Hydraulic gauge install

myyaz33 · Mar 8, 2017

Ok. Gotcha.. Yes they should interchange just fine as mine did. If were a long term thing that would stay on, then mating the pairs would make sense.

Gregster613 · Mar 9, 2017

Okay and Thanks big time! That's exactly what I was searching for. I'm going to order several sets then, to be ready for whenever I get to my diverter install. I just wanted to ensure they would fit into the Korean fittings already installed. It'll make everything much simpler.
Appreciate the info. Greg

Xfaxman · Mar 10, 2017

The shown gauge set-up I referred to was by Xfaxman in a separate post.

Here it is, one male connector, one female connector, can be plugged in in either direction, in line or dead headed.

myyaz33 · Mar 10, 2017

Gregster613 said:
I'm going to order several sets then, to be ready for whenever I get to my diverter install.

If you haven't ordered these already, I'd ask how you intend to use these for your diverter install? What are you looking to add that you would put these on?

Gregster613 · Mar 13, 2017

Marty, I planned to install my diverter on the loader arm [like you did] and I need to use two QD's on the diverter so that I can still easily remove the loader if needed. The two raise/lower lines will remain as is, but the curl/dump will be changed.
My 4 lines now go to QD's at the loader hard-lines, {they are hard screwed into the loader valve and have QD's just as enter the hard lines. The curl circuit will be interrupted and needs to go from diverter to the hard-lines. Which is why I was trying to find QD's that matched/interchanged. I can hard screw they into the diverter as they go to the hard-lines, but the feed lines need to be able to be detached.
Thus, I believe I need at least two sets for the diverter and I'll need to more at the bucket end, plus I want to create a gauge. I believe I'm looking at 5 sets at least. Plus, If they do interchange with the Korean KWANG style; it won't hurt to have several as spares on hand.
Have I confused you even more now? Ha! I believe I've got a handle on it but I haven't yet ordered the 7241-A's that you suggested yet. Other projects derailed me for a weekend. I will be getting on it soon though.
Thanks, Greg

myyaz33 · Mar 13, 2017

Hey Greg, I had to read your post quite a few times before I realized that what you were explaining was that your loader is plumbed differently than mine. I went back and looked at one of your original posts where you had pictures of your new 273 and definitely see your loader is plumbed different than mine. I've attached some pictures which should explain why I was asking for more detail. Hopefully these are useful in helping you get yours done, but it does sound like you are on the right track. It's unfortunate because the plate that they outfitted mine with with having the 4 quick disconnects made it really easy to plumb and remove the loader. I only had to worry about making the electrical connector for the diverter easily disconnected.

Gregster613 · Mar 14, 2017

Hi Marty, Yes mine is plumbed quite differently. Guess I should have explained that better. My disconnects are all at the hard-lines [where yours are screwed in] my hoses give plenty of room for flexibility but down at the valve - it's Quite Tight. I will need (2) QD's at the diverter, which isn't really a problem - just different from most. Thanks for the renewal view of your set-up! Reminds me of a few items I'll be asking you later - like how did you choose to do the electrical? Run a separate line to the battery is my thought. The switch in/on the joystick is going to be problematic also; I think.
I'm not close to there yet however. I read a lot about many people needing to use a relay too; that sorta confuses me some. I have much to think out/work on before I get completed. One quick question though, If I do this in stages, IE buy and mount the diverter first - connect the curl system lines, in and out of the diverter, but not finish the rest - can I still use the bucket curl system without plumbing the grapple lines until later? Will I need to put plugs in the diverter inlets/outlets that are not used? If so, I can work on this a piece at a time as funds/projects allow. Your thoughts?
Thanks, Greg

myyaz33 · Mar 14, 2017

I will have to double check on exactly how I ran the electrical. I think I just tapped into the auxiliary wire that was under the seat/wheel well, but I will check back to you for sure. I know I did not use relay so that probably means I did run off the fused aux wire like i imagined. The diverter does not draw much at all so it really didnt need it. You can do it in stages if you plug the unused ports as mentioned. That will cost you a few extra bucks for plugs... Just make sure you get the correct ports hooked up for when the diverter is not energized. In my diverter that was ports C & D

You know, I have some hoses that I got the incorrect fittings on, this may be an opportunity to find a use for them. If you have an opportunity, could you take a couple of pictures of the hoses and fittings on your loader and send them my way?

Gregster613 · Mar 15, 2017

Marty, I'll see what I can come up with for pictures of my hoses/valve block. I don't have any type of smart phone at all - just a dumb one like me - so I'll dig out the camera this weekend, snap a few shots, and then struggle to figure out the down/up load/re-size process and see what comes out. I haven't done any of that for several years. Need to find proper cords, etc., etc. Bear with me and I'll get it - eventually. Thanks for all your advice/suggestions.
Greg

myyaz33 · Mar 18, 2017

I did verify I tapped into the rear auxiliary wire and took it to the joystick then diverter. Just put in a bullet splice near the hydraulic quick connects for removing the loader. Ground is right near the diverter on one of the screws that holds the steel hydraulic loader lines to the loader arm. No relay was used.