HST pedal not returning to neutral

[Mosey]

Interesting! Now I'm curious to find out if mine is not adjusted right and maybe the shock doesn't pull back on the pedal hard enough when the pedal is almost, but not quite, back to neutral. The inlaws are coming this weekend to watch the kids while my wife and I head out for a weekend escape, so I may not get a chance to look into this until next week. I'm sure hoping this has been my problem all along though!

 

[Steelfan]

Thanks Deepsnow,

That was a great explaination. I'm going to work on it this afternoon.

Kent

 

[Bayrat]

My TC 29 did the same thing, crept forward unless you tapped the pedal in reverse to stop it. I did get it pretty much adjusted out.

 

[Mosey]

I finally got around to trying this adjustment, but it didn't help at all. If I turned it too far (2 turns on the shaft of the positioning shock), then it would creep backwards when I wasn't even touching the pedal. So, I just put it back to where it was to start with. Here is a picture of the shock.

 

[iamgott]

Im really not familiar with New Holland machines, but My JD 4300 Hydro is really touchy on the pedal "linkage" adjustments. It took me at least an hour and several test drives to get it "centered" properly. Until then, I had the same problem, creeping forward or back depending on the adjustment. This only occurred after my machine had been in service for a defective damper, and this was the way it was returned to me. To avoid trailering it down and dropping it off, I decided to try and remedy it myself. It turned out to be a pretty tedious job. I hope yours is something this simple, although somewhat of a pain, at least its not a major defect. Take care and good luck,,,,,,,,,,gott

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Not sure on your machine but some of these things are pretty sensitive it only takes about 1/4 to 1/2 turn to get it set right. Anymore and you're going the other direction.

 

[MikePA]

Danny, what is involved in taking the panels underneath the steering wheel to gain access to the shock?

 

[Mosey]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Danny, what is involved in taking the panels underneath the steering wheel to gain access to the shock? )</font>

It's pretty easy Mike. Open the hood and there are 2 bolts at the front of the panel. There are 2 more bolts right underneath the steering column. The panel will come right off after taking those 4 bolts out. Only the right side needs to come off to get to the hydro positioning shock. It helps to fold the floormat back (curl it back so the hydro pedal will hold it out of the way). The key switch needs to be removed to get the panel completely off and out of the way - just take the nut off and the switch will come right out, mine was only finger tight. If you take the top boot off the shock, make sure you put the clamp back on without the prongs sticking out towards the back or they'll get in the way of putting the panel back on.

I'm wondering if that nut on top is more than just a lock nut. Maybe it's a tension adjustment? Maybe my shock is not strong enough and that would make it pull harder? Does anyone have a service manual? I really only have a problem before it's warmed up, the first 15 minutes or so it takes about 3 seconds to stop, even going up hill. After it warms up, it's not too bad.

 

[MLB]

Would this procedure be the same on my 33D?

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> Would this procedure be the same on my 33D? </font>
Yes. The TC25, 29 and 33 are all Class II Boomers.