Grading How would you fix this road?? (w/pics)

[Egon]

If you upset those big rocks you will need 12" of 1" gravel the entire length of your drive. DON"T DO THAT.!!

Isn't the OP object to remove the rocks?

Why would 12 inches of 1 inch gravel be required?
Are you talking pit run or crushed material that has fractured surfaces and is properly graded for compaction?

 

[jenkinsph]

Steve...Don't you think he would run the risk of coming up too low if he removes the large rocks.??

I would only remove the largest rocks that would not push down into the surface, he has alot of rock that is baseball sized that I would leave.

That is a typical primitive road for this area, not enough 3/4" to fines hauled in to make a smooth base. He surely needs more clean base to work with and a thin layer of clean gravel about one rock high on top.

 

[jenkinsph]

Judging by the pics, I don't think I see any fines, really. Looks like a pretty hard-packed road bed with a lot of larger limerock rocks mixed in. Seems any attempt to drag fines (if there are any) would dislodge the big rocks, not the best thing, to me.

You make a good point there, if he has alot of large rock buried below the surface it would be better to haul in more 3/4 to fines. Might need 100 yds instead of 50 yds.

Really need to walk a road like this to see what to do. It looks to me to be spread out towards the sides. I would prefer to define the edge more distinctly and narrow the road a bit. Then lay down the material in a smaller width.

 

[sms0000]

I appreciate all the replies. Keep in mind, however, that this is in central Texas. We don't use "gravel" down here for roads. This is crushed limestone. There's no "big rock" base of any kind. There are some "bigger" rocks in the road, but they're not part of any "base," they're just "bigger rocks."

Some of you people are posting from as far away as Canada. I appreciate your input, but your roadbuilding approach is totally, totally different from what we have down here.

Thanks,
Ruark

I use crushed limestone for my driveways......I call it "gravel" (generic term) even though "real gravel" is not crushed limestone. In fact I live 45mins for the "Limestone City". Anything other than dirt ......ie. rock/gravel/crushed limestone is a "base" for your driveway. Good Luck.

 

[jenkinsph]

I appreciate all the replies. Keep in mind, however, that this is in central Texas. We don't use "gravel" down here for roads. This is crushed limestone. There's no "big rock" base of any kind. There are some "bigger" rocks in the road, but they're not part of any "base," they're just "bigger rocks."

Some of you people are posting from as far away as Canada. I appreciate your input, but your roadbuilding approach is totally, totally different from what we have down here.

Thanks,
Ruark

I still think if you pull in the materials from the edges and then put down more base course (3/4" to fines) you will be in the best position. Eastern New Mexico is not that different from Texas. I suspect the reason the road did not hold up with the traffic is because there was not enough basecourse in place to start with. I had a neighbor who was a state highway superintendent show me that good crusher rock should have about five faces on it to lock down and form a good road base. Fractured rock or limestone with 3/4" to fines should all perform the same basic function. You just need more of it. On top I like a thin layer of gravel or limestone either one that is clean or devoid of fines about one rock high, any more than that and the car tires will plow through it leaveing tracks.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

This is a perfect example of geography making a difference...here in southern Appalachia...if you try to add new gravel on top of tightly compacted surface...the new gravel will migrate off the compacted surface in a very short time...
The same thing goes with pot holes etc...just filling a pot hole with gravel (even with fines) will just wash out after a few storms and traffic...to effectively resurface or make a repair the compacted substrate must be scarified then topped off with the new material like crusher run etc...

Sounds just like Maine to me...northern Appalachia.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

I still think if you pull in the materials from the edges and then put down more base course (3/4" to fines) you will be in the best position. Eastern New Mexico is not that different from Texas. I suspect the reason the road did not hold up with the traffic is because there was not enough basecourse in place to start with. I had a neighbor who was a state highway superintendent show me that good crusher rock should have about five faces on it to lock down and form a good road base. Fractured rock or limestone with 3/4" to fines should all perform the same basic function. You just need more of it. On top I like a thin layer of gravel or limestone either one that is clean or devoid of fines about one rock high, any more than that and the car tires will plow through it leaveing tracks.

Agree with this whole heartedly.

 

[wade simpson]

Hi Ruark

I have a similar problem on my road. It all glaicial till, full of rocks of all sizes. I used a backblade to dig the ditches but found it didn't do much on the road to dig out the bigger rocks. The box blade scarifiers did an excellent job. I dug up rocks as big as my head and bigger. I have to stop a lot to get them out of the way but after a few passes it had pretty much cleared the bigger rocks and the road was fairly smooth. I've been working on my road all summer

My road is about 0.4 kms long with a steep hill, soft and hard areas. My tractor is a 20 hp kioti, with a 5 ft box blade and a 5 ft back blade.

 

[Egon]

Some of you people are posting from as far away as Canada. I appreciate your input, but your roadbuilding approach is totally, totally different from what we have down here.

There are a lot of similarities world wide when using a granular material for road building.

 

[Gittyup]

I think I'd take your rake an pull material from the sides first just see how much is on the sides, and what it might do for you by way of covering up the big rocks.

My first reaction is that you shouldn't disturb that base. It's really a pretty good road from what I can tell. If you do decide to tear into it, I'd only remove the big rock (bigger than a softball). From the photos, all the rocks look smaller than that.

Anyway you go about it, you need more fine base (unless it's all on the sides). You either have to add enough to bury the big rocks sufficiently, or add enough to fill the holes left from removing the big rocks plus you still need the fines topping.

Since you have a rake, get the boxblade. Keep an eye out for a used backblade. Sooner or later you're gonna want one for ditching and grooming.