Oil & Fuel Hydraulic Filter Question

kennyd · Oct 19, 2010

Cidertom said:
It (high pressure filter) was added after a bunch of issues surrounding the 3pt. It fixed the drop-recover problem that surfaced first in the 42/43/4400 with a change in the rock shaft valve.

Correct. Forgetting about any filter is a bad idea.

Brimstone10x · Oct 20, 2010

That filter is in the steering/ hydro charge line and has nothing to do with the hitch.They did have issues with the screen in the rockshaft valve inlet fitting blowing out and maybe a partical of debris getting in the rockshaft valve on the four thousands .deere added an inline filter to the line between the scv and the rockshaft valve.(that was a whole different tractor) Now back to the filter in question, its there to protect the steering valve and E hydro unit. just saying by removing it cleaning it it and reinstalling it you run the risk of introducing dirt/debris into the system or causing a leak, 99.9% of the time the filter is clean as a whistle. I would not touch it unless the steering or hydro were having a problem.

Riderguy · Dec 31, 2010

9973720wb19 said:
I just changed the Hydo/Trans fluid and suction filter (housed in a canister) in my 3720 and it leaked from the canister lid. Look on JD Parts drawing and saw there are two O-rings (one at the lid and one on the other end of the filter) that I did not see coming out? Purchased both to re-do. In doing so, decided to only use one O-ring at the canister lid because the filter was so much smaller than the O-ring it seemed the O-ring would "float" in the canister. I guess is that they have changed the filter and did not rework the metal canister...All done...no leaks running great.

I did all the fluids and filters a couple of days ago. I took my time as I've never worked on a tractor before. LOTS of fluid in this sucker!

Looking in my parts manual I also see there is an o-ring on the end of the filter that goes into the machine first. When I pulled out the used filter I did not specifically notice an o-ring and did not notice one on the new filter. That's not to say they weren't there, just that I didn't notice them. The manual did not mention replacing an o-ring in the fluid/filter change procedure. I put the new filter in and had to push it a little bit to get it to set. The cannister lid did have an o-ring on the lid and that was intact when I reinstalled the lid. Are you saying that you did not use an o-ring on the end that goes into the machine first? Is this a new design without an o-ring, and most importantly did I screw up by not taking an old o-ring off the old filter and installing it on the new filter? My 3720 was made in May of 2009.

I''ve operated the tractor for about a half hour and I don't see any leaks near the cannister, hydraulic drain bolt oil, fuel and fuel sediments filters, so I think I did everything OK, but time will tell.

Thanks for any info you can share,

9973720wb19 · Jan 1, 2011

I think you're good. Are approach was different, but (i think) we ended up with the same result. I did not notice any O-rings on either side of my trans canister filter nor were any O-rings mentioned in the manual. When I put it back together the first time, the canister lid leaked. After re-tightening it, it still leaked. I saw a drawing on the JD website showing O-rings at each side of the filter. However, it did not seem to make sense putting an o-ring on the inside because it was a molded metal unti therefore had a natural seal. The o-ring seemed to fit nicely on the lid end...so that what I did. Not had a problem. in the end,it was o-ring on lid end of the filter only.

ginkgo2628 · Nov 1, 2012

Cidertom said:
It (high pressure filter) was added after a bunch of issues surrounding the 3pt. It fixed the drop-recover problem that surfaced first in the 42/43/4400 with a change in the rock shaft valve.

Hi out there in Tractor Land. I'm a first-timer here. I have a JD 3320, 2009. My 3-point lift is VERY VERY stiff and it takes a LOT of pull to get it to go either up or down. I've read about the rock shaft and the tensioning nut. Anyone had experience with this? I know I am very late in doing hydraulic fluid and filter changes. Would this exacerbate the problem? Is it the rock shaft valve? Any repair diagrams?
Also-- the automatic shut-off which relieves the lift pressure upon reaching the full "up" position does not kick in-- ie: it keeps wanting to lift. Suggestions?
Many thanks- Stephan Brown, medicinal herb farmer from Cape Cod (the sand spit ! )

olllotj · Dec 27, 2015

My lva14167 in line filter appears to be crushed when I removed it for cleaning. Anyone ever see that? Or do you have a picture of what they should look like?

beenthere · Dec 27, 2015

olllotj
That looks normal, as they are hex shape. And the sub for the LVA14167 appears to be LVA12726.

You can see the parts if you go to jdparts.com and do the free register. Then put in your tractor model #, and go to the alphabetical listing... you will see all the parts for your tractor and their #'s.

beenthere · Dec 27, 2015

ginkgo2628 said:
Hi out there in Tractor Land. I'm a first-timer here. I have a JD 3320, 2009. My 3-point lift is VERY VERY stiff and it takes a LOT of pull to get it to go either up or down. I've read about the rock shaft and the tensioning nut. Anyone had experience with this? I know I am very late in doing hydraulic fluid and filter changes. Would this exacerbate the problem? Is it the rock shaft valve? Any repair diagrams?
Also-- the automatic shut-off which relieves the lift pressure upon reaching the full "up" position does not kick in-- ie: it keeps wanting to lift. Suggestions?
Many thanks- Stephan Brown, medicinal herb farmer from Cape Cod (the sand spit ! )

ginkgo
Sorry to see that you never rec'd a response to your question. Prolly too late now, but :welcome: to TBN

olllotj · Dec 29, 2015

This is what I was talking about. It looks crushed.

I called the dealer and found out they updated the part. I replaced it, It's much larger. Any ideas what happened?