JerryG
Super Member
rj,
How long have you had this tractor?
How long have you had this tractor?
Hydraulic problem / questions
- Thread starter rjfoster
- Start date
- Views: 3933
JerryG
Super Member
rj,
How long have you had this tractor?
How long have you had this tractor?
Farwell
Veteran Member
I disconnect the quick connects and join the hoses together, there will be some fluid loss but not much. I keep a bucket handy to catch any loss. Make sure that there is no pressure in the control valve. If yours is like mine I do not think I would mess with the pressure relief valve with out getting all of the possible information before hand. Mine is adjustable and not sure what has to be done to remove mine but if the factory adjustments are changed, I do not know how to reset it to where it should be. Not sure if you have contacted the dealer and talked to their repair guy but this is a good place to start if all else fails. I do it all the time and if they can't help, they tell me who to call to get the information I need.
Good luck.
Farwell
Good luck.
Farwell
Farwell
Veteran Member
I disconnect the quick connects and join the hoses together, there will be some fluid loss but not much. I keep a bucket handy to catch any loss. Make sure that there is no pressure in the control valve. If yours is like mine I do not think I would mess with the pressure relief valve with out getting all of the possible information before hand. Mine is adjustable and not sure what has to be done to remove mine but if the factory adjustments are changed, I do not know how to reset it to where it should be. Not sure if you have contacted the dealer and talked to their repair guy but this is a good place to start if all else fails. I do it all the time and if they can't help, they tell me who to call to get the information I need.
Good luck.
Farwell
Good luck.
Farwell
<font color="blue">Most tractors wil have 2 relief valves. The first is the system relief and it is located near the 3pt. The other is in the loader valve itself. It would be a cartridge that just unscrews.
</font>
Mad,
Do you think I could have a relief valve problem? I have a similar problem has this one I posted here:Loader Problem
I beleive I found and checked the relief valve on the manifold block, but I have figured out where it might be on the control valve. The CV is a Diesel Kiki that I cannot locate any info for.
Thanks!
</font>
Mad,
Do you think I could have a relief valve problem? I have a similar problem has this one I posted here:Loader Problem
I beleive I found and checked the relief valve on the manifold block, but I have figured out where it might be on the control valve. The CV is a Diesel Kiki that I cannot locate any info for.
Thanks!
<font color="blue">Most tractors wil have 2 relief valves. The first is the system relief and it is located near the 3pt. The other is in the loader valve itself. It would be a cartridge that just unscrews.
</font>
Mad,
Do you think I could have a relief valve problem? I have a similar problem has this one I posted here:Loader Problem
I beleive I found and checked the relief valve on the manifold block, but I have figured out where it might be on the control valve. The CV is a Diesel Kiki that I cannot locate any info for.
Thanks!
</font>
Mad,
Do you think I could have a relief valve problem? I have a similar problem has this one I posted here:Loader Problem
I beleive I found and checked the relief valve on the manifold block, but I have figured out where it might be on the control valve. The CV is a Diesel Kiki that I cannot locate any info for.
Thanks!
I was able to figure out where the relief valve was located- removed it and looked at the internal aspects of it. No blockages, etc.....
Did pay a little more attention to what is going on regarding the problem:
-curl up is unable to lift a load and is slow without a load
-upward movement of the entire bucket with a load does not move easily, while without a load it is fine
I am thinking that the pump will have to be removed and taken in for evaluation. Any other suggestions that I should try?
Did pay a little more attention to what is going on regarding the problem:
-curl up is unable to lift a load and is slow without a load
-upward movement of the entire bucket with a load does not move easily, while without a load it is fine
I am thinking that the pump will have to be removed and taken in for evaluation. Any other suggestions that I should try?
I was able to figure out where the relief valve was located- removed it and looked at the internal aspects of it. No blockages, etc.....
Did pay a little more attention to what is going on regarding the problem:
-curl up is unable to lift a load and is slow without a load
-upward movement of the entire bucket with a load does not move easily, while without a load it is fine
I am thinking that the pump will have to be removed and taken in for evaluation. Any other suggestions that I should try?
