Hyd Top Link

   / Hyd Top Link #1  

DDT

Platinum Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2000
Messages
953
Location
Clay Center, Kansas
Tractor
Kubota M6040/cab, BX25D, RTVX900
Well Kadonte built his top link for alot less. Thanks for the idea kadonte! I built mine aswell, Show and tell isin't it! I have about $160 in it, everything is new. use a 2 x 8 cylinder. It sure works nice when added to a quick hitch, does wonders with a box blade. this board is great.
 

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   / Hyd Top Link #2  
I think I'm going to have to move the hydraulic top link project for my 1720 to the TOP of my list.!!/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Looks great DDT!!!! Keep us posted on how it works.
 
   / Hyd Top Link #3  
I assume that you already had the SCV? $160 is good... How did you fabricate it? I found a 3X8 hydraulic top link in the Surplus Center catalog (Lincoln,NE) for $199. That seems like a pretty decent price for one that you just set in place. My NH dealer quoted me $250 for the SCV (including hoses & quick connector ends) for my TC33. He says that the TC is set up for easy install of the SCV. How easy is it to install for a Buckeye with little hydraulics knowledge such as myself? How do these prices compare? Under $500 seems fair to me from what I've seen... I need to move alot of dirt this year & think that this HDT is the ticket for my box blade!
 
   / Hyd Top Link #4  
Looks good, Dana. Did you paint it to match tractor or buy it that color? And I assume when you say 2 x 8, you're talking about an 8" stroke. Aren't you going to add a hydraulic side link, too?

Bird
 
   / Hyd Top Link
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I got a 3x8 and tryed it, but for a 4300 it was too big around, so that's why I when to a 2x8" cylinder. cylinder cost $63. cross brand (made in Kansas) two eyelets at $6 each, $15 hired cast welding done, the rest was hose and fittings. they are red when new but mine turned green with envy. I had to get swivel elbows so the hose would flex right. The one end is cast, I cut the holes off and had a PROFESSANAL welder attacth the center block I made to the cylinder,(he had to heat both parts before it was welded) I have not welded cast. I welded the (shaft end) eyelet to a nut and then treaded a jamb nut on the shaft. jamb both nuts together, now I can repair this cylinder with no problems. I order my tractor with the 3rd SCV on it for this purpose.
Bird what do you mean by side tilt?
 
   / Hyd Top Link #6  
Dana, I did like LarryT and a number of other people and used a two spool valve, so I have the hydraulic top link, but also have a hydraulic side link. I put the hydraulic cylinder on the right side and moved the manually adjustable link over to the left side. So now I can tilt the blade forward and backwards, and also tilt it side to side for things like cutting a trench or putting a shoulder on a road. Of course, it won't be adjusted nearly as often as the top link, but there are times when that feature is mighty handy.

Bird
 
   / Hyd Top Link #7  
Bird, what size is your side link? Where did you get it? Can you describe how the two spool valve is hooked up? Where did you get it? Is it inisde the valve housing or is it attached outside as an add-on?
 
   / Hyd Top Link #8  
EddieW, see my message for the complete description on 01/15/01 in the "Hydraulic Tip 'N Tilt" thread in the Kubota Owning forum, and a picture at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/2-29405-3pointcyl.JPG

The side cylinder is a 2" cylinder, 13.5" collapsed, 3.5" stroke, but I added a little bracket at the top that increased the length about 2.5". And in the picture you can also see the valve I added by mounting it on the fender just in front of the ROPS.

Bird
 
   / Hyd Top Link #9  
Thanks, Bird. I found the article and picture. I remember the picture, just forgot the post. It was very informative. It sounded too familiar , though. I have projects like that. The picture was very good.
 
   / Hyd Top Link #10  
I've got a Gearmore T&T "kit" installed on my B7500. The top link is a 2x8 and the side link is a 2x4. Works very well. A friend with a B7100 has a ylinder on both of his side links to increase the angle that he can tip. His setup works really great when you want to clean out a ditch without digging into the road crown.

Like Bird, I just switched the manually adjustable link over to the other side. In those rare instances when I need maximum tilt, I still have to get out and crank by hand.

The GlueGuy
 
   / Hyd Top Link #11  
GlueGuy,

I have been thinking about tip and tilt for my B7500. I recall seeing some pictures of a really handsome guy on a B7500, I'm guessing that was you. What are the chances of getting some more pictures of that guy standing off to the side of the tip and tilt? I checked the Gearmore web sight and couldn't find any kits. Do you have any part numbers? Also, now that you have used it a bit is there anything you would do different? Any help will be appreciated, no hurry of coarse.
Thanks
Al
 
   / Hyd Top Link #12  
<font color=blue>The top link is a 2x8 and the side link is a 2x4.</font color=blue>

Just to flaunt my ignorance once again -- is that diameter x stroke (i.e. 2" diameter x 8" stroke)? If not, what exactly do those numbers indicate? /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

HarvSig.gif
 
   / Hyd Top Link #13  
Harv, I'll beat glueguy to the answer. Yes, that's diameter and stroke. The other dimension you have to be concerned with is getting the overall length, collapsed, of the cylinders right for your tractor (they actually measure them from center of pin to center of pin instead of overall length). My top link cylinder was 20" in length, 2" diameter, 8" stroke, but I had an inch cut off each end to make the collapsed length 18". The side link cylinder was 13.5" in length, 2" diameter, and 3.5" stroke, but I added a bracket at the top that increased the collapsed length a couple of inches.

Bird
 
   / Hyd Top Link #14  
GlueBird -

Thanks! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I've been thinking of writing a book about the things I don't know, but the publisher said they don't have that much paper. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

HarvSig.gif
 
   / Hyd Top Link #15  
Harv, they already wrote the book about the things I don't know. I think they call it the Library of Congress.

Bird
 
   / Hyd Top Link #16  
I've got the part numbers for the kit around here someplace, but I'll have to get back to you on that (I'm at work, waiting for a batch operation to finish, and the "stuff" is at home /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif).

The GlueGuy
 
   / Hyd Top Link #17  
<font color=blue>I think they call it the Library of Congress</font color=blue>

I think that that's a work in progress, with no estimated time of completion.... /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

The GlueGuy
 
   / Hyd Top Link #18  
Yeah, I guess it would have to be a work in progress because I'm finding more and more all the time that I don't know./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird
 
   / Hyd Top Link #19  
Al,

<font color=blue>Do you have any part numbers?</font color=blue>

The Top&Tilt kit that's installed on my B7500 is listed as follows on my invoice:

- Gearmore model TT241-2K, 2 spool valve w/hydraulic top & side cylinder
- Gearmore model VB-170-3K ROPS mounted valve bracket assembly

The top cylinder is a 2x8 (2" bore x 8" stroke) with a length of 18". The side cylinder is a 2x4 with a length of 15.3"

The cylinders were measured collapsed center pin to center pin.

Bird,

<font color=blue>finding more and more all the time that I don't know</font color=blue>

That seems to be a might common ailment. In the words of another friend of mine: "There's nothing wrong with my memory, I just don't always get same day service". /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif


The GlueGuy
 
   / Hyd Top Link #20  
GlueGuy,

Thanks for taking the time. I appreciate it./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
 

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