HST Issue

[cutthroat]

So out of the blue, my HST isn't working correctly. Misbehaves with and without linked pedal enabled. When I press the forward pedal, tractor starts moving, sometime slower than it should, then jerks and starts moving faster. Sometimes, no matter how far I push the pedal it will only move at a slower rate than the pedal should be dictating. When I let go of the forward pedal, tractor keeps moving for about 10-15 feet then jerks to a stop. Reverse behaves same way. I've tried adjusting the knob to adjust the rate at which it changes direction and doesn't help. Thoughts?

Thanks

-Craig

 

[Cthomp55]

Craig I went though this same thing last week.. Dealer tried recalibration time and time again. Tractor went back to the dealer and a wire was unplugged. Check under the tractor and make sure everything is plugged up..

Caleb

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/379809-nx5510-hst-question.html

 

[cutthroat]

Thanks. I have checked all the wire connections I can find like 3-4 times and can't see anything lose. Additional testing did indicate it is only happening on forward, reverse is fine. Guess will have to take into dealer.

-Craig

 

[Cthomp55]

Craig, perhaps "calibrate" the HST...

 

[cutthroat]

Do you have this process? Not really detailed anywhere I can find.

 

[DieselBound]

Calibration process as gleaned from the service manual. I take no responsibility for the accuracy here (I don't have access to any updates to the manual, in which case if there are any updates they are not reflected here).

Calibration mode activation

• With the brake pedal depressed, press the CAL
switch and hold the ignition switch in the ON posi-
tion for approx. 2 seconds to enter the calibration
mode.

• The lamps come on in the following order: N->L->N
->M->N->H->N->L->N->M->N->H->N. Then, the “N”
lamp comes on.

Remark
• If the calibration mode is abnormally activated,
the lamp “N” comes on.

Upper limit setting for forward/
reverse driving pedal

• Check the upper limit of the forward/reverse driv-
ing pedal. With the pedal released, press the “NO
STALL” switch (1) to the ON position and set the
cruise switch (2) to the ON position once.

• The “N” lamp (1) goes off and the “CAL” lamp (2)
comes on.

Remark
• If the limit is correctly set, the “N” lamp goes off
and then the “CAL” lamp comes on.
• If incorrectly set, the cruise lamp blinks.

Lower limit setting for forward/
reverse driving pedal

• With the forward/reverse driving pedal depressed to
its deepest position, place the speed limit switch
to the ON position and set the cruise switch to
the ON position once.

• The “CAL” lamp goes off and the “N” lamp
comes on.

Remark
• If the limit is correctly set, the “N” lamp goes off
and then the “CAL” lamp comes on.
• If incorrectly set, the cruise lamp blinks.

Finishing setting

• After performing the steps described above, make
sure to set the speed limit switch (1) to the OFF po-
sition and turn the ignition switch to the OFF posi-
tion to complete the calibration.

 

[cutthroat]

Thanks. So I have the Workshop manual, I guess this is different than the Service manual? I looked in the Workshop manual and couldn't find this procedure. Maybe I was looking in the wrong area.

-Craig

 

[DieselBound]

Craig, same thing, "Workshop Manual." I used a generic label/name for it.

Section 9.1.1 (it took me quite a while to find it)

If I'd known that you had the manual it would have saved me a lot of cutting and pasting But... it's now here for anyone who doesn't have the manual.

 

[DieselBound]

If recalibrating doesn't work then perhaps it's got something to do with the "Forward" travel pedal solenoid. There's one for Forward and one for Reverse and they're both down under the floor. I'd check the connections there: wouldn't hurt taking the apart, cleaning and then applying some dialectic grease.

 

[kthompson]

I have a small Kubota with hst and it will act like this when roading if running low rpms and really does when the grade changes even a little. By low rpms it hits 540 rpm I think about 2500 engine rpms but if driving on road running less than about 2,000 engine rpms if in high range and pedal is fully depressed my will act as you described, does not the run on after releasing the pedal and that to me might be a different issue.

 

[cutthroat]

Thanks for the instructions. The first and second steps work as described in the instructions, entering Calibrate Mode, and setting Upper Limit, but I can't get the Lower limit to work like the instructions state. The CAL Light is suppose to go off and N light come on when pressing the Cruise Switch. On my tractor, the CAL light goes off while the Cruise Switch is pressed, but comes back on when Cruise Switch not pressed. Talked to my dealer. He thinks the potentiometer for the forward pedal is bad and is ordering a replacement.

-Craig

 

[cutthroat]

So tractor is fixed... for now. Dealer came out last week and replaced the potentiometer. This didn't fix the problem. I immediatly loaded it up on my trailer and took it to him about 1.5 hours away. Unloading it from the trailer and it is working. So something about the ride fixed it. We both thought must be something loose. I asked him to do the 200 hours maintenance and to also check everything for a loose connection. He dropped it back off at my house today and all is still working. So hopefully, it doesn't decide to break again, because not sure what was actually at fault. During this almost three weeks of downtime I did a lot of research of other tractors. I might be trading it for something else before the year is out. Just don't have a good feeling in the long haul this tractor is going to be reliable.

-Craig

 

[DieselBound]

Not uncommon for new stuff to have issues. I battled with a washing machine early on in its life and was about ready to toss it out. After several fixes (electronics), covered by the manufacturer (I provided some free labor because it simplified things- I'm able to work on most anything, or so I think:laughing its been running perfectly well for over a decade now: the thought of problems with it are completely out of my mind.

I agree, it's not comforting to not know what fixed something. I know that I'd be looking to unplug all the electrical connectors that might be associated with any of this and dab some dialectic grease in them and reconnect. I'd been battling some electrical connection issues with a car headlight and, despite my doubts, dabbing some dialectic grease on the connector reconnecting it hasn't flaked out: keep in mind that I'd already done this; I replaced the connector because it got semi-fried. I still suspect that the new housing that I got is slightly out of spec, but, if what I did holds then it's pretty moot. Sometimes you have to just get over the mental trauma; it's NOT easy!

I've got 120 hours on my NX and, after ironing out some initial issues (none electrical), everything has worked perfectly well.

Don't want to alarm the overly sensitive folks around here, but I'd beat the snot out of the tractor (operate it to the full max, take off the kid gloves) and make it prove whether it's able to hold up or not. I'm pretty certain that if anything was likely to break on my tractor that it would have done so by now: I've hauled, pushed, mowed, lifted and generally exercised/used the heck out of it (because that's why I got it!) and zero signs of it not being up to my tasks.

Here's my frame of though on things... I am my own water treatment engineer and operator (I resurrected my well; flushed, scrubbed; installed new pump and all associated bits; designed everything; installed everything [used existing pressure tank though]). I run water samples through a local lab. Their instructions tend to want you to set up the perfect scenario for taking water samples. Pooey! I walk into my master bathroom, turn on my sink faucet and after a few seconds grab a sample. I do this because I walk into my master bathroom, turn on the faucet and then after only a few seconds DRINK straight from it! That's what I want. (with the exception of a faucet coming from the pump house that's only for outside watering, ALL faucets provide potable water) If the results from the lab tests indicate that I ought not do that then I'm going to FIX my water so that I CAN do that!