hyd gauge

[SPYDERLK]

If you want to leave it on permanately to monitor on a ongoing basis, then tee it inot the line between gear pump and inlet of the loader valve. This will give you reading of whatever pressure is required to complete any function at any load.

Yes. This is where you need it. Teeing into the lift line will of course only measure the pressure in that line. More importantly, that line is not protected by the pressure relief when the valve is centered. It can see very hi pressure when carrying a load over bumps or when pushing with the bucket low. Also, as mentioned the bourdon tube will fatigue with enuf pressure cycles and pop, blowing the gauge apart. Be sure to include a flow restrictor in the gauge line to prevent hi flow when the gauge fails. One that lets thru only a few drops per second will still give pretty quick response and you wont be stranded by a gusher if the gauge fails.
larry

 

[retiredmgn]

Ok, you guys are killing me. Makin' me want a gauge more than ever. So if a bourdon tube is not up to the task, which of the 600+ gauges on Surplus Center is? I certainly don't want to invest time in something that is going to fail. I'm willing to pay the price of quality and buy once.
Just ask my wife, it's been 35 years and I have no intention of trading her in - still works good, was a good investment.

 

[SSdoxie]

There are more expensive guages out there, more commonly used in engineering/design testing. One factor that helps reduce fatique of the guage and gives most accurate reading is using a guage of adequate pressure rating. Rule of thumb in desing testing is use a guage with max psi that is 2x the desired or expected reading. As example if the relief pressure of your system is 2500 psi, use a 5000 psi guage. If 3000 psi relief, use 6000 psi guage.

 

[J_J]

Something like this or something similar at TSC

Surplus Center - 3000 PSI 2.5" LF LM GAUGE

 

[retiredmgn]

Something like this or something similar at TSC

Surplus Center - 3000 PSI 2.5" LF LM GAUGE

OK, I'm lost here. J J, I think this is the same one I listed at the top of this thread. One poster said this is a "bourdon tube" and would be suspect to blowing out if permanently mounted. I know nothing of these particulars. Do you think this is a sufficient gauge for my application? I do like the price if it will hold up.

 

[J_J]

That gage will work just fine.

http://www.forbesmarshall.com/fm_micro/ProductDetails.aspx?id=Gauges&pgid=Pressure Gauges

http://www.forbesmarshall.com/fm_micro/Products1.aspx?flag=1&id=Gauges&pid=144

 

[timbatrader]

There are gauges that have a push button on them that only show a reading while you push the button down this style of gauge is less prone to fatigue as it is only operating for short periods of time while you are looking at it

 

[JJZ 109]

I dont think you need to Tee it in and mount it permanently, get a short (24") hose, a coupler and a QD nipple and just test it occasionally.

That's what I did several years ago before & after installing a shim kit in a JD 790 with 419 loader.
Then when I went to a Kubota B3030/LA403 I had to change couplers. Now that tractor is gone and I've got a Bobcat skid steer with big flat faced couplers. Looks like I'll have to switch up again.
Below is a photo. Not shown is the hydraulic hose between gauge and coupler.

 

[BukitCase]

Nelson, just to clarify for you - I'm just retiring from spending the last 35 years in two different rare metals mfg plants as an instrumentation/control tech, and I can tell you that anything you will want to pay for will be a bourdon tube instrument - the next step up is too complex for a tractor by the time you get all the components to read it, and will cost at least 20 TIMES the price of the gauge you asked about.

All the suggestions given, including temp hookups, restrictors, etc, are prudent because regardless of what you pay for a gauge, murphy's law eventually kicks in. Things WILL fail. Not IF, but WHEN.

So prepare for it - I'd consider also adding a shutoff valve along with that restrictor if you intend to permanently plumb in a gauge - as in, valve, restrictor, gauge.

That way, you have the option of leaving the gauge "turned off", as well as leaving it "on" but being able to shut it off WHEN it fails, with minimum mess.

I'd also agree with placing it between the pump outlet and the first valve, assuming your tractor is "open center" - that way, anything you use (FEL, 3-point, remotes) will show up on the gauge because there is almost NO pressure in an open center system UNTIL you move a lever - it's just circulating back to the tank until then.

HTH... Steve