HST Issue

[cutthroat]

Thanks for the instructions. The first and second steps work as described in the instructions, entering Calibrate Mode, and setting Upper Limit, but I can't get the Lower limit to work like the instructions state. The CAL Light is suppose to go off and N light come on when pressing the Cruise Switch. On my tractor, the CAL light goes off while the Cruise Switch is pressed, but comes back on when Cruise Switch not pressed. Talked to my dealer. He thinks the potentiometer for the forward pedal is bad and is ordering a replacement.

-Craig

 

[cutthroat]

So tractor is fixed... for now. Dealer came out last week and replaced the potentiometer. This didn't fix the problem. I immediatly loaded it up on my trailer and took it to him about 1.5 hours away. Unloading it from the trailer and it is working. So something about the ride fixed it. We both thought must be something loose. I asked him to do the 200 hours maintenance and to also check everything for a loose connection. He dropped it back off at my house today and all is still working. So hopefully, it doesn't decide to break again, because not sure what was actually at fault. During this almost three weeks of downtime I did a lot of research of other tractors. I might be trading it for something else before the year is out. Just don't have a good feeling in the long haul this tractor is going to be reliable.

-Craig

 

[DieselBound]

Not uncommon for new stuff to have issues. I battled with a washing machine early on in its life and was about ready to toss it out. After several fixes (electronics), covered by the manufacturer (I provided some free labor because it simplified things- I'm able to work on most anything, or so I think:laughing its been running perfectly well for over a decade now: the thought of problems with it are completely out of my mind.

I agree, it's not comforting to not know what fixed something. I know that I'd be looking to unplug all the electrical connectors that might be associated with any of this and dab some dialectic grease in them and reconnect. I'd been battling some electrical connection issues with a car headlight and, despite my doubts, dabbing some dialectic grease on the connector reconnecting it hasn't flaked out: keep in mind that I'd already done this; I replaced the connector because it got semi-fried. I still suspect that the new housing that I got is slightly out of spec, but, if what I did holds then it's pretty moot. Sometimes you have to just get over the mental trauma; it's NOT easy!

I've got 120 hours on my NX and, after ironing out some initial issues (none electrical), everything has worked perfectly well.

Don't want to alarm the overly sensitive folks around here, but I'd beat the snot out of the tractor (operate it to the full max, take off the kid gloves) and make it prove whether it's able to hold up or not. I'm pretty certain that if anything was likely to break on my tractor that it would have done so by now: I've hauled, pushed, mowed, lifted and generally exercised/used the heck out of it (because that's why I got it!) and zero signs of it not being up to my tasks.

Here's my frame of though on things... I am my own water treatment engineer and operator (I resurrected my well; flushed, scrubbed; installed new pump and all associated bits; designed everything; installed everything [used existing pressure tank though]). I run water samples through a local lab. Their instructions tend to want you to set up the perfect scenario for taking water samples. Pooey! I walk into my master bathroom, turn on my sink faucet and after a few seconds grab a sample. I do this because I walk into my master bathroom, turn on the faucet and then after only a few seconds DRINK straight from it! That's what I want. (with the exception of a faucet coming from the pump house that's only for outside watering, ALL faucets provide potable water) If the results from the lab tests indicate that I ought not do that then I'm going to FIX my water so that I CAN do that!