How to raise loader arms on non-working tractor?

[CenTex Chris]

Howdy from Texas,

I have a Kioti CK35 HST that will not start (fully charged batt. but key only clicks).

I need to get this thing up on the flatbed somehow so I can take it to the dealer for service.

I can do this with comealong hoist and chain, however the tractor loader arms and bucket are all the way down and very much in the way. How can I raise the loader arms?

Fortunately the bucket is not flat on the ground. It's resting at an angle on two pulled fence posts so I have a couple inches of clearance below the bottom edge. Might have to upload a pic to show what I mean.

If anybody has any tricks for manually raising loader arms, I'd be most obliged. Thanks in advance!

 

[ning]

Howdy from Texas,

I have a Kioti CK35 HST that will not start (fully charged batt. but key only clicks).

I need to get this thing up on the flatbed somehow so I can take it to the dealer for service.

I can do this with comealong hoist and chain, however the tractor loader arms and bucket are all the way down and very much in the way. How can I raise the loader arms?

Fortunately the bucket is not flat on the ground. It's resting at an angle on two pulled fence posts so I have a couple inches of clearance below the bottom edge. Might have to upload a pic to show what I mean.

If anybody has any tricks for manually raising loader arms, I'd be most obliged. Thanks in advance!

Do you need power to remove the loader completely? May be easiest to take it off and only take the tractor to the dealer.

 

[k0ua]

Howdy from Texas,

I have a Kioti CK35 HST that will not start (fully charged batt. but key only clicks).

I need to get this thing up on the flatbed somehow so I can take it to the dealer for service.

I can do this with comealong hoist and chain, however the tractor loader arms and bucket are all the way down and very much in the way. How can I raise the loader arms?

Fortunately the bucket is not flat on the ground. It's resting at an angle on two pulled fence posts so I have a couple inches of clearance below the bottom edge. Might have to upload a pic to show what I mean.

If anybody has any tricks for manually raising loader arms, I'd be most obliged. Thanks in advance!

Chris, while I haven't personally done this, I would think that that if you placed the joystick into "float" mode by pushing it forward past the detent where it should stay, then raising the loader arms by any method you choose, Jack, long lever and a fulcrum (2x4 and chunk of wood) or some other method to get them raised off of the ground temporarily. Then when they are up, push the joystick back to the neutral position. and block the arms up with a piece of angle iron and tye wrap it to the cylinder so it doesn't come loose. They should stay up and you can then get it on the transport trailer. If you don't have any angle iron of suitable size, you could nail a couple of 2x4's together on their edges at right angles to make an angle block.

BUT, the first thing I would do is fix the tractor where it stands. The very first thing I would do is swap the fuel shut off relays and the starter solenoid relays to see if it would now crank. Of course If I had a new starter relay on hand I would just use it. Those relays are notorious for failure. They are cheap and easy to acquire at the auto parts store.

 

[k0ua]

Do you need power to remove the loader completely? May be easiest to take it off and only take the tractor to the dealer.

Removing the loader without a running tractor would be very problematic, as hydraulics are used to get it both off and on. I am not saying it couldn't be done with using levers to pry it off, but it would be a real pain.

 

[CenTex Chris]

Do you need power to remove the loader completely?

My understanding is that the conventional way to remove the loader arms requires a running tractor, providing hydraulic pressure. Right now I have neither!

 

[CenTex Chris]

block the arms up with a piece of angle iron

Yes, my dealer gave me a piece of angle iron for this very purpose back when I bought the tractor. Just gotta *find* it!

The very first thing I would do is swap the fuel shut off relays and the starter solenoid relays... they are cheap and easy to acquire at the auto parts store.

Hey, that gives me something to go on. They're common? I suppose I can pull 'em (once I figure out where they are) and see if the local AutoZone has a match.

Thanks James,

 

[k0ua]

Yes, my dealer gave me a piece of angle iron for this very purpose back when I bought the tractor. Just gotta *find* it!



Hey, that gives me something to go on. They're common? I suppose I can pull 'em (once I figure out where they are) and see if the local AutoZone has a match.

Thanks James,

Yes, they are a very common relay. The fuel shut off relay and the starter solenoid relay (a likely suspect here if the starter will not turn and the battery feed to it is for sure good and not corroded) can be swapped as they are the same relay. This will allow the tractor to crank, and if the original starter solenoid relay is bad, and now controlling the fuel solenoid. then the tractor WILL NOT START, but it will crank. This will tell you that the original starter relay is defective and you can yank it out of its connector and take it with you to the auto parts store. Do you have a voltmeter and know how to use it?

