Hydraulic Leak- Kubota BX 2200

[goOrange]

Good Morning everyone, even though I am a new member to this site, I have been reading it since I purchased my first tractor, a 2000 Kubota Bx 2200 currently with only 348 hours! What a machine.

I was wondering if someone could help me. I noticed last night while cutting the lawn, when the tractor is running and I come to a stop, I am leaking fluid. If you were sitting on the machine, it would be on your left side. After checking around, I noticed that I appear to be leaking fluid from under the machine,behind the rear tire (left side if sitting on it), where two steel lines go into this valve(?)

I have attached two photos of it. I was wondering what is this and does it look like the steel lines had backed out and this might be the reason for the leak?

It only leaks when tractor is running.

Thanks for any/all help in advance!!

Jeff

 

[BrianR]

That block with the line coming out of the left side, is the pressure line for your loader controls or rear remote hydraulics, whichever you have.

 

[cboudreau]

Hi, I had a line at the rear of my BX2360 leak....by the looks of the picture, I don't think it's the same one, but I can't be sure. Mine leaked where the steel line was joined to the hydraulic housing. It might not be the same line, but it's the same type of fitting. The steel line cracks with vibration. Mine was replaced 2 or 3 times before the dealer took off the steel line and put on a proper hydraulic hose and fittings.

I don't know much about hydraulics, but my brother-in-law does....he was surprised they used this type of fitting on these lines....not great news, but the fix isn't that big of a deal.

If you search for my other posts, you'll find the thread.

Chris

 

[goOrange]

Thanks Brian. Do you know if the lines should be flush with the block? I was wondering if the somehow became loose and pulled back, but the line isn't losoe when I grabbed it.

Jeff

 

[BX Dan]

I own the same bx. My steel line for the loader had a leak and I had to replace the line. I had to remove that block because the threads on a fitting were bad. That block bolts to the hydraulic port with the two bolts you see. The block has O ring on the back of it that seals the two surfaces together, you could try and tighten them along with the two fittings. I would clean that area to see exactly where the leak is, one of the fittings or from behind the block. There is a lot of pressure in the hydro lines, in the area 2000 psi or so a slightly loose fitting will leak as will an O ring that's gone bad well.

Good luck at least it not a pricey fix, Dan.

 

[goOrange]

Thanks guys for your help!! Its defineatelty a start as to where to look, hopefully I can get to it this week. I'll post an update.

Jeff

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Over the years I've occassionally had a line start leaking at a connection point. I've gotten out my open end wrench and tightened the offender a bit and the leak stopped.
As I said in an earlier post always start with the simplest fix and then move up to replacing every thing and worrying about it for days before working on the problem.
Yesterday one of my renters told me to call the HVAC guy who charges me $75 to step on my property. He said his AC keeps running and won't stop and he suggested it may be the thermostat. I went down and set the temp low and the AC ran properly and I set the temp higher than the temp at the thermostat and the AC quit properly. The wife then said it had ran for a couple of hours the day before and didn't quit. They have kids running in and out all the time as well as themselves and they open their doors and windows during the day then when the temp outside has been getting up to almost 80 degrees they maybe close all their doors and windows and set the AC thermostat which is poorly placed right across from the front door to 70 degrees. Yes, it's going to run for a few hours in a mobile home before it can dehumidify and get the temp dropped 20 degrees. Told them to try it and then call if it didn't kick off last night. Haven't heard from them.
Again, start with the simple stuff first, then move on to major repairs. Guess I wonder how many major repairs have been done when a simple push on a wire or tightening of a nut would have fixed it.
I fixed my B7800 that wouldn't start about 3 different ways 3 different times before someone on this board told about the B7800 issue with the foot pedal had to be dead center before it would start, more so than on other models. From then on I just made sure the pedal was dead centered and it always started.

 

[RaydaKub]

As mentioned previously, those 3 lines come off that block and go up front to the loader hydraulics. I replaced all 3 of mine last fall because of corrosion (and an unexpected ding with a little grinder . Total cost for all 3 was $90, but as mentioned, start with the easy stuff first.

 

[goOrange]

Okay, so yesterday I removed the rear tire and cleaned the block to determine where the leak was coming from, and found it to be at the threaded connection for the lower line on the block.

After removing the line and using teflon tape and connecting everythink back together, it is still leaking, and appears to be at the fitting itself where it connects into the block. The two bolts holding the block to the hydraulic controller were tight.

Maybe I used not enough or too much teflon. Will try later this week to remove it again, and re-do. Does anyone know if I can removed the block without causing any further problems?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[dennisgw]

Mine leaked right after the dealer delivered it. They sent a mechanic out. He swapped out an o-ring in the small block. When they setup the FEL they had to attach the block and felt it was nicked in the process. Also recommended teflon paste as opposed to the tape. I removed my fittings and replaced with the paste. Other leaks also stopped. Live and learn. Minor issue in the big picture.