How to reclaim/improve pasture?

[IslandTractor]

Thanks guys, the two pass drag harrow technique sounds like a reasonable start. I am dealing with relatively sparcely covered reclaimed pasture and I just want to get some low maintenance grasses growing. I'll contact the local ag service for further advice.

 

[heymack]

Call and get your local NRCS reps out there to do a site inspection. They'll help identify what type of grasses you currently have and make recommendations from there. With the size of your tract, there's even a good chance they'll split costs ~50% with you to do improvements.

At the present time I'm doing something very similar to what you want to do. I've had several biologists out as well as agents from the US Fish and Wildlife and NRCS. Most recently I met with my county extension agent. Interestingly enough, not a single one of them hs recommended a soil sample (I'm doing a few anyway just because I think it's a good idea). Rather, they're telling me since I'm not interested in growing non-indigenous species, there's not really a need. In other words, if merely reintroducing native grasses, it's proven that they'll grow without addition of anything.

 

[flusher]

I have about 15 acres of pasture/fields in central Virginia that haven't been mowed and were only minimally grazed (by horses) for many years. I've spent the past year or so cutting monthly with a John Deere 5205 and a Woods 84" rotary cutter at progressively lower heights (I'm now at about as low as I can get with it). This seems to have taken care of most of the more scraggly stuff (privet, nettles, etc.) that had been growing in the field. Still there's lots of thatch and the grass is not that full or green.

What should be my next steps to improve the grass?

Get a finish mower to lower/improve the cut?
Get a rake or other implement to clear some of the thatch?
Rent some sort of aerator to open up the soil?
Get a soil test and lime and/or fertilize?
Overseed?

And in what sequence should I start with any or all of the above?

I'm new to all of this, so any and all advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have a similar problem on my 10-acre place (flat, pasture land, hasn't been plowed in decades, if ever).
When the rainy season starts in Nov I'll use my 6-ft wide offset drag disk and MF-135 diesel (33 hp on the drawbar) to plow the ground. I want to plant a hay crop to replace the weeds.

Your JD 5205 is considerably more powerful than my 135, so you could consider ripping the ground with a 3 or 4-point chisel plow prior to discing.

Check out the local farm equipment auctions. You may be able to get a nice disc and plow for a few hundred bucks.

 

[dentonsisk]

Central Virginia = very acidic soil. Very.

Most farmers around here use lime only and very little nitrogen on their primarily fescue (KY-31) fields.

Burning late winter helps a little but it does leave the ground a little prone to erosion if you get strong spring rain.

I have never used lime or fertilizer on my 15 acres of field which includes river bottom (nice) and about 10 acres of the worst soil I have ever seen. Very very tight clay. I have found that a subsoiler really helps to break up the ground and has really improved my pasture. I ran it on a grid an area a little at a time. Little by little I have broken up most of it. The rain holds much better and the trees I have planted here and there are responding positively as well.

I am near Lynchburg. I just priced a load of lime and the current rate is about $38 per ton spread. The COOP says generally they will spread from betwen 2-4 tons per acre.

 

[mars1952]

I have about 15 acres of pasture/fields in central Virginia that haven't been mowed and were only minimally grazed (by horses) for many years. I've spent the past year or so cutting monthly with a John Deere 5205 and a Woods 84" rotary cutter at progressively lower heights (I'm now at about as low as I can get with it). This seems to have taken care of most of the more scraggly stuff (privet, nettles, etc.) that had been growing in the field. Still there's lots of thatch and the grass is not that full or green.

What should be my next steps to improve the grass?

Get a finish mower to lower/improve the cut?
Get a rake or other implement to clear some of the thatch?
Rent some sort of aerator to open up the soil?
Get a soil test and lime and/or fertilize?
Overseed?

And in what sequence should I start with any or all of the above?

I'm new to all of this, so any and all advice would be greatly appreciated!

