Hyd top link

[bones1]

Before ordering I need to measure my top link length. Do I measure the length center to center adjusted all the way in?Just want to get it right first time. Thanks.

 

[MadReferee]

Cylinders are usually listed as having two measurements, stroke and retracted length. You will most likely need these two measurements: center hole to center hole fully retracted and center hole to center hole fully extended.

Depending on where you are going to purchase the cylinder, those two measurements should be all you will need. You need to get a cylinder that has a stroke and retracted length as close as possible to your measurements.

 

[3RRL]

Before ordering I need to measure my top link length. Do I measure the length center to center adjusted all the way in?Just want to get it right first time. Thanks.

I have a suggestion in addition to Mad's advice. Often times you might benefit from having more stroke than not enough..maybe not? But this is one way to check it. For example, if you use your boxblade a lot, use the stock top link and screw it all the way in (make it as short as it will go). Then see if the boxblade has the desired angle of attack for using the rippers or cutting with the front blade. If not, you may want a "SHORTER" top link to get more tilt? Measure the center to center distance as Mad told you. Subtract an inch if you need a shorter one (or add Pat's EZ change system).

Do the same thing with the toplink screwed all the way out (make it as long as it can be) and check how the boxblade is tilted backwards. If it's OK, use that length. If it's not enough, add an inch to get more tilt, etc. In any case, you will at least know what distances (shortest to longest) you want and you can get a hydraulic cylinder with those specs. When looking for a cylinder, it should tell you what the retracted length is and add the stroke to get the extended length.

 

[bones1]

Thanks guys.I was looking here for a cylinder http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm unless you know of someone else that sells them.I'm getting a little clearer on this subject thanks for your help.

 

[PineRidge]

Do the same thing with the toplink screwed all the way out (make it as long as it can be) and check how the boxblade is tilted backwards. If it's OK, use that length. If it's not enough, add an inch to get more tilt, etc. In any case, you will at least know what distances (shortest to longest) you want and you can get a hydraulic cylinder with those specs. When looking for a cylinder, it should tell you what the retracted length is and add the stroke to get the extended length.

Be very careful not to end up with a cylinder that's to long when extended. Doing so could in some cases actually send the rippers into the rear tires under certain conditions, and I don't need to tell you that isn't good.

 

[ovrszd]

Thanks guys.I was looking here for a cylinder http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm unless you know of someone else that sells them.I'm getting a little clearer on this subject thanks for your help.

Here is another website that has recently started stocking TNT cylinders. They also carry a cylinder for side tilt. www.redlandhill.com

 

[PineRidge]

Here is another website that has recently started stocking TNT cylinders. They also carry a cylinder for side tilt. www.redlandhill.com

Be advised that these cylinders do not appear to have double piloted check valves. While they may be suitable for side links, I wouldn't recommend one for a top link.

 

[bones1]

Be advised that these cylinders do not appear to have double piloted check valves. While they may be suitable for side links, I wouldn't recommend one for a top link.

I understand they will leak down and not hold position.I quess C&C is the only source for these units.Seems odd that no one else has these units.
Thanks for the good avice so far.

 

[3RRL]

Be very careful not to end up with a cylinder that's to long when extended. Doing so could in some cases actually send the rippers into the rear tires under certain conditions, and I don't need to tell you that isn't good.

Hi Mike, I'm sure you know when I gave the following advice I was not insinuating to make it so long as to be able to puncture the tires....hahaha....that's why he should "check" the tilt to be sure it's going to work.

Originally Posted by 3RRL
Do the same thing with the toplink screwed all the way out (make it as long as it can be) and check how the boxblade is tilted backwards. If it's OK, use that length. If it's not enough, add an inch to get more tilt, etc. In any case, you will at least know what distances (shortest to longest) you want and you can get a hydraulic cylinder with those specs. When looking for a cylinder, it should tell you what the retracted length is and add the stroke to get the extended length.

One thing your post brought to my attention is that he should check that tilt with the rippers fully extented (fully down) to avoid exactly what you warned against.

As far as sources for hydraulic cylinders, I would go to Surplus Center because they have a great selection and list the specs either right on the page or on "SPEC SHEET" so you can get all the measurements for designing. Go here: SURPLUS CENTER HYDRAULIC SECTION
They also offer a relatively new "Brand new PRINCE double pilot-operated lock valve designed to lock a cylinder in place when control valve is in the neutral position." Go HERE for the ½" npt model. I know it's not the same (specs) as the TNT check valve but in talking to them they seemed to think it would work. I am going to install them myself so I will report on them in another Thread. There has been much discussion in previous threads about using "other than TNT" check valves, but in light of the fact that we can't get any from them, that's what I'm going to do.

 

[bones1]

Thanks 3RRL and PineRidge. I'm going to wait and see what comes of this.

