Husqvarna GT52XLS won't turn over - battery is good

[TexasDad76]

There is a wiring harness plug in left side under the dash. Take that apart and you might see that all ate up.

I just replaced the key switch, and it didn't change anything. The wiring harness that the key ignition switch plugs into looked good as new.

And how/why would the harness be "all ate up"? The mower is less than a year old. None of my other vehicles, tractor, or my 10-year-old riding mower ever had problems with wiring getting eaten by rodents. We have a lot of farm cats that live/hang around our back porch, so as soon as a mouse gets within 200 feet of our house, it's dinner.

There is 13.2 V across the 2 solenoid posts. If I short those 2 posts (hotwire it), the engine begins turning over, and might even start.

I'd like to disable any and all safety switches on the machine. If I want to do something stupid or unsafe, I should have the right (as an American) to do so. Safety is highly overrated, and freedom is highly under-rated these days. I don't need any government or corporation to protect me from myself. Does anyone realize how demeaning that is? To be protected from oneself?

 

[tomplum]

You seem to be a bit frustrated. I assume that you have a chassis mounted starter solenoid and that checking between the two small terminals when the key is activated , you get your voltage reading? Or is your solenoid piggy backed to the starter? For most Husqvarnas: On a chassis mounted solenoid you will have 4 posts on these. A big lug will go to the starter and the other the battery. The small terminals one will be a ground when the safety switches are online and ready to crank. The other small one is the trigger wire which will send 12 volts to the solenoid when the key is turned. So if you seem to have met these conditions and it still doesn't crank, remove the small trigger wire and simply jump from the large battery lug to that terminal. If it cranks, you know your ground is sufficient and you can reverse this test by reattaching the trigger wire and supplying a ground to the other and activate the key. If you get no crank either way, your solenoid is likely failed. I have had newer Husqvarnas that had one of the small bullet connectors in the chassis connector that was never seated all the way and after some use, backed partially out of the connector. Visually inspect them. It's quick and cheap. The same can happen with a spade connector IE backing partially out of an ignition switch connector etc. Should you need more help, post the product number from below the seat and be specific on your test procedures. If you disable your safety switches and require service from your dealer, you may shoot yourself in the foot. Your tractor has a warranty I assume too for such issues.

 

[Leejohn]

I didn't say the harness all ate up, I said the plug in. I should of worded that a little different and said burnt up on the end side. The plug in I'm talking about is down close to the frame not the plug in for the switch.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

You should have a brake and seat safety switch. I know i bypassed one of mine, think it was the brake one.

 

[TexasDad76]

Well, it seems to be the brake safety switch that is faulty. I started it today with no problem, once I put the parking brake on!

So now my big question is: how to disable that brake safety switch. As I mentioned above, I have no love for the safety features, nor do I walk around all day in a polo helmet for the sake of safety

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I looked at my electric schematic, in the manual, and put a jumper wire that basically shorts the brake switch. Went from one of the switch terminals to somewhere, will have to look tomorrow.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I jumpered from my pto switch to solenoid white wire and bypassed.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Heres how mine is. When key is held in start, you have power on switch S terminal (only hot during start) to the Pto switch (shorted when off) and rhen in series to brake switch (shorted with brake on) then to white on solenoid. I jumpered from pto switch H side (so i still have pto safety) to white on solenoid, basically jumpering the two white wires on brake switch.

 

[travlitt]

FYI The seat switch is not in the start circuit. White wire from key switch (start trigger wire) goes to the pto switch (pto switch must be pulled out) from there to the brake/clutch switch ( brake /clutch pushed down) then it goes to one of the small spade connector on the starter solenoid. The other small spade must be grounded for it to start.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

Well, it seems to be the brake safety switch that is faulty. I started it today with no problem, once I put the parking brake on!

So now my big question is: how to disable that brake safety switch. As I mentioned above, I have no love for the safety features, nor do I walk around all day in a polo helmet for the sake of safety

I might add, if you can start it with the brake on, then it's working correctly and you shouldnt be changing anything.