How-to ?- foundations

[MarkV]

I’ll second Eddie’s suggestion for the easiest way to get the finish profile you want. With the thin veneer brick you can attach then directly to the concrete foundation without having to form up a brick ledge and your sill plate will be bearing on the concrete foundation rather than partly on the brick. I also think the way you show it in your drawing you will not pass code on the foundation. The thickness of a full size brick with mortar is 4” which leaves 11/2” for the concrete if you want the foundation to be the width of a 2x6.

MarkV

 

[Haoleguy]

Consider insulated concrete form(ICF) with brick ledge. Check out manufacturers like Eco-block, Arxx, BuildBlock, etc. You can do this work yourself. In someways it is a complex leggo build.....

 

[MikeD74T]

weesa20, You don't say whether you're doing this yourself or contracting it out. I'm guessing you're contracting. Any form company can pour a brickshelf. A filler is simply inserted in the top of the wall to displace some concrete. An 8" wall with a 3 1/2" filler is common. When the brick is laid it will be flush with the top of concrete and be a bearing surface. The brick will carry as much weight as concrete or block. If you want block, & since there's no cellar involved, you could use 6" block up to the bottom of the brick & 1 1/2" block (called soaps) behind the brick the rest of the way up. A 6" block wall is plenty to support a garage. This gives you a foundation the same thickness as the stud wall. There's no ledge left over on the inside to catch dirt & get in the way and both interior/exterior sheathing extend over the joint making less drafts. MikeD74T

 

[wilkesland]

Weesa,

I suggest that you get a copy of the North Carolina Residential Building code, it will answer your questions. There are a lot of different ways to build a foundation that will be perfectly acceptable. However, if you choose one that is not contained in the building code, then it will be up to you to prove to the code official that it is acceptable, which means hiring an engineer.

If you plan on doing much in the way of building around the house, you will find the code to be an invaluable reference. I know I have gotten a lot of use out of mine for various and sudried projects.

The residential code is available through the NC Department of Insurance.

Hope this helps.

Barry

 

[rlk]

Weesa,

I suggest that you get a copy of the North Carolina Residential Building code, it will answer your questions. There are a lot of different ways to build a foundation that will be perfectly acceptable. However, if you choose one that is not contained in the building code, then it will be up to you to prove to the code official that it is acceptable, which means hiring an engineer.

If you plan on doing much in the way of building around the house, you will find the code to be an invaluable reference. I know I have gotten a lot of use out of mine for various and sudried projects.

The residential code is available through the NC Department of Insurance.

Hope this helps.

Barry

The NC Building Codes pertaining to Foundations can be found online here: http://ecodes.iccsafe.org/nxt/gateway.dll?f=templates$fn=contents-nf.htm$cp=Residential%2Fpart00382%2Fchapter00576$tt=main-nf.htm$3.0

Bob

 

[weesa20]

Thanks for all the replies...I will try to get a copy of the NC Code...I have read parts of it before but it has been awhile. I am trying to decide if I will try to tackle it myself with my family (lots of experience with concrete) and then get the brick part done by a mason or if I should just go with all block and brick.

I could use 2x8 for the sill plate and have 3 1/2 inches concrete and 4 inches brick...

I will probably just contract it all out and then I will focus on the stick part...but I hate to pay anyone to do anything because I can usually do it better myself and pay more attention to detail...I just want it done right so that the rest of the building turns out well

W

 

[CurlyDave]

Even if you get a contractor to do it, have the plans checked by an engineer, before you build anything. It is the best money you will ever spend.

I hae a neighbor who built his house at the top of a small knob, and put in a fairly steep driveway. He didn't believe in engineers, he just had his contractor do it.

Well, two years ago the retaining wall he had put in to hold the driveway in place failed -- fell over in the winter rains. No huge loss, the driveway was only gravel at that point.

So, he had it rebuilt and they did it a little better this time. A little better wasn't good enough, and last winter it fell over again. I tried to explain how retaining walls are designed to him, and how water behind the wall will frequently make it collapse.

So, this summer he got a different contractor to build a new one, but he still wouldn't get an engineer to design it. And, he decided that now was the time to asphalt the driveway.

Well, the rains have started, and there is serious trouble with the retaining wall. I hope he can get it stabilized in time to avoid losing 300' of asphalt driveway...

 

[Dusty]

Some people keep making the same mistakes, thinking that the results will be different next time. What he has paid for building the wall 3 times would have paid for the engineer and doing it right the first time, and probably would have had money left over.
Dusty

 

[Egon]

CurlyDave has, as always, given you sound advive.