How would you do this?

   / How would you do this?
  • Thread Starter
#21  
They sell a bit called a nail eater bit but you will need a file to sharpen it every once in a while
See Post #6. Already tried that. Got through one nail in one hole successfully, but the bit was pretty much destroyed in the process. Nothing left to sharpen or dress up. The whole cutting edge was simply gone. I guess these are unusually hard nails in this deck.

Rusty
 
   / How would you do this?
  • Thread Starter
#23  
The latter (1/2" installer drill bit) is identical to what I'd been using prior to my OP. It goes through the wood okay... stops dead at the nails.

A brad point twist drill bit might have worked better, but only if seriously hardened (e.g., cobalt or titanium-treated). Couldn't find one locally that was long enough.

I don't know if a brad point black oxide drill bit alone would have made much difference.

Rusty
 
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   / How would you do this?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
If you have an impact wrench you might try driving a lag bolt first, then drill. This could move things (nails) enough for you.
Hard to believe SK, but no luck with your most excellent idea. I am in shock. I would have bet my life that this approach would have broken through.

The problem seems to be that the worst nails I'm hitting are exactly 8" back, meaning I need to use a 10" long lag bolt to reach them. Around here, that means a 1/2" diameter lag bolt and it is apparently hitting those pesky nails dead nuts on - hence, no progress. If I could only find a 1/4" or 3/8" lag bolt 10" long, I think it would have worked.

On to the 3/4" solution... my last hope.

Rusty
 
   / How would you do this? #25  
did you try a carbide bit ( masonry )
 
   / How would you do this?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
did you try a carbide bit ( masonry )
Back before I even posted, all the local "experts" I spoke with had totally diss'd the idea of trying a carbide masonry bit and hammer drill. Their reasons why it couldn't or wouldn't work could fill a book. I don't own one, but I could have rented one with a carbide bit to try for chump change. But I was warned against it, even by the rental folks themselves. Go figure.

I'm willing to give just about anything a try at this point. I already did pickup some new things to try this weekend (See Post #19). Perhaps I'll finally get lucky and end this madness.

Rusty
 
   / How would you do this? #27  
i've drilled out dozens of BOLTS that broke off in tractors using a masonry carbide bits. I got more holes out of a carbide's than I did from the TIN HSS bits or a lefty bit, before they dulled.

most of the bolts I drilled out wwere semi-hard gr5.. some were plain gr2

( one tractor had nearly 100 broke fasteners on it. I drilled bolts for a couple weeks! )

i don't know how the carbid bit will work with wood.. but I can't see it have a problem with a steel common nail?
 
   / How would you do this?
  • Thread Starter
#28  
i've drilled out dozens of BOLTS that broke off in tractors using a masonry carbide bits. I got more holes out of a carbide's than I did from the TIN HSS bits or a lefty bit, before they dulled.

most of the bolts I drilled out were semi-hard gr5.. some were plain gr2

( one tractor had nearly 100 broke fasteners on it. I drilled bolts for a couple weeks! )

i don't know how the carbide bit will work with wood.. but I can't see it have a problem with a steel common nail?
I don't doubt anything you're saying. It was my very first thought (after I had run into trouble with the installer bit) that a hammer drill with any sort of hardened drill bit would blast through those nails like butter. Then the "experts" one-by-one talked me out of it. I was not only willing to rent a hammer drill and bit, but I was willing to buy one given that I've got some concrete drilling work to do in a couple months.

So maybe it would have been a good approach after all. At this point, I'm all set to try the 3/4" drill bit and hole saw solution. The weak link here is the 12" long 1/4" diameter extension rod that I'll have to use. If that doesn't work (and it might not), my "experts" be damned, I'll try your hammer drill with carbide bit solution.

Thanks for your input.

Rusty
 
   / How would you do this? #29  
What if after hitting a nail move the hole over an inch or two and try another hole. It isn't likely they nail that close together. If that fails you could weld a 1/2" rod to a highspeed bit for an extension and gring it smooth. Good luck! JP
 
   / How would you do this?
  • Thread Starter
#30  
What if after hitting a nail move the hole over an inch or two and try another hole. It isn't likely they nail that close together.
The bolt holes need to be centered on both the lower and upper posts to do any good. Moving over an inch would weaken those decorative upper rail posts to the point where they would be useless. Vertically, they are already as far apart as I dare put them. Closer together would mean a weaker rail post.
If that fails you could weld a 1/2" rod to a high speed bit for an extension and grind it smooth. Good luck! JP
Already have that essentially with my black oxide installer drill... but yes, a longer cobalt or titanium-coated drill might have been helpful.

Rusty
 

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