How to use cable to drag logs

[Kioti Lee]

We have been using a cable and snatch block to pull trees down a hill and cut into firewood, so much nicer than falling and cutting into firewood where they fall. Actually with all the rain and mud we get we usally do firewood in summer. (new to this tractor thing, not sure how I got by without one). We have now logged all the trees that we have room to back tractor up from block. How do we connect cable to tractor once we have gone as far as we can and then driven back to block.. Is there sometype of connector that can be placed in middle of cable? Thanks

 

[Treemonkey1000]

You don't have a u bolt or log choker

 

[bcp]

When you reach the end of the pull, back up to where you started, put another block on the tractor, tie off the end of the cable and pull again. The log will move twice as far with the same length pull. Slow down, as the log will also move twice as fast at the same tractor speed.

Or do this from the beginning if you don't need full power.

Bruce

 

[Leejohn]

There is a cable clamp that can be put anywhere on a cable, not sure what the name of them. I got mine from the iron workers and they called it a porkchop, maybe because of the shape of it.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I use chain for dragging logs behind the tractor. Hate working with cable. Unless you spend a lot of $ for fine wire flexible cable it is a "B" to work with. If using snatch blocks though you have no choice. I always use shackles on the ends or to choke around logs. The cable slides better on the steel shackle that on it's self and it will last a lot longer w/o breaking wires. Never-never choke a cable or web strap through its loop. That type connection is less than half the strength of the cable or strap and wears thekm fast. I also use shackles with web straps. On chain I choke using and open style hook on that end. On my long chain I have a seperate open hook attached several links away from the end snatch hook so I have the best of both worlds. Also I pull the cotter pins out and heat/peen the pin so it doesn't snag in my gloves. Old Construction Rigger talking here. Work Safe Please, wear gloves for any of this rigging, that has saved my hands many times. If winching lay a long rug over the cable close to where you are to prevent whip back if a break occurs. A cable under strain can take your head off.

Ron

 

[kennyd]

Wire rope or strand puller/grip:

Columbus McKinnon - Search Results for wire grip


Klein Tools -Chicago® Grip -"Type B" Strand Puller

 

[gwdixon]

Not sure if I fully understand the issue. But this device will shorten the cable to any length without causing damage. We use if for felling trees and shortening a 100 ft. cable when necessary.

A loop is formed in the cable and then wedged in the device. Then the pull is off of the pin.

They are pricey but work very well.

Cable Wedge Socket For Wire Rope Winch Cables | Truck n Tow.com

 

[GManBart]

I use chain for dragging logs behind the tractor. Hate working with cable. Unless you spend a lot of $ for fine wire flexible cable it is a "B" to work with. If using snatch blocks though you have no choice. I always use shackles on the ends or to choke around logs. The cable slides better on the steel shackle that on it's self and it will last a lot longer w/o breaking wires. Never-never choke a cable or web strap through its loop. That type connection is less than half the strength of the cable or strap and wears thekm fast. I also use shackles with web straps. On chain I choke using and open style hook on that end. On my long chain I have a seperate open hook attached several links away from the end snatch hook so I have the best of both worlds. Also I pull the cotter pins out and heat/peen the pin so it doesn't snag in my gloves. Old Construction Rigger talking here. Work Safe Please, wear gloves for any of this rigging, that has saved my hands many times. If winching lay a long rug over the cable close to where you are to prevent whip back if a break occurs. A cable under strain can take your head off.

Ron

There is a relatively new alternative to cable that works better, floats, won't rust/mildew, has zero spring back if it breaks, and works fine with snatch blocks etc. I have it on my new cable winch, and it's nice knowing that if it snaps (not too likely), it won't hurt you, or damage equipment. I switched to it after watching a cable snap, and seeing the hook end fly at least 100ft (I had it running around another tree with a snatch block)...just happy it didn't head towards me! If I recall correctly, it's a bit less expensive from Amazon.com (still not cheap, but worth it).

Winch Line, Rope, ATV winch lines, Recovery ropes, Kinetic recovery rope, Snatch ropes, Amsteel Blue

 

[lutt]

There is a relatively new alternative to cable that works better, floats, won't rust/mildew, has zero spring back if it breaks, and works fine with snatch blocks etc. I have it on my new cable winch, and it's nice knowing that if it snaps (not too likely), it won't hurt you, or damage equipment. I switched to it after watching a cable snap, and seeing the hook end fly at least 100ft (I had it running around another tree with a snatch block)...just happy it didn't head towards me! If I recall correctly, it's a bit less expensive from Amazon.com (still not cheap, but worth it).

