Husky chainsaws

[newbury]

I致e used both and I prefer Husqvarna. I think most Stihl people are wearing blinders. I致e had multiple people that wouldn稚 acknowledge my 372XP cuts faster than their 10-20 cc less Stihl saw.

Your 372XP is 71CC, are you saying it cuts faster than a 60 to 50CC Stihl? or did you mean 10-20 cc bigger Stihl?

That's a good possibility. Breaking down under heat is a common failure mode for the ignition module, only to have it work just fine when it cools back off.

Another possibility is vapor lock: if it is exposed to too much heat, the fuel vaporizes in the fuel line (or some other place where it's supposed to still be liquid). Often, this won't happen while the saw is running, since the constant flow of fuel brings in fresh, cooler fuel to the area before it has a chance to warm up and vaporize. When you shut down a saw that has been working hard, the heat can soak into parts of the fuel line, vaporizing it and making the saw hard to start.

One thing you can try to help vapor lock: after working the saw hard, try letting it idle a bit, or run under light loads before shutting down. This will allow the saw to cool a bit before shutting down & stopping the flow of fresh fuel to hot areas.
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I used to do a bit of chain saw milling (CSM) with both my Stihl 660's (one at a time). Cutting 20" wide logs 12' long into 1 to 2 inch slices heats a saw up.



Never had a problem starting them back up after a break but always let them idle down a bit after i pulled them out of a cut. I try and do that with all my petrol engines.

My first Stihl was an 021, it replaced a buck saw. I read the manual for starting it, full choke, pull till it pops (usually 2 to 4 pulls unless it's been sitting for months), half choke and it fires. It's been that way since about 1990 when I bought it. So I always treated my 660's and 088 the same way.

The only time I had a "major" starting problem was back about 2010. I was laid up with a back injury and the saws set with ethanol ladened gas for about 6 months before I could get to them. All my saws (2 Stihls, an Efco and a JD) were non-starters. I added Sea Foam to fresh fuel and let it work through, giving each saw several pulls a day. It took a while but it cleaned out all the fuel lines and they have all run well since. I probably should replace all the fuel lines, but Sea Foam has been easier.

 

[4570Man]

Your 372XP is 71CC, are you saying it cuts faster than a 60 to 50CC Stihl? or did you mean 10-20 cc bigger Stihl?


I used to do a bit of chain saw milling (CSM) with both my Stihl 660's (one at a time). Cutting 20" wide logs 12' long into 1 to 2 inch slices heats a saw up.

View attachment 578368

Never had a problem starting them back up after a break but always let them idle down a bit after i pulled them out of a cut. I try and do that with all my petrol engines.

My first Stihl was an 021, it replaced a buck saw. I read the manual for starting it, full choke, pull till it pops (usually 2 to 4 pulls unless it's been sitting for months), half choke and it fires. It's been that way since about 1990 when I bought it. So I always treated my 660's and 088 the same way.

The only time I had a "major" starting problem was back about 2010. I was laid up with a back injury and the saws set with ethanol ladened gas for about 6 months before I could get to them. All my saws (2 Stihls, an Efco and a JD) were non-starters. I added Sea Foam to fresh fuel and let it work through, giving each saw several pulls a day. It took a while but it cleaned out all the fuel lines and they have all run well since. I probably should replace all the fuel lines, but Sea Foam has been easier.

I’m saying it cuts faster, but it was a ridiculous comparison. I had a die hard Stihl fan bet me $100 his 60cc saw wood cut faster. Surprisingly he never showed up. I’ve had multiple people try to out cut it with a farm boss. Of course they loose.

 

[John_Mc]

I used to do a bit of chain saw milling (CSM) with both my Stihl 660's (one at a time). Cutting 20" wide logs 12' long into 1 to 2 inch slices heats a saw up.

Never had a problem starting them back up after a break but always let them idle down a bit after i pulled them out of a cut. I try and do that with all my petrol engines.

Some saws are more susceptible to this than others. I suspect at least some of it may have to do with how the fuel lines are routed. I can cut hard all day with my Husky 357XP and it never has a problem restarting after a shutdown, whether I let it idle down a bit after cutting or not. My Jonsered 2152 (twin sister to a Husky 353 - both pro-type construction at a "semi-pro" price) had the problem. If I was cutting up hardwood firewood, making cut after cut without much break in between, I'd have trouble restarting it after a short break. In fact, sometimes if I were really working it hard, it would die when I let it drop back to idle between cuts. Richening the mix slightly helped a bit. What finally cured the problem permanently was removing the catalytic muffler (which is greatly restricted, causing the saw to run hotter) and replacing it with a non-cat version. It required a re-tune of the mixture, but it completely cured the hot re-starting problem. It also gave the saw just a bit more power as well.

 

[4570Man]

I have a 353 that’s probably 15 years old. Does it have a cat muffler?

 

[newbury]

I知 saying it cuts faster, but it was a ridiculous comparison. I had a die hard Stihl fan bet me $100 his 60cc saw wood cut faster. Surprisingly he never showed up. I致e had multiple people try to out cut it with a farm boss. Of course they loose.

60cc vs 70cc? 50cc Farmboss vs 70cc? Yeah. I'd say they they had some loose marbles. Or did you mean they lost?

There's no replacement for displacement.

 

[Oldpath05]

The best thing I like about my 5 year old 550xp is the bar nuts stay on the chain cover, I like the power to weight ratio to.

 

[LD1]

If you can find a Stihl saw to beat the power to weight to cost ratio of a XP Husqvarna than I’d like to see. There might be 1 but on average the Husqvarna wins by a lot. I don’t miss a chance to outcut a Stihl owner but if there is a better Stihl I wouldn’t be above owning one. Almost no one around here runs pro grade saws for firewood cutting and I’ve never lost. You can take the brand out of it and 50cc homeowner saw has zero chance of beating a 70cc pro saw.

I'm not up with current models, and epa/emissions stuff....

But....

A decade ago...a dolmar 7900 couldn't be beat in power to weight ratio. It was the BEST saw in the 70cc class IMO

 

[4570Man]

I don’t think a 7900 is made anymore

 

[LD1]

I don’t think a 7900 is made anymore

I know they changed and made an epa compliant version, heavier and less power (which killed it's power to weight ratio).

But don't know what's currently out there.

I put a big bore kit...ported and all...on. probably talking 7hp saw on a small frame similar to a 441 or 372 in physical size and weight.

For thise unfamiliar with dolmar.....
Husky fans imagine 395xp power on a 372xp
Still fans imagine 660 power out of a 441 or 460.

That's what I have. Shouldn't trade it for any other saw. For me, it's the perfect combo of power and weight

 

[4570Man]

I think the new model that the epa ruined is much closer to equal with a 372. And I’m guessing my epa compliant 372 could be modded to do better than the rated 5.5 hp.