Hydraulic question for Ford 1920

[wood butcher]

OK...I had way too much hydro fluid in my Ford 1920. It was that way when I bought it. It also had water in the hydro system so I decided to drain the system, change out the filter and refill to the CORRECT level. I did all of that then started the tractor up and no hydraulics...not even the 3-point. I might add I had hydraulic issues before that but I think my 3-point worked. The loader would go up and down when I purchased the tractor a few months back but started to not work recently.

I completely disconnected the hydro lines from the lift arms and moved the control lever like I would if I was lifting the loader and just a little bit of hydro fluid came out. So...I dont think the pump is working as it should. I should also note I used a WIX filter, not NH. So, I'm stumped...what might be causing the hydros to not work. Do I need to somehow bleed the air out or something? My Deere was a self bleeding system but I'm not sure about the Ford. Anyone have any ideas where I might start?

 

[art]

All hydrualic systems use a positive displacement pump so the need to prime is not there. I don't like wix filters but I'm wondering if the water might not have damaged the pump?

On the other side of the coin for what you found if the pump intake tube is not sealing well then it might very well work if it is over filled!!!!!

 

[wood butcher]

Interesting thought about being overfilled. Im really considering taking the pump off and rebuilding it. The tractor has 1200 hrs and I think the tranny has had water in it for quite some time.

 

[TraderMark]

I've had the same problem on my 1720 after changing the hydraulic filter.

Even though it has a positive displacement pump it can and does get airlocked.

What I do is remove the pressure line from the back of the hydraulic pump. Be careful not to lose the o-ring that goes in the line.

Remove the wire going to the fuel shut-off on the injection pump and spin the starter until you get oil coming from the pump. Reconnect the line with the o-ring in place, reinstall the wire to the injection pump and when you start it up, you should have your hydraulics back.

Hope this helps,

Mark

 

[wood butcher]

I've had the same problem on my 1720 after changing the hydraulic filter.

Even though it has a positive displacement pump it can and does get airlocked.

What I do is remove the pressure line from the back of the hydraulic pump. Be careful not to lose the o-ring that goes in the line.

Remove the wire going to the fuel shut-off on the injection pump and spin the starter until you get oil coming from the pump. Reconnect the line with the o-ring in place, reinstall the wire to the injection pump and when you start it up, you should have your hydraulics back.

Hope this helps,

Mark

That's a great idea. I'll give it a shot and post back. Thank you.

 

[RickB]

A weak pump on a 1920 will not self prime. A wix filter is more restrictive than OEM and will compound the problem. Unless your pump is leaking externally, skip the "rebuild" you are contemplating and start saving up for a new pump. Do check all the o-rings on the suction side of the pump before going too far.

 

[wood butcher]

Just checked the fluid in the reservoir...not milky, however the fluid in the lift cylinders and the power steering reservoir is milky. Is the PS reservoir independent of the rest of the hydraulic fluid or does it all draw from the same place? If it's independent, why would there be water in the PS reservoir?

Why would you recommend a new pump over a rebuild? Would the gears be worn that much after 1200 hours? Im sure water being in there didnt help.

 

[RickB]

Just checked the fluid in the reservoir...not milky, however the fluid in the lift cylinders and the power steering reservoir is milky. Is the PS reservoir independent of the rest of the hydraulic fluid or does it all draw from the same place? If it's independent, why would there be water in the PS reservoir?

Why would you recommend a new pump over a rebuild? Would the gears be worn that much after 1200 hours? Im sure water being in there didnt help.

The pump gears are steel, the housing is aluminum. Which will wear and cause clearances out of tolerance? The housing. That's why there are no rebuilds available for these pumps save a seal kit. Which as I stated is a waste of money unless you are trying to cure an external leak. The P/S system is separate from the hydraulics/transmission/rear axle/3 point.

 

[wood butcher]

Ah...aluminum casing. I guess I didn't realize that. Thanks for explaining. I like to know why im going one direction or another. I guess I'll go talk to the folks at NH & see what this little jewel is going to cost. I can only imagine. I'm guessing $700 or so.

 

[TraderMark]

Just because your pump won't self prime doesn't mean it's worn out or worn beyond specs.
In order to self prime, this pump would have to pull the oil about a foot uphill, then suck ALL the air out of the new filter you just installed, then suck ALL the air out of the suction line from the filter to the pump. All the air this pump is sucking has to go somewhere. There's a priority valve between the pump and the next valve in the pressure line. A hydraulic pump can't pump air nearly as efficiently as it pumps oil so it can't push all this air through the priority valve and thus .... gets airlocked. Again, this doesn't necessarily mean your pump is worn out or worn beyond specs.

I agree that trying to rebuild the hydraulic pumps on these tractors is a waste of money, especially when a brand new one is only $300.00


Mark