilly/bumpy. So, when I crest a hill and start to go over it, the rotary cutter 's angle is such that it is not touching anything at all. If you can imagine a 4X8 sheet of plywood mounted to the rear of the tractor, that is what it seems like. If I did not have the top link attached, seems like it would float, but then the "runners" on it would get worn out real fast! I have a little BX25, and I just wonder if the larger tractors have a top link that automatically adjusts to keep the attachment "fluid" (I have no idea how that would work). Maybe I am just doing something really stupid?

 

[gwdixon]

Nope, nothing stupid, that is how they work. Usually folks leave the top link a bit long to allow the mower to flex over mounds. Some mowers (Bush Hog) use a chain from the top link to the mower deck to give it even more flex.

Try lengthening the top link and raising the deck until the skids are just off of the ground during mowing.

A way to check is to raise the whole deck off of the ground. The rear wheel should come off the ground last and the deck should angle downward in the direction of the wheel. That angle should be the same as the most severe mound that you go over.

 

[MikeInEburg]

Some folks mow with the top kink disconnected. This allows the mower to follow the ground contours much better. However, it can also be a safety hazard as there is nothing preventing the mower from flipping up and onto the rear of the tractor.
Mike.

 

[Delphicoder]

Thanks all. I will try the suggestions posted here this week.

 

[greg_g]

Well, Landpride only makes two 48" cutters, and they both (should) have a floating toplink bracket. That's the U-shaped bracket that's pinned to the mower A-frame. You pin your tractor toplink to the open holes in that bracket.

Start by lowering the cutter all the way to the ground. Tighten the toplink as much as you can by hand. Don't over tighten. Raise the rear lift. Transport the cutter. When you get to where you want to mow, lower the cutter all the way to the ground again. Loosen the toplink until such time as a U-shaped floating bracket is pointing straight down at the ground. Mow your heart out. When you're done, tighten the toplink up to the transport length again.

//greg//

 

[SPYDERLK]

You have to float your 3ph. On a BX the valve has to be pushed all the way forward and prevented from coming back to center. They auto center when you let go and prevent the 3ph from going any lower. Not like a regular tractor.
larry

 

[TripleR]

Pretty much the nature of the beast on that set up. I have a hydraulic toplink on my L5030 which I can adjust on the go and mitigate this to some extent, but it is a lot of trouble. We use a pull type on our M8540 and it works really well, but I run into the same thing you are with my BX2660 and Land Pride 48" cutter. As mentioned, there are some things you can do to improve performance, but in the end, it will always rise up to some extent cresting any kind of hill/rise.

 

[bironacad]

OK, I am a real noob at this (rotary cutter and tractors in general). When I hook up my LandPride 4 ft rotary cutter, I have it all attached like the manual states, at least so I think. It does fine on FLAT areas, but unfortunately a lot of what I am trying to clean up is hilly/bumpy. So, when I crest a hill and start to go over it, the rotary cutter 's angle is such that it is not touching anything at all. If you can imagine a 4X8 sheet of plywood mounted to the rear of the tractor, that is what it seems like. If I did not have the top link attached, seems like it would float, but then the "runners" on it would get worn out real fast! I have a little BX25, and I just wonder if the larger tractors have a top link that automatically adjusts to keep the attachment "fluid" (I have no idea how that would work). Maybe I am just doing something really stupid?

Not to worry I am reading and learning too. If everyone knew everything what would be the point of the forum:thumbsup:

 

[skipmarcy]

The slotted toplink mount on my old Howse works very well in our hilly country here. The hydraulic toplink makes it easy to readjust if necessary for special areas on-the-fly but overall I can set it and forget it on my 6 acres when I used to cut here with it - I now use a finish mower. Doesn't look like much travel in that short slot but it means alot at the rear of the 6' cutter. I guess if my cutter didn't have the slot I would try a short chain, although I would worry some when backing uphill with it - the way it is now it can't flip up and destroy the pto shaft.

 

[Mechanos]

On my rotary cutter, the last few inches of the supports that run from the A-frame to the rear of the deck are chains. This allows for some movement of the deck but also will not let it flip completely up if backing up a slope.