Hydraulic auger problem
- Thread starter trctr155
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That makes me wonder as I was aware of the the flow rates for the front end loader and backhoe, but the auger is directly hooked up th ethe 3rd function quick connects. I am not sure if they share the same front loader pump or if they plumb of one of the others?? The 3rd fuction control allows flow to both the front and rear auxiliary hydros. Regardless, the auger is turning at the speed Danuser says it should be, but I am cur
EP1020 | |||
| Output Speed | Output Torque | ||
| GPM | RPM | PSI | FT.-LBS. |
| 10 | 48 | 2500 | 1587 |
| 3000 | 1904 | ||
| 3500 | 2222 | ||
| 12 | 58 | 2500 | 1587 |
| 3000 | 1904 | ||
| 3500 | 2222 | ||
| 14 | 68 | 2500 | 1587 |
| 3000 | 1904 | ||
| 3500 | 2222 | ||
| 15 | 72 | 2500 | 1587 |
| 3000 | 1904 | ||
| 3500 | 2222 | ||
| 18 | 87 | 2500 | 1587 |
| 3000 | 1904 | ||
| 3500 | 2222 | ||
| 20 | 97 | 2500 | 1587 |
| 3000 | 1904 | ||
| 3500 | 2222 |
Yellow-shaded areas indicate recommended operating ranges.
The yellow doesnt show but there site shows 12-15 as being optimal. This was copied from Danuser site. So at 12gpm the turning rpm is 58. It is functioning at this rate. Just way to slow to effectively pull out very dry loose spoils. Would be awesome if it had a 2-speed function that would allow rapid spinning on the way up perhaps. Again, it had plenty of power to crush through the dirt, just wasnt used to these types to spinning fast enough to clean.
Xfaxman
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- Toolcat 5610 G - Bobcat V417 - TORO+Loader
If you are going to be using it a lot, consider a PTO driven hydraulic pump system that could spin it faster when raising: PTO driven hydraulic pump system at DuckDuckGo
If you have a spare rear remote, check and see what the flow through that is. If it is higher than what is available at the front, plumb from the rear remote to the front. Better yet, hook that auger to the back hoe arm and run it that way.
CausticUrbanCoast
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If your is this model:
www.danuser.com
You should be able to build a hydraulic doubler for it and push it up to 20gpm, maybe you can get closer to 95 rpm.
EP1020 Auger System | Danuser
You should be able to build a hydraulic doubler for it and push it up to 20gpm, maybe you can get closer to 95 rpm.
Fallon
Super Member
I've got the same Danhuser hydraulic PHD I believe & its a lot slower RPM wise than my old 3pt PTO one. However due to downpressure & other factors it gets as many post holes per hour. I never corkscrewed my 3pt PHD, but came close a few times & was terrified of that. Never a concern with reverse.
One thing to remember is 12gpm at 2,500psi is about 17hp. Generally even a small SCUT has more PTO hp. And with restrictions & what not we are probably noticably under 12gpm to the actual PHD. With a 12" auger I can stall the auger if I go hard on it or am dealing with clay.
Due to a bad back & ease of use I wouldn't give up my SSQA hydraulic PHD for a 3pt. Even with its limitations.
One thing to remember is 12gpm at 2,500psi is about 17hp. Generally even a small SCUT has more PTO hp. And with restrictions & what not we are probably noticably under 12gpm to the actual PHD. With a 12" auger I can stall the auger if I go hard on it or am dealing with clay.
Due to a bad back & ease of use I wouldn't give up my SSQA hydraulic PHD for a 3pt. Even with its limitations.
I have a micro ex with 19hp diesel, 3 hydraulic pumps along with a hydraulic drive auger that runs off the remote circuit. I was just useing an 8in auger on hard clay and rock last week. I can tell you that 19hp (max) is enough. It was opening the relief well prior to bogging the engine at all. Really the only area you need torque is at the teeth, a auger filled with dirt really requires little torque to turn. Also hydraulics transfer torque alot easier than a drive shaft and gear box.
RjCorazza
Elite Member
I have a Land Pride ssqa hydraulic auger and recently finished re doing my fence. I noticed similar issues with auger speed and clearing out the holes.
The following worked best for me :
Dig 6" or so deeper than required.
Auger to full depth, stop the auger, remove from hole and spin off.
I do this 3 times and don't have to clam shell any dirt out by hand, and usually had to add a small amount of dirt and tamp while setting the post. My soil was pretty moist, but as a previous poster mentioned, adding water to the hole will help in clearing out the dirt.
It definitely doesn't clear the holes as easily as my old 3 point auger, but the ssqa hydraulic auger was soooooo much easier and faster overall.
In my case, I have a lot of broken up concrete in the soil about 18-24" down. A small chunk would stop the 3 point auger (either just spin on top or stall the tractor before I could clutch), requiring me to bust up the chunks with a digging bar and pull them out by hand. The hydraulic auger with down pressure brought it up nicely.
The following worked best for me :
Dig 6" or so deeper than required.
Auger to full depth, stop the auger, remove from hole and spin off.
I do this 3 times and don't have to clam shell any dirt out by hand, and usually had to add a small amount of dirt and tamp while setting the post. My soil was pretty moist, but as a previous poster mentioned, adding water to the hole will help in clearing out the dirt.
It definitely doesn't clear the holes as easily as my old 3 point auger, but the ssqa hydraulic auger was soooooo much easier and faster overall.
In my case, I have a lot of broken up concrete in the soil about 18-24" down. A small chunk would stop the 3 point auger (either just spin on top or stall the tractor before I could clutch), requiring me to bust up the chunks with a digging bar and pull them out by hand. The hydraulic auger with down pressure brought it up nicely.
