Hydraulic connection installation question

[Superduper]

Thanks everyone for all the great advice. Looks like I'm going to get delayed by another week or so, as according to the wife, I need to do the earning money thing first . As you can see, our priorities don't always coincide. In the meantime, I'll search for some hydraulic sealant. Now, I just need to figure out how I'm going to torque these things to 37 lb.ft. I figure the only way (unless there is a tool out there that I'm unaware of) is to tighten the fittings with a crowsfoot adapter via 3/8" torque wrench. Since the crowsfoot adds length to the wrench, there will probably need to be some adjustment down from the 37lb/ft specification. Also, large 24mm and 1-3/8" crowsfoot flares are mighty rare and expensive so I'll probably need to use standard open-end crowsfoot but I figure that 37lb/ft should be OK with such large fittings. Or what the heck, should I just "guestimate" the torque specification?

~Super.

 

[Farmerford]

Super:

I am not sure where 37 ft# came from, but there are standard tables for pipe, JIC fittings, and flareless that specify tightness in terms of turns from hand/finger tight for pipe and flats (on the hex) from hand/finger tight for JIC and flareless. Just Google "fittings tight turns flats" or something like that and look. These specs are for the first tightening only. If the fitting does not leak, mark the position of the nut and fitting with a felt tip pen and then return to the same positon if you disassemble the fitting. If it leaks, tighten it just a little at the time until it stops, then mark it.

O-ring boss fittings usually specify torque (though I think I recall one that had flats from finger tight), but the secret with o-ring boss fittings is 1. to back the adjusting nut off all the way and then tighten the fitting until the o-ring is pressed almost all the way into the boss and the washer is pressed up against the threads for the adjusting nut, then 2. tighten the adjusting nut until the washer is against the boss, at which time metal is striking metal and the o-ring is properly compressed into the boss by the washer, smooth shank of the fitting, and the boss itself, and then 3. tighten the adjusting nut firmly (only a flat or so) just to keep it from loosening.

 

[Superduper]

Super:

I am not sure where 37 ft# came from, but there are standard tables for pipe, JIC fittings, and flareless that specify tightness in terms of turns from hand/finger tight for pipe and flats (on the hex) from hand/finger tight for JIC and flareless. Just Google "fittings tight turns flats" or something like that and look. These specs are for the first tightening only. If the fitting does not leak, mark the position of the nut and fitting with a felt tip pen and then return to the same positon if you disassemble the fitting. If it leaks, tighten it just a little at the time until it stops, then mark it.

O-ring boss fittings usually specify torque (though I think I recall one that had flats from finger tight), but the secret with o-ring boss fittings is 1. to back the adjusting nut off all the way and then tighten the fitting until the o-ring is pressed almost all the way into the boss and the washer is pressed up against the threads for the adjusting nut, then 2. tighten the adjusting nut until the washer is against the boss, at which time metal is striking metal and the o-ring is properly compressed into the boss by the washer, smooth shank of the fitting, and the boss itself, and then 3. tighten the adjusting nut firmly (only a flat or so) just to keep it from loosening.

Farmerford, the 37 ft# specification comes from the installation manual. A bunch of adapters are included as well. The kit comes with a parts bag that weights like 10 lbs. full of fittings, adapters, QC couplers, etc. I did not open the bag yet because if I do, something will get lost somewhere but it seems that O-rings are used on many of the fittings.

Unfortunately, you sort of lost me with your o-ring boss description but perhaps when I dive into it, it will become clear what you're trying to say. At this time, I can't picture it nor do I know what is the adjusting nut because all I see are metal tubes with a rotatable sleeve (hat?) that presumably tightens the tube onto the fitting.

I did notice that the installation manual makes no mention of using thread sealant, teflon tape, or pipe dope anywhere. The manual also includes directions such as install tubes as shown, but doesn't mention any further details. Noticeably missing is any information on how to install the Quick Disconect couplers.

In all likelihood, when I jump in, everything will become clear.

 

[kemartin3]

I can't lay my hands on the sheet of paper at the moment, but as memory serves, as long as you have the crow's foot turned 90 degrees to the line of the shaft of the wrench, then you don't have to adjust the torque setting. You haven't changed the effective length of the wrench.

If you have the crow's foot aligned with the shaft of the wrench, the manual for my Sear's wrench says

1. Measure the "lever length" of the wrench (L). In my case, from about the middle of the operator's rubber handle to the center of the square shaft where you normally snap on the socket.
2. Measure the effective length of the extention (E). That is, from the center of the square attachment hole to the center of where the nut will be.
3. Use the formula TW = TE * (L/(L+E))

where TW is the torque wrench setting and TE is the torque you want to apply to the nut.

Hope this helps,
Kevin

 

[Superduper]

1. Measure the "lever length" of the wrench (L). In my case, from about the middle of the operator's rubber handle to the center of the square shaft where you normally snap on the socket.
2. Measure the effective length of the extention (E). That is, from the center of the square attachment hole to the center of where the nut will be.
3. Use the formula TW = TE * (L/(L+E))

where TW is the torque wrench setting and TE is the torque you want to apply to the nut.

Hope this helps,
Kevin

Thanks Kevin. It will come in handy.