As suggested by others I would add lime and maybe rock phosphate, drag a couple times and then overseed. Here in WNC the ag extension office has an overseeder that they loan out. (They are trying to encourage farmers with steep pastures not to cultivate.)
Good Luck, Marshall

 

[40_acre_mule]

Around these parts, it mostly depends on how much of a hurry you are in.
If there's no rush, then all we do is keep mowing it close several times a year. After 5 or 6 years, we've got a good stand of native grasses. The stuff that comes up voluntarily will probably be a lot hardier than non-native seed grass, especially during times of drought.
If you're in a hurry, I reckon most of the advice you've already got sounds pretty good.

 

[Glowplug]

When is the best time to overseed? Is it in the fall or spring?

My pasture currently seems to have a mixture of ryegrass, orchard grass, and WEEDS. With the later making up a considerable portion. I don't want to start over but I would like to spray for weeds, then keep it maintained (mowed) so that the grasses become better established. I would then disc it, and then overseed it with a pasture mixture of something like fescue, Timothy, and alfalfa. Something that would be good for horse foraging and hay. After overseeding I would run over it with a chain harrow.

I don't mean to hijack the thread. This point just seemed to be missing in the thread and I thought many could benefit from it.

 

[AKfish]

Lot's of well reasoned advice offered. A few options may prove to be unnecessary after you consult with your NRCS agent.

Much will depend upon how fast you'd like to get this project finished and what your final objective for the land is --- pasture, hay production, scenic meadow, etc.

Once you discuss the various options with your extension people, you may reason a whole new direction for the property.

The local office in So.Central AK has 2 different sized overseeder/no-till planters for rent. With our short growing season, you can save yourself 1-2 years getting a pasture into production by "cutting" the seed directly into the existing cover and using a broadleaf herbicide to kill the invading willows, wild roses, etc.

Keep us posted on your pasture "project". I'd like to hear what the "green thumb" folks have to say.

AKfish

 

[Z-Michigan]

My pasture currently seems to have a mixture of ryegrass, orchard grass, and WEEDS. With the later making up a considerable portion. I don't want to start over but I would like to spray for weeds, then keep it maintained (mowed) so that the grasses become better established. I would then disc it, and then overseed it with a pasture mixture of something like fescue, Timothy, and alfalfa. Something that would be good for horse foraging and hay. After overseeding I would run over it with a chain harrow.

Working on my own pastures and hayfield right now. IMHO, I think all you need to do is get someone to spray a broadleaf weed killer, then keep the pasture mowed. Around here ryegrass and orchardgrass are considered good choices for horse pasture. I know your climate is warmer than Michigan and adding fescue may be good (as long as you never plan to have pregnant mares on the pasture, or are willing to deal with all the endophyte-free hassles if you are) but I don't think it's necessary. Also, I don't think you want timothy in your pastures - it does well only in very cool, mild weather and even then is a slow growing, slow establishing grass. I know timothy is often considered excellent horse hay but although it's really palatable I think its low production is a huge drawback.

I would not plan on discing unless your spray of broadleaf weed killer fails to do the job. As for overseeding, I would see that as really optional if the weedkiller works, and my views would depend on how hot your climate is - haven't looked up what part of Kentucky you're in so I don't know if it's upland or hotter lowland. I might add fescue or another grass that performs in heat if you're in lowland. If a milder climate, I would personally just leave the existing grasses, which must be doing fairly OK.

 

[RickO]

I have about 15 acres of pasture/fields in central Virginia that haven't been mowed and were only minimally grazed (by horses) for many years. I've spent the past year or so cutting monthly with a John Deere 5205 and a Woods 84" rotary cutter at progressively lower heights (I'm now at about as low as I can get with it). This seems to have taken care of most of the more scraggly stuff (privet, nettles, etc.) that had been growing in the field. Still there's lots of thatch and the grass is not that full or green.

What should be my next steps to improve the grass?

Get a finish mower to lower/improve the cut?
Get a rake or other implement to clear some of the thatch?
Rent some sort of aerator to open up the soil?
Get a soil test and lime and/or fertilize?
Overseed?

And in what sequence should I start with any or all of the above?

I'm new to all of this, so any and all advice would be greatly appreciated!

I would spray 2-4-D to kill broadleaf. Wait 14 days for it to kill to the root, then burn it off with fire. Your grasses should come back green your weeds will not come back because they were killed to the root. Soil test is also good. But I doubt you need to add anything unless your really wanting green grass.