Hydraulic Couplers

[toy]

I figured you would figure it out wheel weights no extra weight on the machine a little more strain on the wheel motors possibly lift cylinders would have more strain but you would have a little extra lift when needed but I wouldn't leave them on all the time just to get that little extra help when the machine can almost lift the load. If you left them on all the time you would become desensitised about the actual capabilities of the machine and soon would be constantly overloading it. The part that the curl cylinder hooks to on the lift arms on mine bent while under waranty., they fixed it without any problems, they were nice about it. If I had been using it with wheel weights and wheels reversed I would have had to tell them what I had been doing and they would have had every right to have refused to do the work under waranty. The cost of that little repair would have been over $300. When they asked me what was I doing I could look them in the face and tell them what I was doing when it bent. They told me that the reason that it usually bends is because you jamb the machine into the work, but I hadn't did that either. When they looked at the machine they told me that one of the inside welds had only one weld pass and that it needed three passes. For the first year I wanted to use the machine in a way that was reasonable just incase the machine was a dud I would have some rights but when the waranty is up you should have some idea of what the machine is like its weakness and its strength and then you can make a more knowlegable decision as to what changes you can make without damaging the machine. But I do like to hear from people that like to make changes to their machine I can learn from them and maybe avoid some pitfalls on the way. Keep up the good work.

 

[toy]

I figure that just about everybody that has used these couplings has had a similar experience, Just remember when you cut the machine off wait a few seconds and then operate the curl handle back and forth to let it bleed off the pressure in the implement before disconnecting the hoses.

 

[toy]

Both ends coming from the valve on my quick attach came with male ends and the ones going to the plate are both female It is the pto that has a male and a female end on the tractor and a male and a female end on the emplement to keep you from reversing the hoses and running the emplement backwards and wondering why the thing isn't doing the work it should.

 

[toy]

I know what you were talking about now about changing the ends around , but I guess I'm charmed in this because seems like I always hook mine the same way each time. I'm not looking at my machine at this time to see if there is something that causes me to hook it up consistantly the same way, but I will look maybe its the way the hoses are run. Just thinking about it though on my mini hoe the hose that comes through the left bracket I hook to the left hose and the one that runs through the bracket on the right I hook on the right hose.

 

[FOURTEEN]

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[MossRoad]

The snowplow we have has both the hoses coming out of the same place. So sometimes up is right and sometimes up is left. That is why it would be nice to have male and female connectors; the consistency in operation.

 

[FOURTEEN]

I planned to buy extra connectors so as to have a male and female connector on the PT-425 and each attachment to provide consistency of connection and keep the ends clean when not in use. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

So far I have gone the cheap route with rubber table leg caps, and red tape on one connector of each set!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[toy]

i looked at my snow plow and you are right consistancy is important and both hoses comes out the right side. My snow blade has one of the hoses the one on the end of the cylinder that pulls it back in h as been run down to the fitting on the other end and is tie wrapped there making it shorter than the other the short end of the hose that is on the snow blade goes on the right side of the quick attach and the long one goes on the left side. If yours is not tied up that way, then always remember that the hose on the pulling in of the cylinder side goes on theright side and the one that pushes the cylinder out goes on the left side. If yours doesn't have it to where one of the hoses is shorter than the other because of the tie wrap, you could mark one of the hoses on each of the emplements and mark the hose on the machine to match which hose you want it to connect to. Thet way you have consistancy without changing any couplings. Since on my machine the hoses are routed so that it is easy to distinguish which hose goes where I never gave it much thought.I hope this tip might help you to get consistancy without going to the expense of changing out couplings. I beleive that consistancy is very important not only for convenience but also for a safety reason. Another thought on hoses if you do ever have to replace a hose try to get the identacle size[length] hose and rout it the same way it is routed on the machine by doing this you can save yourself a lot of frustration and money.