Hydraulic Oil Cooling Fan

[tlb13057]

The sensor may be bad but I don't know yet. What I do know is the motor froze up. I tried turning it in either direction and is extremely difficult. So this leads to two more questions:
1) Spal sells a (fan) motor that pushes or pulls air. I have not paid much attention to this so can someone tell me which version I need for a PT425 circa 2003?
2) Does anyone know the voltage & amperage rating of the motor and sensor?
3) Where is the sensor located.
4) Is there a fuse for the (fan) motor.
Thanks

 

[cqaigy2]

The sensor may be bad but I don't know yet. What I do know is the motor froze up. I tried turning it in either direction and is extremely difficult. So this leads to two more questions:
1) Spal sells a (fan) motor that pushes or pulls air. I have not paid much attention to this so can someone tell me which version I need for a PT425 circa 2003?
2) Does anyone know the voltage & amperage rating of the motor and sensor?
3) Where is the sensor located.
4) Is there a fuse for the (fan) motor.
Thanks

Well i haven't paid much attention either, but i'm assuming 12 volts, the sensor is wired in series with the fan and is mounted close by on the heat exchanger. I'm not sure i've seen a fuse anywhere on the PT. You could wire the fan direct to the battery and see if the fan moves. Oops gotta go.

 

[Marks481]

Fuse is mounted inside the canopy on the wire from the fan. Just trace the wire that goes to the temperature sensor on the inlet to the hydraulc cooler inside the canopy.

You could wire the fan direct to the battery and see if the fan moves.

+1

You can disconnect the postive wire of the fan from the temperature sensor (simple crimped on spade connector). Connect that to the battery, don't worry about the negative wire, chances are that is not the problem.

At least I think the sensor is inline with the positive side, but I haven't messed with it in a year or more.

 

[MossRoad]

Fuse is mounted inside the canopy on the wire from the fan. Just trace the wire that goes to the temperature sensor on the inlet to the hydraulc cooler inside the canopy.



+1

You can disconnect the postive wire of the fan from the temperature sensor (simple crimped on spade connector). Connect that to the battery, don't worry about the negative wire, chances are that is not the problem.

At least I think the sensor is inline with the positive side, but I haven't messed with it in a year or more.

Yes, the sensor is in line with the + side. When my sensor died I just unplugged the wire from the fan side of the sensor and put that into a 12V+ line that I had installed under the hood for a +12V receptacle that I hook a battery charger into at night in the winter. I currently unplug the fan each time I use it. Doubt I will ever replace the sensor but will probably put the fan on a switch and relay at some point in the future. At least with manual control of the fan, you know it is going to come on. If the sensor fails, the fan will never come on and you won't notice until you throttle back after 4 hours of mowing.

I put a small orange plastic flag on the top of my fan. I can glance back at any time and see it moving to confirm the fan is on without having to reach back and feel it with my hand. :thumbsup:

 

[SpringHollow]

I glance every so often at the temperature gauge I installed in my tank. It would have been kind of neat to put in a digital one and run it to the dash but I had a brand new dial thermometer that I got for free.

Ken

 

[cqaigy2]

Seems like i heard someone mention using the fan sensor to operate a relay that turned the fan on or off. Find a 12volt relay that can handle the current load of the fan and use the sensor to operate the relay and safe wear and tear on the expensive sensor.

 

[Marks481]

1) Spal sells a (fan) motor that pushes or pulls air.
2) Does anyone know the voltage & amperage rating of the motor and sensor?
3) Where is the sensor located.
4) Is there a fuse for the (fan) motor.

1. Pull fan (pulls air out of engine compartment)
2. 12v, 8 amp for motor
3. Sensor is bolted on inlet of oil cooler, mounted to the underside of the engine canopy
4. Fuse is tiewrapped to inside of canopy about 6" from sensor. YMMV, since I suspect PT doesn't have an established wiring plan.

Look at this thread for a picture of the sensor, and a description of that sensor:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/178598-pt-422-fan-temperature-switch.html

 

[BobRip]

If the fan is locked up, the fan is definitely bad.

 

[MossRoad]

1. Pull fan (pulls air out of engine compartment)
2. 12v, 8 amp for motor
3. Sensor is bolted on inlet of oil cooler, mounted to the underside of the engine canopy
4. Fuse is tiewrapped to inside of canopy about 6" from sensor. YMMV, since I suspect PT doesn't have an established wiring plan.

Look at this thread for a picture of the sensor, and a description of that sensor:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/178598-pt-422-fan-temperature-switch.html

The sensor on my 2001 model PT425 is located down in the engine compartment near the tram pump, not on or near the cooler. Must be yet another model year change. :laughing:

 

[MossRoad]

If the fan is locked up, the fan is definitely bad.

Yep. The fan should be able to turn freely without power. I wound check for a stick (as in tree branch) or obstruction in the fan just to be sure. I had one spoke of the plastic fan guard get poked out by a stick and that stopped my fan from turning. I removed it and all was well. Never hurts to inspect it, but is sounds like its toast.