Rear Blade Hydraulic Cylinders on 950 blade

[3Ts]

I'm looking at the Rhino 850 and 950 grading blades. It seems they are similar except the 950 can have a rear wheel added. The 850 probably could as well but would need to have one fabricated. The used market has very few available and the ones that are, are a long ways away to the point it is not practical to go that route. The new market seems to be very expensive but includes the cylinders and hoses. I will have to have my own hoses made up since I will have to have an electric solenoid selector on the blade. So, I was thinking about getting a manual blade and adding generic cylinders and hoses made locally. I'm also hoping to save a little with generic cylinders. I've checked the manuals I can find and don't see the cylinder sizes. Does anyone know what the cylinder sizes are for offset, angle, tilt, and the rear wheel?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Before you purchase a blade with the manual adjustors, see if they will sell the blade with no adjustors at all. I know that Land Pride will do this and the cost of the manual adjustors alone pays for generic welded cylinders which are better than the typical tie rod cylinders used on most rear blades.

Also, you might want to think about installing that diverter valve on your tractor instead of the blade. That way you have all those hydraulic connections available for other implements, not just for use on the rear blade.

I also recommend that you get skid shoes. I found them to just make grading easier all around.

 

[3Ts]

Also, you might want to think about installing that diverter valve on your tractor instead of the blade. That way you have all those hydraulic connections available for other implements, not just for use on the rear blade.

I also recommend that you get skid shoes. I found them to just make grading easier all around.

Actually, I'd not even thought about mounting the diverter on the tractor, but I like that idea better. As for the skid shoes making grading easier - - even with the tail wheel? I'd think the tail wheel would be more effective since the blade would be between two support points like a road grader.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Actually, I'd not even thought about mounting the diverter on the tractor, but I like that idea better. As for the skid shoes making grading easier - - even with the tail wheel? I'd think the tail wheel would be more effective since the blade would be between two support points like a road grader.

Yes, even with a tail wheel. They will help prevent the blade edge from gouging. The gauge wheel is only in the center, so the blade will still tip side-side.

If the tractor that you plan on using this behind has Draft Control, in my opinion you don't even need a tail wheel. (gauge wheel) If it were me, I would save $1000 and not get the gauge wheel. If you end up not happy using Draft Control, then get the gauge wheel. But believe me, as long as you understand how your draft control works and are able to get it set properly, you do not need a gauge wheel.

If you do not have Draft Control, (really any tractor truly capable of using a 950 series blade would have Draft Control) then yes a gauge wheel will be advantages.

Picture is of my tractor with the 3 factory rear remotes and a double diverter setup to get me a total of 5 rear remotes.

 

[LouNY]

If the tractor that you plan on using this behind has Draft Control, in my opinion you don't even need a tail wheel. (gauge wheel) If it were me, I would save $1000 and not get the gauge wheel. If you end up not happy using Draft Control, then get the gauge wheel. But believe me, as long as you understand how your draft control works and are able to get it set properly, you do not need a gauge wheel.

I have used draft control for tillage implements but I fail to see were it would be more usefull then the rear depth control wheel on a back blade.
If the blade is pulling harder and the draft control raises the 3 point it will be making a high spot or filling in a low spot reduces the pull force the draft control will lower the lift and cause the blade to dig deeper.
With a blade trying to level or dig a consistent depth ditch draft control will cause more problems then position control.
I know when I'm ditching or leveling my draft control is turned all the way to the no effect position.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have used draft control for tillage implements but I fail to see were it would be more usefull then the rear depth control wheel on a back blade.
If the blade is pulling harder and the draft control raises the 3 point it will be making a high spot or filling in a low spot reduces the pull force the draft control will lower the lift and cause the blade to dig deeper.
With a blade trying to level or dig a consistent depth ditch draft control will cause more problems then position control.
I know when I'm ditching or leveling my draft control is turned all the way to the no effect position.

To start with, I did not say that Draft Control was better than having a gauge wheel setup. I said "in my opinion you don't even need a tail wheel."
Like I said, "as long as you understand how your draft control works and are able to get it set properly you don't even need a tail wheel", When I set mine, which is a 9' blade behind a 12,000lb machine, the blade moves less than 1/8" up or down and I just move along as if nothing has ever happened. Now the settings need to be different if I'm making a 3" cut vs a 2" cut or how ever much I'm cutting at the time.