 

[k0ua]

The Relays are on the upper left firewall. The pre heat relay should have a 70 amp rating the other two should have a 40 amp rating. Find the two that are the same and swap them.

 

[k0ua]

Just to be sure, the original problem is that the starter motor will not turn over correct? You hear a relay click, (probably the fuel relay and solenoid out on the fuel rack) but when the key is moved to the start position, the starter motor does not rotate.

 

[k0ua]

This may help. Of course the clutch switch could be at fault here too.

 

[CenTex Chris]

James, many thanks.

I have an old-school analog voltmeter but honestly I've never used it.

Correct, the starter motor will not chooch. I'm hearing only a relay click.

There are two identical relays down by the batt., and two more plus another up on the left side of the firewall. I'll swap the two identical ones up on the firewall as you suggest, to see if it'll crank (but not start, of course, since they're swapped).

 

[k0ua]

James, many thanks.

I have an old-school analog voltmeter but honestly I've never used it.

Correct, the starter motor will not chooch. I'm hearing only a relay click.

There are two identical relays down by the batt., and two more plus another up on the left side of the firewall. I'll swap the two identical ones up on the firewall as you suggest, to see if it'll crank (but not start, of course, since they're swapped).

give it a try Chris, and report back... don't forget the possible clutch switch too. You could jumper around it to make sure.

 

[CenTex Chris]

swapped... as they are the same relay. This will allow the tractor to crank, and if the original starter solenoid relay is bad, and now controlling the fuel solenoid. then the tractor WILL NOT START, but it will crank. This will tell you that the original starter relay is defective...

Holy smokes!

I swapped 'em, and not only did the tractor motor crank -- it also started and RAN.

I was *not* expecting that!

About to head into town to see if I can get new replacements for those relays. Maybe a couple extra, too.

Gee whiz, James -- you just saved me a lot of heartburn, sweat, profanity and calorie expenditure, all of which I was fully resigned to using this afternoon.

Much appreciated!

 

[k0ua]

Holy smokes!

I swapped 'em, and not only did the tractor motor crank -- it also started and RAN.

I was *not* expecting that!

About to head into town to see if I can get new replacements for those relays. Maybe a couple extra, too.

Gee whiz, James -- you just saved me a lot of heartburn, sweat, profanity and calorie expenditure, all of which I was fully resigned to using this afternoon.

Much appreciated!

Yeah sometimes when you swap em it "knocks em loose" or something. Glad you got it going Chris... Replace them both, and keep some on hand. Pay it forward, and help someone else. Good luck.

 

[CenTex Chris]

Will do; thanks again James.

I figured out how I would have raised the loader arms. I have a horse trailer with a loading ramp whose springs were worn out years ago. I had a 1500lb electric winch installed up at the roof line at the rear of the trailer after I developed a hernia from lifting that ramp by hand too many times. I would have hooked up the trailer and backed it up to the front of the tractor in order to raise the bucket and loader arms with that winch.

Fortunately due to your help, I didn't have to go through with that plan.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Holy smokes!

I swapped 'em, and not only did the tractor motor crank -- it also started and RAN.

I was *not* expecting that!

About to head into town to see if I can get new replacements for those relays. Maybe a couple extra, too.

Gee whiz, James -- you just saved me a lot of heartburn, sweat, profanity and calorie expenditure, all of which I was fully resigned to using this afternoon.

Much appreciated!

Oddly, there have been several cases where just swapping those relays allowed the tractor to actually start. But you obviouslu have at least one marginal relay, so replace both. Here's another possible source:Amazon.com: 5 Pack - EPAuto 3/4 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style: Automotive

James: Good job!!

 

[pmsmechanic]

Obviously your tractor is running but lets say it wouldn't start. All you need to do is line up the tractor and trailer and slide the bucket up the ramps as you pull it on. If you leave the loader control in the float position while winching you won't have any problems

 

[jabelding]

Or just pull it on backwards if you can get at it.
Glad you got it going. 9 times out of 10 it's the relays on these tractors.

 

[not2old]

There is also a possibility that the relays are OK and that you had a poor connection somewhere in the battery to starter circuit.

 

[JimR]

There is also a possibility that the relays are OK and that you had a poor connection somewhere in the battery to starter circuit.

That was my thought as I was reading this posting. Dirty connections wreak havoc for sure. Glad to hear it was an easy fix.