Did pay a little more attention to what is going on regarding the problem:
-curl up is unable to lift a load and is slow without a load
-upward movement of the entire bucket with a load does not move easily, while without a load it is fine
I am thinking that the pump will have to be removed and taken in for evaluation. Any other suggestions that I should try?
Farwell
Veteran Member
Do not know if this is a possibility, once in a while I accidently move the control for my rear remotes when they are not connected to anything, the same symptom that your are describing takes place with my loader and continue that way until I put the lever back into the neutral position. This is a bad thing for my tractor and could cause my hydraulic pump some serious damage. Do not know if you have a set up like this on your tractor, if you do it could be your problem.
Farwell
Farwell
Farwell
Veteran Member
Do not know if this is a possibility, once in a while I accidently move the control for my rear remotes when they are not connected to anything, the same symptom that your are describing takes place with my loader and continue that way until I put the lever back into the neutral position. This is a bad thing for my tractor and could cause my hydraulic pump some serious damage. Do not know if you have a set up like this on your tractor, if you do it could be your problem.
Farwell
Farwell
Marlowe
Gold Member
I'm no expert, but i've had my share of hydraulic problems. Some things I've learned:
Small tractors have a hydraulic system on them meant to operate primarily the 3pth. While they will produce the pressure needed to operate a FEL, it will usually be slow when compared with the ones designed for that purpose.
Hydraulics work better in cool weather. I've noticed that my tractor FEL gets really slow and noticeably weaker on a hot day, especially after I've worked it hard for a while. The oil heats up, gets thinner, and less pressure is produced.
The hydraulic pump is a gear mesh type pump, for lack of better words. I've had a great deal of experience with these pumps when I was an outboard mechanic. They use similar, although much smaller pumps in the trim systems. Trim systems experience similar failures such as slow action and lack of power. It was almost always something in the valving rather than the pump. The few times it was a bad pump it was caused by water contamination; not likely in a tractor. I'm sure tractor pumps go bad and lose pressure, but I'd expect another problem.
One problem we share that I know is not right; that change in engine tone when the implements are lifted all the way. Mine does that when the 3pth is all the way up. I've adjusted my stop to keep it from topping out, but it should go into a float mode at whatever postion you set the lever at and relieve the pressure on the pump. If it doen't, something is out of whack. I suspect mine is some sticky linkage on the hitch activator since it works better when I lube it. I haven't cornered the problem yet though , so for the time being I go with the stop on the lever adjustment to keep away from full up. I can run the FEL all the way up without leaving the pump in a bind, as long as I don't hold the handle down when the loader reaches its full travel. If you have an issue with your pump being in a constant bind it would definitely heat up your oil excessively causing a loss of pressure.
Another thing I've learned about tractor hydraulics; it's hard to find someone who really understands how and why they work, let alone why they don't.
Good luck with it. I know how frustrating it can be. Other than wheel bearings, the only thing I've ever needed to fix on my tractor has been the hydraulics.
Tom
Small tractors have a hydraulic system on them meant to operate primarily the 3pth. While they will produce the pressure needed to operate a FEL, it will usually be slow when compared with the ones designed for that purpose.
Hydraulics work better in cool weather. I've noticed that my tractor FEL gets really slow and noticeably weaker on a hot day, especially after I've worked it hard for a while. The oil heats up, gets thinner, and less pressure is produced.
The hydraulic pump is a gear mesh type pump, for lack of better words. I've had a great deal of experience with these pumps when I was an outboard mechanic. They use similar, although much smaller pumps in the trim systems. Trim systems experience similar failures such as slow action and lack of power. It was almost always something in the valving rather than the pump. The few times it was a bad pump it was caused by water contamination; not likely in a tractor. I'm sure tractor pumps go bad and lose pressure, but I'd expect another problem.
One problem we share that I know is not right; that change in engine tone when the implements are lifted all the way. Mine does that when the 3pth is all the way up. I've adjusted my stop to keep it from topping out, but it should go into a float mode at whatever postion you set the lever at and relieve the pressure on the pump. If it doen't, something is out of whack. I suspect mine is some sticky linkage on the hitch activator since it works better when I lube it. I haven't cornered the problem yet though , so for the time being I go with the stop on the lever adjustment to keep away from full up. I can run the FEL all the way up without leaving the pump in a bind, as long as I don't hold the handle down when the loader reaches its full travel. If you have an issue with your pump being in a constant bind it would definitely heat up your oil excessively causing a loss of pressure.
