Husqvarna YTH22K42 Lawn Tractor Not Starting

[AndyM1]

Have about 40 hours on this, all hauling. Mower is not even mounted. Turn the key - nothing (and I mean Nothing - no click, no groan - nothing). I am thinking seat switch but not sure how to test it. Found 1 fuse and it's good. Battery shows 14 v on a tester (usually on a maintainer) - lights are strong. Any other ideas appreciated.

 

[DieselBound]

Is the brake set? Blades (PTO?) disengaged?

 

[Scar0B2150]

What year?
Seat switch, Brake switch, Neutral switch, PTO switch. All can disable the starting.
Go here https://www.husqvarna.com/ca-en/support/manuals-downloads/
type in your model # and check out the first download (2018-04). It has a schematic.

 

[Roadworthy]

You are probably not depressing the brake far enough or your seat switch is defective. Note that the seat switch may (probably will) have two sets of contacts, one is normally open and the other is normally closed. Both must be satisfied. If any of the safeties fail to register the proper configuration it will prevent the starter from operating. A failure of the solenoid to energize will cause the same symptom. Try checking to see if you are getting any voltage to the low current side of the solenoid.

 

[AndyM1]

Thanks to all for the replies.

Brake is set and reset and locked on - that was the first thing I checked. Pushed in as far as it will go but I will try it again just in case.

I don't normally touch the PTO but did check it was set it was off - it's not something I normally use.

I did download the the manuals and schematic - wasn't clear to me what I should be looking for. The tractor looks new underneath (no mowing so no wear, still clean...). We got it in 2017.

Seat switch, Brake switch, Neutral switch, PTO switch - boy this thing has a lot of switches. I guess it's a process of eliminating one at a time.

The seat switch seems like a good suspect to start with. Dumb question: if I have to be in the seat for the system to energize how to check the solenoid (or he seat switch for that matter). Take the switch out of the seat and test it that way? I will also see if I can find the other switches and see what they look like.

Thanks for the leads.


Cheers
Andy

 

[jaxs]

Thanks to all for the replies.

I did download the the manuals and schematic - wasn't clear to me what I should be looking for.

The seat switch seems like a good suspect to start with. Dumb question: if I have to be in the seat for the system to energize how to check the solenoid (or he seat switch for that matter). Take the switch out of the seat and test it that way? I will also see if I can find the other switches and see what they look like.
Thanks for the leads.
Cheers
Andy

Ask your girl friend to sit in the seat while you test solenoid and remainder of switches. What no girl friend? In that case set a bag of sand in seat or zip tie seat switch in position while you do the testing.

 

[AndyM1]

Had to chuckle at that - when you get accustomed to working on your own, the obvious answer somehow just doesn't occur. Yes, she is happy to sit (it's her tractor!!)

 

[jaxs]

Had to chuckle at that - when you get accustomed to working on your owngreat, the obvious answer somehow just doesn't occur. Yes, she is happy to sit (it's her tractor!!)

Think nothing of it,by the time you are my age you will learn to stay sharp and keeping track every secound while working on things. That come's from having kids,followed by grandkids then great grandkids asking one question after another while climbing all over what you are trying to fix. And wet willies

 

[DieselBound]

Think nothing of it,by the time you are my age you will learn to stay sharp and keeping track every secound while working on things. That come's from having kids,followed by grandkids then great grandkids asking one question after another while climbing all over what you are trying to fix. And wet willies

Add in critters, dogs and what have you!

 

[AndyM1]

I think it might be my age that might be why I didn't think of that!

I will report back once I find out what's going on - roofers showed up so I have been distracted. Another little project on the go.

 

[DieselBound]

I had an issue (quite similar) with my B7800. I was really busy at the time and didn't have time to really look into it. A neighbor wanted to use it and another neighbor volunteered to trouble-shoot it. Once I was freed of my other distractions, after the one neighbor was unsuccessful in his diagnosis, I rolled my sleeves up... A fuse that I'd looked at and looked fine turned out to be, using, drum roll, a proper diagnostic tool (and ohm meter), in fact, bad. This is the only time that I've ever encountered a visually OK-looking fuse to be bad. Many a time a person can bruise their forehead on low-hanging fruit!