 

[PineRidge]

Hi Mike, I'm sure you know when I gave the following advice I was not insinuating to make it so long as to be able to puncture the tires....hahaha....that's why he should "check" the tilt to be sure it's going to work. One thing your post brought to my attention is that he should check that tilt with the rippers fully extented (fully down) to avoid exactly what you warned against.

As far as sources for hydraulic cylinders, I would go to Surplus Center because they have a great selection and list the specs either right on the page or on "SPEC SHEET" so you can get all the measurements for designing. Go here: SURPLUS CENTER HYDRAULIC SECTION
They also offer a relatively new "Brand new PRINCE double pilot-operated lock valve designed to lock a cylinder in place when control valve is in the neutral position." Go HERE for the ½" npt model. I know it's not the same (specs) as the TNT check valve but in talking to them they seemed to think it would work. I am going to install them myself so I will report on them in another Thread. There has been much discussion in previous threads about using "other than TNT" check valves, but in light of the fact that we can't get any from them, that's what I'm going to do.

Rob the only reason that I make mention of this is when my rippers are fully lowered while the top link is fully extended the rippers are dangerously close to the rear tires. For that reason I never fully lower them.

 

[MadReferee]

They also offer a relatively new "Brand new PRINCE double pilot-operated lock valve designed to lock a cylinder in place when control valve is in the neutral position." Go HERE for the ½" npt model. I know it's not the same (specs) as the TNT check valve but in talking to them they seemed to think it would work. I am going to install them myself so I will report on them in another Thread. There has been much discussion in previous threads about using "other than TNT" check valves, but in light of the fact that we can't get any from them, that's what I'm going to do.

Not only are they somewhat expensive, and not quite to the CCM specs, they would be quite a plumbing nightmare to hookup. That is, unless you can fab up some solid tubing or have your local hydraulic shop do it for a kings ransom in US dollars no doubt. It's not a job for those who don't have the right tools or expertise.

 

[3RRL]

Not only are they somewhat expensive, and not quite to the CCM specs, they would be quite a plumbing nightmare to hookup. That is, unless you can fab up some solid tubing or have your local hydraulic shop do it for a kings ransom in US dollars no doubt. It's not a job for those who don't have the right tools or expertise.

You're right Mad, I saw the way there ports are?? What's up with that? IMO it should be hard-lined to the cylinder to take advantage of the DPOCV feature so you don't blow a hose. I'm taking mine to the hydraulic shop to do it.

 

[stevenf]

Bones1, I got my HTL from Draper Tractor talked to Darrel its a Bare-Co Cat2 HTL it goes from 24.5" to 35" and has the anti creep valve the cylinder alone is $258.60 but you need hoses, adapters, pioneer fittings and by the time shipping was involved as well it cost $339.80. It is very well made and I am quite happy with it so far. I put on a Pat's easy change system and was replacing an OEM HTL from my Beltec Auger that was to short for my implement with the addition of my PECS. I still have the old one for my Auger since it has custom studs for triangular support on the Auger its a Hyd down pressure outfit. You can see the new HTL here if you scroll down in their window a bit although the Cat2 one I got doesn't have the claw on it just ball ends, the top black ones don't have the anti creep valves but are much cheaper and look it.
http://www.bare-co.com/files/hydraul2001/hy22.htm
The poster that said watch out for your scarifiers on your BB is dead on, it is something to be concerned about, my tires are solid filled so no real worries for me but I can get to the lugs if I wasn't paying attention by lifting it all the way up and curling it forward.
Steve

 

[ovrszd]

Be advised that these cylinders do not appear to have double piloted check valves. While they may be suitable for side links, I wouldn't recommend one for a top link.

I recommended Redlandhill for one reason, "We start with a quality North American built Lions welded hydraulic cylinder", which is in their description. The check valve can be added at any time.

 

[PineRidge]

I recommended Redlandhill for one reason, "We start with a quality North American built Lions welded hydraulic cylinder", which is in their description. The check valve can be added at any time.

Can you make a recommendation for a suitable check valve that may be added to these cylinders?

 

[ovrszd]

Can you make a recommendation for a suitable check valve that may be added to these cylinders?

No I can't but I haven't asked about one either. I would assume the sites mentioned above can supply one that would work??? Surely someone here in the U.S. builds such a valve??? When I get ready to buy mine, I'll find a suitable valve and post a thread about how to set it up.

 

[MadReferee]

Surely someone here in the U.S. builds such a valve??? When I get ready to buy mine, I'll find a suitable valve and post a thread about how to set it up.

Good luck. Many have tried, including several top hydraulic shops, and no one to this date has been successful. O yea, you can buy a similar valve from SUrplus Center but plumbing it is another story.

 

[bones1]

Can't the check valve be mounted remotely,not on the cylinder to help with the plumbing issues?Or does it have to be on the cylinder?

 

[MadReferee]

It doesn't have to be on the cylinder but when it is on the cylinder, a ruptured hose will not cause the cylinder to move. Some consider this a safety measure having the check valves on the cylinder.