Another thing I've learned about tractor hydraulics; it's hard to find someone who really understands how and why they work, let alone why they don't.
Good luck with it. I know how frustrating it can be. Other than wheel bearings, the only thing I've ever needed to fix on my tractor has been the hydraulics.
Tom
Marlowe
Gold Member
I'm no expert, but i've had my share of hydraulic problems. Some things I've learned:
Small tractors have a hydraulic system on them meant to operate primarily the 3pth. While they will produce the pressure needed to operate a FEL, it will usually be slow when compared with the ones designed for that purpose.
Hydraulics work better in cool weather. I've noticed that my tractor FEL gets really slow and noticeably weaker on a hot day, especially after I've worked it hard for a while. The oil heats up, gets thinner, and less pressure is produced.
The hydraulic pump is a gear mesh type pump, for lack of better words. I've had a great deal of experience with these pumps when I was an outboard mechanic. They use similar, although much smaller pumps in the trim systems. Trim systems experience similar failures such as slow action and lack of power. It was almost always something in the valving rather than the pump. The few times it was a bad pump it was caused by water contamination; not likely in a tractor. I'm sure tractor pumps go bad and lose pressure, but I'd expect another problem.
One problem we share that I know is not right; that change in engine tone when the implements are lifted all the way. Mine does that when the 3pth is all the way up. I've adjusted my stop to keep it from topping out, but it should go into a float mode at whatever postion you set the lever at and relieve the pressure on the pump. If it doen't, something is out of whack. I suspect mine is some sticky linkage on the hitch activator since it works better when I lube it. I haven't cornered the problem yet though , so for the time being I go with the stop on the lever adjustment to keep away from full up. I can run the FEL all the way up without leaving the pump in a bind, as long as I don't hold the handle down when the loader reaches its full travel. If you have an issue with your pump being in a constant bind it would definitely heat up your oil excessively causing a loss of pressure.
Another thing I've learned about tractor hydraulics; it's hard to find someone who really understands how and why they work, let alone why they don't.
Good luck with it. I know how frustrating it can be. Other than wheel bearings, the only thing I've ever needed to fix on my tractor has been the hydraulics.
Tom
Small tractors have a hydraulic system on them meant to operate primarily the 3pth. While they will produce the pressure needed to operate a FEL, it will usually be slow when compared with the ones designed for that purpose.
Hydraulics work better in cool weather. I've noticed that my tractor FEL gets really slow and noticeably weaker on a hot day, especially after I've worked it hard for a while. The oil heats up, gets thinner, and less pressure is produced.
The hydraulic pump is a gear mesh type pump, for lack of better words. I've had a great deal of experience with these pumps when I was an outboard mechanic. They use similar, although much smaller pumps in the trim systems. Trim systems experience similar failures such as slow action and lack of power. It was almost always something in the valving rather than the pump. The few times it was a bad pump it was caused by water contamination; not likely in a tractor. I'm sure tractor pumps go bad and lose pressure, but I'd expect another problem.
One problem we share that I know is not right; that change in engine tone when the implements are lifted all the way. Mine does that when the 3pth is all the way up. I've adjusted my stop to keep it from topping out, but it should go into a float mode at whatever postion you set the lever at and relieve the pressure on the pump. If it doen't, something is out of whack. I suspect mine is some sticky linkage on the hitch activator since it works better when I lube it. I haven't cornered the problem yet though , so for the time being I go with the stop on the lever adjustment to keep away from full up. I can run the FEL all the way up without leaving the pump in a bind, as long as I don't hold the handle down when the loader reaches its full travel. If you have an issue with your pump being in a constant bind it would definitely heat up your oil excessively causing a loss of pressure.
Another thing I've learned about tractor hydraulics; it's hard to find someone who really understands how and why they work, let alone why they don't.