You also need to be realistic about how deep of a cut you can make and still keep moving. Sure if you try making a 5"-6" cut you will have large corrections for pressure being exerted. For my conditions on my property, I have found that a 3" cut is about maximum and still get a good even cut.

If you are dealing with rocks and what not, it isn't going to make a difference what you do, either the rock is gone over with the blade being raised or it's getting pulled out.

I understand that everyone's conditions are different in some way, that's why I said to try using Draft Control first, then spend the money on the gauge wheel if you don't like the results using Draft Control. I doubt he will save any money purchasing the gauge wheel with blade vs after the initial purchase.

 

[oosik]

I recently purchased a Rhino 950 and all manual controls. I agree with Brian( Mt View Ranch ) and as soon I have more experience with the draft control on my Kubota M6040 - things will go smoother. It's a fantastic heavy duty blade. I had and sold a Land Pride RB3596 that weighed 565#. It was a great blade also - just didn't have the weight required to "penetrate" my driveway after spring rains and it sets up like concrete.

The Rhino definitely has the weight and now I can do those things required during the summer. Crowning - ditch maintenance - and repair of my one "bad area" on the driveway. My driveway is a mile long gravel affair. I have one section - ~ 120 feet - that never had enough base layer. However - it's the one thing that I alway look forward to fixing and regrading after every spring. Otherwise - what would a guy have to do - - ha, ha.


View attachment 580518

 

[LouNY]

To start with, I did not say that Draft Control was better than having a gauge wheel setup. I said "in my opinion you don't even need a tail wheel."
Like I said, "as long as you understand how your draft control works and are able to get it set properly you don't even need a tail wheel", When I set mine, which is a 9' blade behind a 12,000lb machine, the blade moves less than 1/8" up or down and I just move along as if nothing has ever happened. Now the settings need to be different if I'm making a 3" cut vs a 2" cut or how ever much I'm cutting at the time.

You also need to be realistic about how deep of a cut you can make and still keep moving. Sure if you try making a 5"-6" cut you will have large corrections for pressure being exerted. For my conditions on my property, I have found that a 3" cut is about maximum and still get a good even cut.

If you are dealing with rocks and what not, it isn't going to make a difference what you do, either the rock is gone over with the blade being raised or it's getting pulled out.

I understand that everyone's conditions are different in some way, that's why I said to try using Draft Control first, then spend the money on the gauge wheel if you don't like the results using Draft Control. I doubt he will save any money purchasing the gauge wheel with blade vs after the initial purchase.

It sounds to me as if you are using position control more then draft control.
But to each his own.
I believe the original poster and most users would benefit more with the gauge wheels as it will help to maintain a level surface.
That is my opinion and my :2cents:
Others may feel different but until they have used gauge wheels how do you know?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

It sounds to me as if you are using position control more then draft control.
But to each his own.
I believe the original poster and most users would benefit more with the gauge wheels as it will help to maintain a level surface.
That is my opinion and my :2cents:
Others may feel different but until they have used gauge wheels how do you know?

For my use, I know that gauge wheels would do me no good because I get the finished grade that I desire without them, as smooth and even as anyone could ask for.

As far as me using Position Control more than Draft Control, I use them in conjunction with each other. It is not a one or the other type of use, but a combined use.

Again, as far as the OP, my suggestion is to not order the gauge wheel and try your hand using both Position Control and Draft Control as a combined effort. If you like the outcome, then you saved a lot of $$$$. If not, then order the gauge wheels and be happy. Either way, GET THE SKID SHOES.

I have saved several people a lot of $$$$ with this advice. It's the OP's choice if he decides to try it or not.

 

[oosik]

That is EXACTLY why I am still learning on the rear blade. Position and draft control go together. Actually you can run position control all by itself - not so with draft control. When I bought the Rhino 950 I didn't even ask about the gauge wheels - the 950 was expensive enough without extras.

By the Great Horny Spoons - I will learn draft/position sooner or later. Thank God - I've got hydraulic top link and that certainly helps.