How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt

[radioman]

hmm -- how about this for food for thought? instead of worrying about grunt issues, how about getting a 4 wheel drive unit? If you dont need 4 wheel drive, then disconnect the front shaft. Shift in 4 lo for parades. You get all the grunt you need plus better smoother low speed in parades.

 

[JB4310]

@JB4310: Why dual tires? I've run both, and currently have single tires on my 1 ton.

With little trucks like we're talking about there's no advantage, GVW wise, in running duallies; at least not where I live. You could run two lighter(cheaper) tires, I suppose.

I agree, for the load, duals are not necessary, nor diesel.

But If you're gonna build a dedicated fifth wheel towing rig, you'd want diesel and duals IMO. If OP said just want to tow my tractor to the cabin once a month or year, it'd be a different storey.

I don't agree that duals offer no advantage GVW wise, maybe not much for CGVW, but for the rig, that's the only way to increase GVW. Changing the model number from 2500/250 to 3500/350 does nothing w/o duals.

JB.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I don't agree that duals offer no advantage GVW wise, maybe not much for CGVW, but for the rig, that's the only way to increase GVW. Changing the model number from 2500/250 to 3500/350 does nothing w/o duals.

JB.

That is not true. GM gets a 1100# increase going from 2500 to 3500 SRW. Ford gets a 1,500# increase going from 250 to 350 SRW. So yes the GVWR does get a increase. Not sure about Dodge but I am sure they get a increase also. The tow ratings or GCWR stay about the same just the payload and tongue weight get a increase.

I have never owned a Dually and never will. I drove a 4x4 GMC Dually for 2 1/2 years for work and it was the second worst thing I have ever driven in the snow and ice behind my F-150 Lightning with 500 HP.

Chris

 

[BruceWard]

Some half tons are rated for 10K trailers. If you want a daily driver than can also tow your trailer and tractors a half ton might be a better choice.

 

[crashz]

I believe that as along as you find a newer (less than 10 yrs old) truck, you'll find it has plenty of towing power. Road test it, have your mechanic give it a look and enjoy it. I think even the base engines in all of the trucks will give decent pulling power with the loads you are talking about.

The dually debate is always there. The dual wheels will sink like stones in mud and snow, but provide a comfortable towing platform on the road. I've always towed with 1 ton dumps, so I'm much more comfortable with the dually set up.

If you ever have a blow-out in rear tire, the extra one is nice to have. Gets you off the road without as much drama. I've had this happen only once, but in a bad intersection. Saved me a lot of greif being able to get the truck (loaded with asphalt) to a parking lot and out of the road.

 

[HCJtractor]

Most agree to avoid the early model Ford 6.0 diesels (say 03 to 04). Most also say the later year 6.0 Fords are much better but still an expensive engine to repair and an engine that needs careful maintenance. I have an 06 F 350 SRW and love it. When buying a used Ford, get an Oasis report from a dealer and research its repair history to get an idea of past issues. Avoid any 6.0 that has been modified to be safer.

A late model 7.3 is great if you can find a low mileage one. A V-10 would also tow your tractor just fine.

 

[schmism]

i dont understand the requirement.... you going to the drag strip or simply need to pull heavy loads.

cause if its the first then you need to concern yourself with big HP.

if its the second you need to concern yourself with gearing and know that it will just take a bit longer.

my 85 C30 dump truck (dual rear wheel) has a fairly mild SBC in it but its a 3spd with granny low. when i had a load of sand in it at 11K lbs (per the scale) even on my tired SBC i could still develop drive shaft pretzleing torque with that granny low if i dumped the clutch.

worry about the brakes before you worry about the engine. disks on all 4 corners is what your looking for.

 

[Egon]

aw heck, if it's for moving your tractors to shows get a 4x4 truck with an 12 valve in-line six. Rebuild the front end, drive line u joints etc., new brakes and lines and you have a tow truck!

 

[JB4310]

That is not true. GM gets a 1100# increase going from 2500 to 3500 SRW. Ford gets a 1,500# increase going from 250 to 350 SRW. So yes the GVWR does get a increase. Not sure about Dodge but I am sure they get a increase also. The tow ratings or GCWR stay about the same just the payload and tongue weight get a increase.

I have never owned a Dually and never will. I drove a 4x4 GMC Dually for 2 1/2 years for work and it was the second worst thing I have ever driven in the snow and ice behind my F-150 Lightning with 500 HP.

Chris

Yup I guess I'm wrong, I don't get how they do it, increase payload 1400 pounds going from 250 to srw 350 with just heavier springs/axles.
Yet only increasing payload another 1400 pounds with duals.

I consider the tires capacity the most critical spec, the tires/wheels are what are carrying the weight, but even though with duals your getting twice the weight capacity of the tires (4 wheels vs 2), your only getting a fraction of that for added payload/gvw

For OP's requirement, it's right at the border. could go either way,
gas vs diesel
3/4 ton vs 1 ton
srw vs drw
high gear vs low
auto vs manual
brand X vs brand Y vs brand Z

Maybe dualies are not the most comfortable to drive around lite, but if I'm carrying a couple tons of payload or hauling a trailer over 4-5 tons, I will be much more comfortable and confident with duals

JB

 

[Cami]

Another thought on dual tires: I'm not sure how much weight you're allowed to put on an axle with single tires where I live, but I am sure that it's far more than any one ton will ever carry.

As for automatic transmissions: I don't think a finned sump does too much good for cooling. In an oil filled sump, increasing its surface area isn't the best way to increase the heat emitted on account of a cooler, more viscous layer of oil against the relatively cool sump inhibiting heat transfer. One book I read suggested that on account of this problem, fins on the inside would be more effective than on the outside.

I don't mean to say that a finned sump is useless, just that you'll get better performance by plumbing an aftermarket transmission cooler....If you have enough in the budget for a cooler AND a finned sump, then I think you should definately buy two coolers.

As for 4x4's, I say don't get one if you don't need one! That front axle and transfer case are a lot of weight to be hauling around if you'll hardly use it.

Engine wise...sure, you don't need a diesel, but new diesels are very easy on the fuel when you consider the performance you get. As for the Ford V-10, a former boss of mine had one in his truck. It pulled nicely...he could pass anything but a gas station!