Also, electrical connections can readily become corroded (in ways that it's almost impossible to detect w/o intense diagnostics or methodically pulling things apart and checking [but keep in mind that what looks fine isn't always FINE <- refer to my above fuse story]). Had this occur on a generator. Generator is an older unit that I had done a lot on to get it reliable, and then one day it wouldn't spin the starter (prior to this event I'd even pulled that starter and cleaned and lubed it!). There's a lot of electrical stuff going on with generators. One can find oneself staring at a lot of intimidating looking stuff. Armed with a schematic and with some help from an online forum (SmokeStak.com is an excellent source for older engines and such!) I tracked down the problem to a poor connection on a relay. Went through all the connections I could and now it's all good; it's something that I should have done from the get-go, after first getting the generator. Just plain good advice for when getting ANY piece of used equipment: sigh, and for even NEW stuff (a new flail tried to self-destruct when an under-torqued bolt came loose).

 

[AndyM1]

I actually have had a similar experience with a fuse, so I did a continuity test on this one. I hate tracking electrical faults for the reasons you point out. I was moving some material for the roofing project today with the truck and after I had finished unloading and went to leave IT did the same thing! Checked all the fuses then got under the hood and started wiggling wires and low and behold it started. Amazing co-incidence.

 

[jaxs]

I actually have had a similar experience with a fuse, so I did a continuity test on this one. I hate tracking electrical faults for the reasons you point out. I was moving some material for the roofing project today with the truck and after I had finished unloading and went to leave IT did the same thing! Checked all the fuses then got under the hood and started wiggling wires and low and behold it started. Amazing co-incidence.

With the virus taking on new variants as quick as another is curbed it was bound to happen. The lawn tractor cpu evidently caught a virus and now it has spread to the truck cpu. You'll need to change oil, filters,flush system and get additives in everything on the place before it spread's farthar.
Some days I get bored and just can't help myself. I'm over it now and subscribed, updated us when you get back to it.

 

[grsthegreat]

An intermittent loose wire SUCKS. Those have been the bain to my existence for more years than i care to imagine.
speaking of fuses. I cant tell you the number of times ive fixed equipment not working by replacing bad fuses. The owners swear they tested them, but they never actually pulled it and did a continuity test. Some fuses will get a back feed thru the equipment and appear to be testing good. Mostly on 240 equipment, and i see it alot on generator transfer switches.

 

[AndyM1]

I cannot find what vaccine GMC is offering - but I hope it doesn't spread to the Kubota!

No roofers today so had a look. I had pulled the fuse to do the continuity check so no joy there. It's been sitting out in the sun for the last few days so on a lark I tried to start it. First click, nothing. Second click , nothing. Third click varoom. Did nothing - near as I can figure it needed a beach holiday. So it started but I have no idea what caused the problem or what fixed it which is not where I like to be. I will keep the leads provided in mind if it decides it needs a holiday again. Thanks all.

 

[jaxs]

I believe those posting in this thread are serious about good pratices. Here's a simple and time saving tip for testing fuses on car,truck and tractor. Turn everything on and go down the line of fuses with volt meter set to battery volts. Touch (preferiably clip to free both hands) black - probe to chassis or known ground then touching each end of fuse (preferiably fuse holder) with red + probe should read battery volt at both ends. If 12v at one end but nada at other mean's blown fuse. Highly accurate meter reading 12v at one and 1v to 11.5v at other spell's corosion in fuse holder. Some fuses will have no power at either end which mean's the circuit isn't in use,do a continuty test. To save time and I don't forget which slot fuse belongs after bench test I generally only pull one end for continuty test.
If boo birds don't come around warning this will set fire to your place or cause kids to be born naked we might dive deeper one of these days if ya'll are of the notion.

 

[tomplum]

Seat switches are not in the crank circuit. As far as safety switches, the PTO presents switch and the brake switch. You can tell should this happen again if you have a safety switch or trigger circuit issue by testing the 2 small wires at the starter solenoid. The safety line will supply a ground if ready to crank and the other 12 VDC when the key is turned.

 

[jaxs]

Seat switches are not in the crank circuit. As far as safety switches, the PTO presents switch and the brake switch. You can tell should this happen again if you have a safety switch or trigger circuit issue by testing the 2 small wires at the starter solenoid. The safety line will supply a ground if ready to crank and the other 12 VDC when the key is turned.

Another proceedure where mechanic might run short on hands(unlike op who needed an extra butt). I mentioned meter clips earlier but in case some aren't familiar, here's one solution when that happens.
tomplumb, that tip really should save people time and frusteration with no crank and no start situations but a few might welcome clearification on first two sentences and a little more detail on how to go about preforming the test.

 

[AndyM1]

Good stuff - thanks tomplum for that tidbit - should greatly narrow the search!

 

[AndyM1]

Went to start it tonight - nope. But thanks to tomplum a little tinkering with the brake switch and we were back in business. Thank you SIR.