Good luck with it. I know how frustrating it can be. Other than wheel bearings, the only thing I've ever needed to fix on my tractor has been the hydraulics.
Tom
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do not know if this is a possibility, once in a while I accidently move the control for my rear remotes when they are not connected to anything, the same symptom that your are describing takes place with my loader and continue that way until I put the lever back into the neutral position. This is a bad thing for my tractor and could cause my hydraulic pump some serious damage )</font>
Yikes! What ype of tractor is this? ( I may want to avoid that brand ). I guess my NH remotes spoil me since they auto kick to neutral whent he cyl reaches it's max travel.. or if they get moved with no QD in them..
Soundguy
Yikes! What ype of tractor is this? ( I may want to avoid that brand ). I guess my NH remotes spoil me since they auto kick to neutral whent he cyl reaches it's max travel.. or if they get moved with no QD in them..
Soundguy
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do not know if this is a possibility, once in a while I accidently move the control for my rear remotes when they are not connected to anything, the same symptom that your are describing takes place with my loader and continue that way until I put the lever back into the neutral position. This is a bad thing for my tractor and could cause my hydraulic pump some serious damage )</font>
Yikes! What ype of tractor is this? ( I may want to avoid that brand ). I guess my NH remotes spoil me since they auto kick to neutral whent he cyl reaches it's max travel.. or if they get moved with no QD in them..
Soundguy
Yikes! What ype of tractor is this? ( I may want to avoid that brand ). I guess my NH remotes spoil me since they auto kick to neutral whent he cyl reaches it's max travel.. or if they get moved with no QD in them..
Soundguy
Farwell
Veteran Member
Soundguy,
The tractor is a 1965 John Deere 2010. On the left side of my steering column are two control levers, one for my rear remotes and the other for my 3pth. Once in a while I bump the rear remote lever and for some reason it causes my FEL to stop functioning. The FEL has separate controls on the right side of the tractor tied to the hydraulic pump and through a Prince control valve. I do not know what causes the problem other than the possibility that the rear remotes are capped causing the oil flow to stop or slow down similar to plugging up the open center on the Prince valve. The remote lever must re direct the oil flow from the FEL control to the rear remotes. This is just conjecture on my part but it is the only theory that I have been able to come up with.
Farwell
The tractor is a 1965 John Deere 2010. On the left side of my steering column are two control levers, one for my rear remotes and the other for my 3pth. Once in a while I bump the rear remote lever and for some reason it causes my FEL to stop functioning. The FEL has separate controls on the right side of the tractor tied to the hydraulic pump and through a Prince control valve. I do not know what causes the problem other than the possibility that the rear remotes are capped causing the oil flow to stop or slow down similar to plugging up the open center on the Prince valve. The remote lever must re direct the oil flow from the FEL control to the rear remotes. This is just conjecture on my part but it is the only theory that I have been able to come up with.
Farwell
Farwell
Veteran Member
Soundguy,
The tractor is a 1965 John Deere 2010. On the left side of my steering column are two control levers, one for my rear remotes and the other for my 3pth. Once in a while I bump the rear remote lever and for some reason it causes my FEL to stop functioning. The FEL has separate controls on the right side of the tractor tied to the hydraulic pump and through a Prince control valve. I do not know what causes the problem other than the possibility that the rear remotes are capped causing the oil flow to stop or slow down similar to plugging up the open center on the Prince valve. The remote lever must re direct the oil flow from the FEL control to the rear remotes. This is just conjecture on my part but it is the only theory that I have been able to come up with.
Farwell
The tractor is a 1965 John Deere 2010. On the left side of my steering column are two control levers, one for my rear remotes and the other for my 3pth. Once in a while I bump the rear remote lever and for some reason it causes my FEL to stop functioning. The FEL has separate controls on the right side of the tractor tied to the hydraulic pump and through a Prince control valve. I do not know what causes the problem other than the possibility that the rear remotes are capped causing the oil flow to stop or slow down similar to plugging up the open center on the Prince valve. The remote lever must re direct the oil flow from the FEL control to the rear remotes. This is just conjecture on my part but it is the only theory that I have been able to come up with.
Farwell
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