HST driving tip needed

KentT · May 4, 2006

I agree with MossRoad completely -- don't even use the brake -- in fact, break yourself of that habit...

On my HST Allis-Chalmers (not my PowerTrac with a treadle) I never use the brake except as a parking brake. The HST will essentially serve as 4-wheel brakes, assuming you're in 4WD at the time...

Let off the forward before you get to where you're going and allow it to roll forward while you prepare to give it a nudge toward reverse to hold it. Once dumped, give it more reverse to back out... IMO, you can maneuver an HST much more precisely this way than you can a gear tractor, and I've seen no detrimental side effects in using reverse for a brake for short intervals....

I suggest that you practice this with lighter loads in the bucket, however, until you get used to it.. You don't want a sudden reverse movement with a loaded bucket up in the air...

daTeacha · May 4, 2006

Beenthere -- doing things suddenly is very spooky in this situation with this tractor/load/counterweight setup. When the bucket is up high enough to dump the rocks on the pile -- about 3 or 4 feet -- it is also at maximum forward reach. Even starting to dump it gets interesting as the C/G moves forward with the motion of the bucket. It is noticeably more stable with the bucket fully rolled back, but that doesn't solve the problem of unloading it. This is serious drawback of the current design CNH loader from my perspective. At just above axle height the bucket is as far in front of the front wheels as the rear tires are behind it.

I wasn't too concerned about standing the thing on it's nose since the rock pile was just under the bucket. Worst case would have been lifting the rears a little until the bucket contacted the pile. I just want to avoid it in other situations.

Next time I do this I'll try the technique of slowly approaching the dump site and letting it roll the last bit while putting increasing pressure on the back of the treadle. This will take practice since any sudden change in direction of either the tractor or heavily loaded bucket tends to feel exciting from the seat.

The thing that gets me is the piece of ground just doesn't seem very steep when I'm walking on it. When I look at the little drop off the side of the gravel and the 3 or so to 12 slant of the yard at that point, it just seems silly to think it's enough to make a 4400 lb rig get that spooky. But then again, a rear tire in the air is hard to argue with.

Thanks for all your suggestions, guys. I knew there was a way to make it work. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

kevincook · May 4, 2006

It was already mentioned but I want to emphasize the need to be in four wheel drive when you are driving down a hill with your loader. The HST will work as a brake and your front wheels will be doing most of the braking. Your rear wheels will have very little pressure on them and can skid down the hill relatively easily.

When I am trying to dump a load facing down a hill I will keep the bucket low to the ground and let it push into the dump pile. I will then start dumping as I raise the loader. This way the loader is in contact with the ground the entire time and my stability is much better.

Kevin

3RRL · May 4, 2006

Hey Rich,
( This is serious drawback of the current design CNH loader from my perspective. At just above axle height the bucket is as far in front of the front wheels as the rear tires are behind it.)
I'm surprised, as thorough as youv'e been in your selection... that this and the pedal configuration are not to your liking? Sounds like you might be a little bummed out?

KiotiJohn · May 4, 2006

I thought you must have two pedals when you first posted. The treadle on my tractor is very easy to operate f/r quickly, and I'm sure yours is also. If that slope is steep enough, the HST can creep forward in neutral so you shouldn't have any problem having your foot in position to reverse as you glide to the stopping spot.

When you're ready for it to stop, you'll just start pressing toward reverse.

The only thing you'll notice is that the hydraulics may heat up a bit more if you are holding yourself on the slope with reverse. That shouldn't be a problem, but you may want to take a cool down once-in-a-while if you've been making a lot of trips and holding on the slope.
John

MossRoad · May 4, 2006

Did you ever see that link to the tractor roll over test videos that someone posted on TBN a while back? They were a real eye opener and it really didn't take much to roll that thing over.

I found it, but the link was no good any more. I then searched google for umbilical+tractor and got the following good link.
http://www.mne.psu.edu/sommer/projects/tractor/tractorFY1/

Watch the videos, imagine you are in the seat of that thing, then change your shorts! It doesn't take long. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

gbick · May 4, 2006

When I went tractor shopping to replace my 1952 Farmall Super C / Johnson loader with a more modern version (4wd, power steering, down pressure, etc.) I went to the Kubota dealer to see what they had in the 30ish hp range. Hydrostatic trans was a must, as I had just had knee surgery. Well he understood me completely and showed me exactly the tractor I had described. While sitting on the orange beauty, I could imagine blasting through snow that would mire the Farmall. Then I looked down and couldn't believe my eyes. The turning brakes are on the same side as the hydro pedal !! I WOULD NEED TWO RIGHT FEET!!! When I asked the salesman how you could possibly use the turning brakes in this configuration, he muttered something about not needing brakes with hydro. As the tractor is primarily a snowmover, functional turning brakes are manditory. So down the road I go to the Green&Yellow place. Looked at a 4310ehydro and you can bet the first thing I checked was the pedal arrangement. Ah, brakes on left, go pedals on right- the world isn't totally absurd. I wonder how many sales have been lost to this silly feature alone. I know Kubota builds fine equipment, but they need to address this foolishness Ok, my rant is over. I wasn't concerned about the treadle/twin pedal difference and could have adapted to either, but after using the JD two pedal I can't imagine a better setup.

KiotiJohn · May 4, 2006

( As the tractor is primarily a snowmover, functional turning brakes are manditory. )
I can't imagine why this would be true, but I'll take your word for it. I don't have to do snow, so I don't know, but I've never seen a time when I "NEEDED" my brakes except when on a good slope to avoid a little creeping in HST neutral.

I'm very happy to not need much braking. I can turn so quickly with about two f/r moves that the brake turning has never been needed.

I guess snow plowing is a different story.
John

gbick · May 4, 2006

When pushing snow, especially over an icy base, the tractor will slide to the downhill side, even with very little slope. Also many times when I have a good push going the front tires are off the ground and the brakes are the only steering I have.

KiotiJohn · May 4, 2006

Thanks Greg, that explains it very well, and I can see how you would need to brake steer. Another great reason I'm happy to live in a snow-free environment.
John