How to pull bearing from Flail Mower shaft?

[tillerkiller]

Just to be clear, you don't stick the punch into the hole at a right angle, you align it to push the ring around in a circle when you hit it with the hammer. You can use a cold chisel for this too, but you are not trying to cut the locking ring, you are just trying to turn it, and it is pretty hard, so there is no good tool to do this with, so be careful when you hit things with the hammer. One or more of those holes is not threaded, use those so you don't bugger a hole with threads in it.

 

[CJTOM]

I am clear. I was going to use my cold chisel to knock the ring around the shaft. And there are definitely two holes. One has threads, the other I am not sure.

Tom

 

[frwinks]

good luck... I had to remove a shaft bearing on the drive side of my flair a week ago... I was lucky, mine slipped off after only a few whacks with a chisel/hammer..
the bearing was completely shot, I'll be replacing both sides

 

[CJTOM]

Hey that looks familiar....

 

[schmism]

you an cut a slot in the race about 3/4" the way through, then take a cold chisle and split the slot open. this keeps you from cutting into the surface of the shaft.

 

[CJTOM]

Well I beat on the lock ring to no avail. Both Clockwise and CCW.

Which way does it turn?
Will turning the lock ring push the bearing off?
How does the lock ring interact with the inner race?
Do I need a puller once the ring has properly rotated?

I checked for set screws, and the holes appear to be empty.

Tomorrow I will have a torch for some heating. I need to know which way to go with the lock ring though.

Thanks,

 

[zzvyb6]

This is actually a common form of support bearing on driven shafts (the undriven end). Tractor Supply has all sizes of this bearing usually in stock. Often used on mowers, disks and tillers.

In fact the new bearing doesn't need to be all that tight on the shaft. The weight and drive torque will engage the bearing surfaces. When you get the old race off, use some grit paper to smooth off the burrs, corrosion or dried grease from the shaft. I prefer a die grinder to a torch because the torch heat can soften the shaft if over done. Get it started with a groove and use your cold chisel to finish the job.

 

[CJTOM]

ZZ-

What about the lock ring? Can I just cut that off also? Do I need a replacement lock ring with the new bearing?

Thanks,

 

[tillerkiller]

You will get a new locking ring with your new bearing so you may use any means you can think of to get the old one off.

There is an off-center shoulder on both the bearing and the locking ring. When they are lined up right they make a perfect circle for the shaft to go through. When one is turned (but not the other) they offset from each other and create a bind on whatever shaft they are around. You can never tell which direction they were turned from each other when they were put on so you never know which way to turn them to take them off. And they can seize up real good too, as you have found out. I would cut a slot into the locking ring, as far as you can without nicking the shaft, and the give the slot the cold chisel treatment and it will hopefully split off of the bearing race, and go flying away with great happiness on your part. It will also be softer than the bearing (but maybe not) so it will probably give up before the screaming starts.


ps.... there IS a set screw in one of those holes, but if you split the locking ring then it won't make any difference anyway.

ps again,,, why does every project always end up with MR ANGLE GRINDER becoming the decisive factor.

 

[elkun1]

If you're comfortable with a cutting torch just cut it off. The race cuts easily, but be sure not to angle the tip towards the shaft. One cut usually does it but sometimes i've had them rusted on so bad that i've had to cut in two places. It cuts so quick that the shaft doesn't really have time to get very warm. a little emery cloth and your ready to go. good luck and let us know how ya did it. Ron