hydraulic lever extensions
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MadReferee
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Do you want to make them longer or extend them further away from the valve?
To make them longer you can cut them and weld in a new extension; or fab a new set; or see if the manufacturer of your valve sells extended levers as an option.
To extend them away from the valve you will have to make up some new linkage and brackets; or you can simply move the valve body closer to where you will feel more comfortable using it.
To make them longer you can cut them and weld in a new extension; or fab a new set; or see if the manufacturer of your valve sells extended levers as an option.
To extend them away from the valve you will have to make up some new linkage and brackets; or you can simply move the valve body closer to where you will feel more comfortable using it.
Bedlam
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I was just looking at the hyd. top link at http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm
Is this the one you have?
I plan on getting one for myself. I assumed that you controled it by a seperat valve. Or is there a built in valve?
thanks
AL
Is this the one you have?
I plan on getting one for myself. I assumed that you controled it by a seperat valve. Or is there a built in valve?
thanks
AL
3RRL
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VT_Kioti
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Bedlam
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No I dont have that setup , but I have a sererate valve that I use for plow swing. Id just T into that one. Of cource not use them both at once.LOL
Thanks for the pic. It really helps, wish the companys would have a section where the customers could post a few pics of their products.
Is your link the one I was asking about from http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm
Or is it another company? I like the gauge on it.
Allan
Thanks for the pic. It really helps, wish the companys would have a section where the customers could post a few pics of their products.
Is your link the one I was asking about from http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm
Or is it another company? I like the gauge on it.
Allan
Thanks to all. Sorry for taking so long to get back on here, had a busy day at church yesterday.
Vt Kioti,
Thanks for the pic, that is what I need to do.
Bedlam,
My machine has built in hydraulic hook ups and remotes. Can't help you on the aftermarket hook ups.
I didn't get the CCM top link, I think mine is made by Tysco. It doesn't have the valve or position indicator like 3RRL 's fancy one. After looking around, I don't think there is a significant price difference between the two,( I found this out after I bought mine). I'm not pushing or bashing any particular brand, but even though my Tysco cylinder works fine I would go with the CCM cylinder if I had to do it over again. Seems like you get more for the money.
-Gavin
Vt Kioti,
Thanks for the pic, that is what I need to do.
Bedlam,
My machine has built in hydraulic hook ups and remotes. Can't help you on the aftermarket hook ups.
I didn't get the CCM top link, I think mine is made by Tysco. It doesn't have the valve or position indicator like 3RRL 's fancy one. After looking around, I don't think there is a significant price difference between the two,( I found this out after I bought mine). I'm not pushing or bashing any particular brand, but even though my Tysco cylinder works fine I would go with the CCM cylinder if I had to do it over again. Seems like you get more for the money.
-Gavin
MadReferee
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( No I dont have that setup , but I have a sererate valve that I use for plow swing. Id just T into that one)</font>
Bedlam,
If you want the hydraulics to work correctly you cannot just "T" into an existing line. All valves must be in series with all but the last (usually the 3pt) having power beyond.
Bedlam,
If you want the hydraulics to work correctly you cannot just "T" into an existing line. All valves must be in series with all but the last (usually the 3pt) having power beyond.
Dancce(TBN name) from Creek County Equipment Company in Depew, Oklahoma showed me a device that made one remote valve into two. It hooked up electrically and you could put a switch on the lever to switch remotes. Looked to be a good idea. I can't remember the price, I think it was something like $250, but don't hold me to it. It was alot cheaper than adding another hyd. line. I got a quote for around $1400 to have that done.
3RRL
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks for the pic. It really helps...Is your link the one I was asking about from http://www.ccmachinery.com/TNT.htm
Or is it another company? I like the gauge on it.)</font>
Allan and Gavman,
That picture is not from the CCM link or any other company, but of my own tractor with their top link (CCM hyd cylinder) mounted on it. The level indicator gauge is one I made myself, copying theirs and others I've seen. I posted a thread on making it a while back. Just CLICK HERE to see how I made it. It was fun.
Also, I don't know enough about hydraulics to advise you whether or not you can "T" off another line. I think Mad is right by having to keep the valves in series. I do know that the guys at CCM can and will advise you on what you have to do. They will be advising me when I buy the side link tilting hydraulics from them. They also will be selling me the controls for that so they'll have to tell me how to do it anyway. But they are really good people and will help you.
Hope you like that level indicater thread.
Or is it another company? I like the gauge on it.)</font>
Allan and Gavman,
That picture is not from the CCM link or any other company, but of my own tractor with their top link (CCM hyd cylinder) mounted on it. The level indicator gauge is one I made myself, copying theirs and others I've seen. I posted a thread on making it a while back. Just CLICK HERE to see how I made it. It was fun.
Also, I don't know enough about hydraulics to advise you whether or not you can "T" off another line. I think Mad is right by having to keep the valves in series. I do know that the guys at CCM can and will advise you on what you have to do. They will be advising me when I buy the side link tilting hydraulics from them. They also will be selling me the controls for that so they'll have to tell me how to do it anyway. But they are really good people and will help you.
Hope you like that level indicater thread.
Bedlam
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I think I understand what you mean.
right now I have a seperate valve inline to the hyd. loop. it has two outputs, that go on a seperate hose to the plow and I use it for swinging the plow. If I were to place a T into the outlets, I dont see how it would be different than running 16 feet of hose from the tractor front to the rear to run the piston.
The oil would have to go through either hose. And if the plow cylinder was disconnected, It should go to the rear hoses and cylinder.
I would have to disconnect the rear cylinder tho to use the plow swings.
Does this make any sence?
Thanks for your post.
Allan
right now I have a seperate valve inline to the hyd. loop. it has two outputs, that go on a seperate hose to the plow and I use it for swinging the plow. If I were to place a T into the outlets, I dont see how it would be different than running 16 feet of hose from the tractor front to the rear to run the piston.
The oil would have to go through either hose. And if the plow cylinder was disconnected, It should go to the rear hoses and cylinder.
I would have to disconnect the rear cylinder tho to use the plow swings.
Does this make any sence?
Thanks for your post.
Allan
MadReferee
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Sounds like you have one rear remote.
Teeing into either of the work ports (the 2 outputs as you call them) will not give you an additional function. What it will do is enable you to use that same function for different implements, say one in the rear or one in the front. The only catch is that you cannot have both implements connected at the same time, as you pointed out.
However, you can get a hydraulic multiplier from V & M Inc. that will work similar to a diverter. Take a look see.
Teeing into either of the work ports (the 2 outputs as you call them) will not give you an additional function. What it will do is enable you to use that same function for different implements, say one in the rear or one in the front. The only catch is that you cannot have both implements connected at the same time, as you pointed out.
However, you can get a hydraulic multiplier from V & M Inc. that will work similar to a diverter. Take a look see.
