Hydraulic Pump Broke

   / Hydraulic Pump Broke #11  
jgbanshee said:
I am told by my local Ford dealer (deals Bradco attachments) that each section of the bh valve has its own relief and then there is a main relief for the whole valve. Is that true? So, if I use PB then I should have NO problems? After I take the pump out I will be looking for a name plate and information about it cause if I woulc fine a new replacement for say a third of the price from Ford I probably will just buy a new one. I am told by Ford that it is probably a Cessna or maybe Eaton. I found a Cessna that is really close in specs for like $400 something.


The usual way to plumb is for the fluid to go from the pump to the loader control valve (which has a relief valve), out the PB to the hoe (which has a relief on the inlet, the boom and the dipper circuit normally) then back to the tank. The loader control valve has a route back to the tank for "used" fluid. Marked "out". For the pump to dead head - both the loader valve and the BH valve relief's would have to fail at the same time. Not likely. My guess is still with the selector valve.

Can you draw on a piece of paper the hydraulic circuit routing you used with the selector valve? That may help in ID'ing the root cause of the boo-boo.

On replacement pumps, if it fits it's gonna work. No need to buy a ford pump as they usually use Cessna (older units) or Eaton or other supplier pumps. Getting the location and size of the inlets and outlets correct and the shaft type/size are pretty easy to do. I don't think the original pump is salvageable. They usually balloon the case when dead headed.
 
   / Hydraulic Pump Broke
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Which way does my pump operate (CW or CWW)? There is an arrow stamped on top of it but do I read that arrow from standing looking at the splined shaft side or from the backside of the pump?
 
   / Hydraulic Pump Broke
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Alright, I got the pump off the tractor. The brand is Commercial. It looks to be cast iron and built in 3 sections.
 
   / Hydraulic Pump Broke
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Here are some photos of the pump.
 

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   / Hydraulic Pump Broke #15  
Not a progressive failure from the looks of the shaft. No discoloration as would happen with crack progression over time. Can you turn the shaft w vise grips? Unlikely for an internal failure to cause a pump to lock up on its own, but a possibility. Pump turns as if the part of the shaft nearest the arrow goes that way.
larry
 
   / Hydraulic Pump Broke
  • Thread Starter
#16  
No, I cannot turn the shaft at all. It will not budge. The inlet side of the pump has that steel tube inserted for a rubber hose and hose clamp. Is that threaded in there or held in there some other way?
 
   / Hydraulic Pump Broke #17  
Its possible you had a pump failure that caused it to sieze, only coincidently associated with your mods. But it could be that overpressure broke something inside that stopped it and then the shaft broke. Have somebody that knows pumps disect it.
I dont know how the suction nipple is held in, sorry. Its not preventing you getting it apart is it? Maybe you can tell how its retained by looking at the inside
larry
 
   / Hydraulic Pump Broke #18  
Commercial Intertech was purchased by Parker Hannifin several years ago. If you go to the Parker website, Hydraulic Groups section you can find the Commercial Intertech pumps and catalogs. A search on Commercial Intertech should also pull up some websites for distributors or suppliers of other, similar pumps. You can use the code on the pump to identify your pump with all of the options used in the build up (shaft, ports, flow rate, rotation, etc). You should be able to get parts, a rebuilt pump, a new pump, or a Commercial clone pump fairly readily.

Do you use the selector valve to port oil to the FEL or BH or for some other purpose? Do you know if the selector valve is open center or closed center? You'll probably want to used an open center selector valve so the pump isn't dead headed when the selector valve is in mid stroke.
 

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