3-Point Hitch Hydraulic lifts slowly drop over night

[Soundguy]

It tells how to remove the complete hydraulic lift cover and assy. which is a major teardown requiring removing the tires, fenders, ROPS, and fuel tank. .

YIKES!.. just made a mental note of that. won't ever own one!!!!! I hate it when they make stuff really.. really.. really hard to work on...

soundguy

 

[Eastbx]

Eastbx, I forgot to ask IMPORTANT QUESTION (not sure if it's similar case like mine), which could change a lot - does the lift lever You're operating 3PH with, slowly drops TOGETHER with the lifting arms?

Mine L Kubota has an 'issue' - the lifting arms slowly move down with the lift lever while the engine running at idle speed, in my case because of vibration. But I don't care.

To answer this question the lift lever does not drop with the 3PH.

Now gentlemen, I am willing to go through all the work of removing that piston to get to the seal but is there anything else related like the seat of the check valve or the check valve itself in the cylinder head assembly, that I, as a novice, can check and change first? My father, God rest his soul, always said "Let's do the obvious before we do the ridiculous".
I have checked the 3PH with a moderate load, very old two disk plow, and there was no pulse nor did it drop while I was plowing in the field, getting to and from etc.
Jinman,
can you or anyone indicate, from the photos of the tractor, where the panel that can give me access to the piston should I have to do "the ridiculous". I am familiar with plowing and preparing a field for planting but not much of a mechanic.
I'm hoping it'll hold as is until I finish my current project, preparing two acres for planting, before it becomes a true issue.
Gentlemen, again thank you so very much for all the help and suggestion they are GREATLY appreciated!

 

[JC-jetro]

it does not look too bad. It seems the top two bolts on the top of the cylinder head support the panel that the seat is mounted on. If you zoom out it might give more clue. from this angle it appears to me taking the seat of and the sheet metal that seat is attchedd to is all you need to expose the front of the head and removing the 6 bolts and you can remove the head. The actual cylinder is at least 12" long so you have to remove enough in front of the head to fully withdraw the cylinder.

JC,

 

[Eastbx]

it does not look too bad. It seems the top two bolts on the top of the cylinder head support the panel that the seat is mounted on. If you zoom out it might give more clue. from this angle it appears to me taking the seat of and the sheet metal that seat is attchedd to is all you need to expose the front of the head and removing the 6 bolts and you can remove the head. The actual cylinder is at least 12" long so you have to remove enough in front of the head to fully withdraw the cylinder.

JC,

So, once I remove the cylinder assembly I'll be able to remove the piston, right. How is the piston attached? Any special tools to remove it?

Eastbx

 

[JC-jetro]

So, once I remove the cylinder assembly I'll be able to remove the piston, right. How is the piston attached? Any special tools to remove it?

Eastbx

I'd suggest that you visit the thread I made about my work. it has many pics and shows step by step. I have put a link to my thread in one of my previous post in this thread. Once you get the head lose, by withdrawing the head the piston will come out as a whole assembly. cylinder easily come of from the head assembly as a big rubber o-ring ties them together. once you take the cylinder off the simply force the piston out toward the head. examine the piston and the seals, and inside of cylinder wall for scoring sign. Do make sure to take a mental note of the orientation of piston for reassembly and lip orientation of the seal. you will not have two chances to put it in. taking the seal off for sure damages it beyond repair. don't force it use plenty of hyd oil to lubricate to get the new seal to fit in the piston groove.
The movement of the piston back and forth will push a fat rod that translate to rotational movement of rockshaft and the lift arms. make sure the rod is in the back cylinder and against the convex back part of the piston. All pics are shown on my thread.

JC,

 

[ArtMech]

To answer this question the lift lever does not drop with the 3PH.

OK, then it changes nothing.

JC-jetro's piston seal replacement technology is very helpful and clear.

Now, just before repair I would advice You to contact Your nearest dealer or parts supplier to find out whether they have the parts You need. Or how long it'll take them to order the parts for You. They'll ask for tractor identification number or some more details about Your machine. Be ready for that.

 

[jinman]

JC told you about the cover, but here is a zoom of the area in the attachment. The valve in the foreground is your PTO valve that operates the PTO clutch. Hopefully, it will not be in the way of removing the 3PH lift cyl. cover. I would not recommend that you disturb this valve or try to remove it. It has tubes running down inside the casing and is something you don't want to deal with in addition to the lift cylinder.

Also, go to this link at messicks.com and type in TC40A in the box. Click the "Search" button and you will have a list of all your tractor's systems on the left. Click "Hydraulic System" and you will have numbered sub-systems. Click on 07.01 and 07.02 for the detailed diagrams of the hydraulic system and parts lists with prices on the right.

 

[Eastbx]

Thanks. You gentlemen are like a God send! I'll tackle this job right after project or when the 3PH gives out all together, which ever comes first....
Eastbx1

 

[sweettractors]

Gentlemen, I was noticing that the rear lift of my TC40A has been dropping over nights. I recently(2 days ago) changed the hyd filter is it possibly loose or something? Don't see any leaks from filter. Any suggestions?.. Is this normal after a filter change?

Most drop slowly. Ken Sweet

 

[ArtMech]

Also, go to this link at messicks.com

:thumbsup::thumbsup::drool::drool: