Hydraulic bug hunt

[valley]

Phil, Thanks! I'll looks this over and over. Richard

 

[valley]

Well! Here is how it went: I pulled the plug on the hydraulics, draining out the AW 32 I had filled with after cleaning the sump. It looked like ****, filthy looking. I removed the down spout I had installed when I cleaned the sump, I installed a Jinma Suction Strainer. I filled with diesel oil and as per Rob's suggestion I started the tractor and worked the hydraulics for a good hour. What diesel came out looking like drain oil. I pulled out the suction strainer. It was suprisingly clean. I reinstalled the suction strainer and filled with AW 32. The FEL fuctioned perfectly.
Conclusion: If the FEL fuctions well when cold today I'll have a brandy, sing and thank God. If not I will hunt out a even lower viscosity oil maybe AW 15. Reasoning: I could not have been happier with the way the FEL moved with the diesel oil. With caucious optimism Richard

 

[greg_g]

Conclusion: If the FEL fuctions well when cold today I'll have a brandy, sing and thank God. If not I will hunt out a even lower viscosity oil maybe AW 15.

Don't go overboard here, anything thinner than AW32 is typcially for arctic or sub-arctic conditions. You'll be just fine with AW32 there in Tahoe

//greg//

 

[3RRL]

Richard,
Bravo, looks like you got some good satisfying results.
Flushing all that crap out makes a difference. Glad it all worked out for you.
Like Greg said, the AW-32 should work fine even up there in cold country. Still, do let the tractor warm up properly before putting a load on it. It's just a good idea in general especially in the colder weather.
Let us know how it works tomorrow will ya?
Rob-

 

[studor]

Richard -- once you get below 0 fahrenheit the three point will take time to function even with AW32 - in my experience anyway
Because I leave the snowblower on most of the winter I have found that you can start the tractor to warm it up and then use the fel and power steering to warm the hydraulics or when the PTO is engaged it seems to generate enough heat to warm the hydraulics to a usable level in a few minutes - or you can buy a magnetic heater
regards
Steve

 

[RonMar]

If I ran regularly below 0F, I would use supplemental heat on cooling system, oil pan and hydro reservoir. That hydro pump has a long suction path to draw oil from the back of the tractor. Trying to pull cold oil from that distance can cause restrictions in flow which are hard on the pump.

Even the best designed and maintained machines break. Machines that are poorly cared-for break more frequently...

 

[Diamondpilot]

I knew the flush would give you good results. Its very important for others just reading that the oils that come in these tractors is junk. You must flush and refill with good stuff or you will chase problems right and left. Many flush the gearboxes also with kero or diesel.

Chris

 

[valley]

I fired up the machine this cold morning. Aannnd.... the FEL raised so as to make any man proud. Bucket full down and curl nice. If there is something to complain about I couldn't find it. The 3 poing is ready right now. All this with AW 32. After some things are done I still plan to go through the FEL Valve just because. I do have a flock of hoses to reend or replace, I hope to find the metric ends. The information, case histories and incouragement ,And close friend conversation took the pain out of this exercise. I thank
you! Richard Charshafian

 

[Diamondpilot]

Check with Ronnald at Ranch Hand Supply, he has a site, for the hoses. He can make what you want and sells kits of hoses. Granted he mainly deals in Jinma, but they may be the same ends. Just give him a call.

Chris

 

[valley]

Hi Chris, I got a quote to have one hose made in Nevada it was $43.08 each. I did as you suggested and checked on line, $65.00 each before shipping. I need 4 hoses, the choice is between $172.00 and $260.00 plus shipping. I'm still thinking maybe there is I can arrange hose and fittings from Discount hydraulics. Thanks for the help. Richard