Winch Line, Rope, ATV winch lines, Recovery ropes, Kinetic recovery rope, Snatch ropes, Amsteel Blue

I will stress it is way safer that steel.Synthetic cable is good stuff,but is not really for something he is doing. It dont take abrasion real well. We have used out here in the river industry for 20 years. A lot of my rockcrawling buddies use it on there rigs for quicker recovery times and lighter weight. They replace it quite often,you have to watch where you run it,if it is going to rub you should put something such as carpet between it and where it rubs. Sand an mud also are hard on the stuff. I have thought about putting it on my truck and jeep winches, a 8000# and 12000# warn winch respectively,but use them to much to find it cost effective. Like I said, good stuff,just wouldnt be in his application. LUTT

 

[GManBart]

I will stress it is way safer that steel.Synthetic cable is good stuff,but is not really for something he is doing. It dont take abrasion real well. We have used out here in the river industry for 20 years. A lot of my rockcrawling buddies use it on there rigs for quicker recovery times and lighter weight. They replace it quite often,you have to watch where you run it,if it is going to rub you should put something such as carpet between it and where it rubs. Sand an mud also are hard on the stuff. I have thought about putting it on my truck and jeep winches, a 8000# and 12000# warn winch respectively,but use them to much to find it cost effective. Like I said, good stuff,just wouldnt be in his application. LUTT

I'm using it for the same thing as the OP is, without any real problems. Yes, it requires a little more care, but for me, that's a fair tradeoff when you factor in the extra safety. I'm sure in a commercial operation the little bit of extra time, cost and care required wouldn't be acceptable, but for those of us who do a day here and there moving trees, I'm not sure it matters. I have a major aversion to steel cables flying at me, so I'll pay a little more, replace it more frequently, and be slightly less productive to not worry at all about it flying back at me. :thumbsup:

I will say that in one way, it's faster...you don't have to wrestle with it the way you always have to do with steel cable...not a huge deal, but a nice benefit.

 

[lutt]

I'm using it for the same thing as the OP is, without any real problems. Yes, it requires a little more care, but for me, that's a fair tradeoff when you factor in the extra safety. I'm sure in a commercial operation the little bit of extra time, cost and care required wouldn't be acceptable, but for those of us who do a day here and there moving trees, I'm not sure it matters. I have a major aversion to steel cables flying at me, so I'll pay a little more, replace it more frequently, and be slightly less productive to not worry at all about it flying back at me. :thumbsup:

I will say that in one way, it's faster...you don't have to wrestle with it the way you always have to do with steel cable...not a huge deal, but a nice benefit.

Cool. I may need to break down and put it on the truck,100' feet of 3/8" cable is a lot of weight when added to the winch carrier and winch on the front of the truck. Like we say,the saftey factor is over the top. Thanks,LUTT

 

[turnkey4099]

Yep, thems the the thingies. I often wished I had one but never bothered to get one. Put it on the cable at any point in the run.

Harry K

 

[Kioti Lee]

Sorry for the late response, computer issues . There are acouple of links that I think will solve my issue. THANKS

 

[DickThomas]

I'll pass on a tip my dad gave me 60 years ago: DO NOT EVER!!! use cable to snake logs. Use chain. Because it stretches only a few thousandths inch per link, it doesn't store large amounts of energy; If a chain breaks, it recoils a short way and drops slack. Cable may stretch several inches, storing thousands of foot-pounds of energy. Cable recoils like a bullwhip. In his teens, dad saw a man cut in half by a recoiling cable which snapped under the pull of a 4-hitch team of Belgian draft horses. Even a small CUT has more that sufficient drawbar pull to suddenly snap a cable if a log catches wrong. A cable large enough to be 'safe' will be too large in diameter to handle.
Another item: Have you ever watched a tow truck operator use winches & cables to draw a car onto a flatbed? Where does he stand? Way off to the side, using a remote control, in case the cable snaps. Now compare that with where YOU are sitting when towing a log - or anything, with a cable: Yep, dead straight in-line of possible cable snap. Dead being the operative word here.

A word to the wise.

 

[puckgrinder85]

Cut in half? Sorry, sounds like and old wives tale to scare you into teaching you where you need to stand. I dont blame him, i just dont believe it. Even mythbusters did a segment on breaking cable. It could kill you no doubt.

 

[Kioti Lee]

I am running the cable thru a snatch block so I am not in a direct line where it is most likely to break. I have broke a cable on my winch before and it sure does snap back. It is also very hard to drag 200 ft of chain around. Agree caution is required, but not always able to avoid cable

 

[roger4400]

Hi. My friend Albert used a nylon cable because his chain was too short.He was pulling with his tractor and somehow the chain unhooked from the log and the cable had stretch so it came back right to his face with the chain to its end. He was bleeding a lot and went to his neighbor house (closer) , when his neighbor's wife answered she fainted. My friend was trying to talk but only strange noises were coming from his mouth, his jaw was broken and half his face was out from the skull, and his eye was down in the middle of his face. He lost his eye and had a face reconstruction....he could die and this is not a tale, it is true. So if for any reason you have to use a rope, put a heavy cloth ( an old winter coat ) in the middle so the rope will stop from coming to you . A chain is a lot safer and a logging winch and a snatch pulley are a lot better, they are made for that.Good luck be safe not sorry. Roger

 

[murphy1244]

I have heard some use a tire.

 

[bcp]

I have heard some use a tire.

Lots of tires on cables in this video:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/271506-excavator-stuck-since-1992-a.html

Bruce

 

[Chilly807]

We stopped using the Amsteel blue synthetic cable at work, the riggers discovered that if you put a tight bend in it it rapidly weakens it to the point where there is no safety margin anymore. It'll break very close to it's rated working load, which is a LOT less than the safety factor we require.

I use a logging winch these days, got tired of fiddling with long cables and chains, nylon rope and snatch blocks. Some of the best money I've ever spent.

Sean