Toplink Hydraulic side link is too sensitive

[Mosey]

Well Bird was right about cost. I stopped at the place where I got the hoses made (Columbus Hose and Fittings) and they suggested 2 ways to solve the problem.

One is to put an orifice in line and the cost is $15 just for this little fitting. I would have to take a guess as to what size hole to start with and drill it out if it's too slow. They suggested I start with 30 thousandths. They said I would only need one, since it's a dual action cylinder. So, I could get one and put it on and try it, and if it's too slow take it off and drill it out and put it back on and try it again, etc until it's right. If I drill it too big, I'll have to start over with a new one.

The second option is to get a flow control needle valve, which costs $37. The advantage is that it's adjustable, so I wouldn't have to mess around taking it on and off to get it right.

 

[normde2001]

I believe I would go for the $37 needle valve. I imagine the more times you have to open the system, the greater the chance of contamination or causing a leak. Plus, you can always re-adjust at a later date as you get more accustomed to it or there is any pressure change for any reason.

 

[Bird]

The $37 ones were the only ones I was able to find, and I was told (perhaps erroneously?) that I would need two for each cylinder (one on each line), so for hydraulic top 'n tilt, I didn't want to buy 4 of those. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Mosey]

Bird - I can understand why you didn't want to spend near $150! Fortunately for me, the top link is fine. I wouldn't want it any more sensitive, but it's fine the way it is. Maybe it's because it's a larger cylinder so it takes more oil flowing to make it react. Plus 1" of movement on the top link doesn't translate to as much movement on the attachment as 1" of movement on the side link does because the side link cylinder is connected near the pivot point of the lower 3pt arm. The way the guy at the hose and fittings place explained it to me was "since it's a dual acting cylinder, the same amount of oil that goes in one hose has to come out the other, so a restrictor will slow it down going either way".

 

[Mosey]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I would have to take a guess as to what size hole to start with and drill it out if it's too slow. They suggested I start with 30 thousandths.)</font>

The smallest drill bit I have is 1/16, which is about 62 thousandths right? That seems pretty small. So, 30 thousandths would be really small. Does 30 thousandths seem like a good starting point?

 

[beenthere]

Flow control valves usually are restricted in one direction, therefore you would need two. A restrictor orifice may function the same in both directions, so only one may be needed.

So as a precaution, check that the $37 flow control valves are indeed controlling flow in both directions.

 

[JimMc]

The local Royal Brass outlet in S. IL is in Benton. 3/8" restrictor orifice under $3.00 You will need one in each line to reduce the bounce effect created by the orifice. With only one, you will have an initial jerk in the movement, then it will slow. Additionally, you will want to mount them as close to the cylinder as possible, preferably directly on the cylinder. 30 thou is a good place to start.

 

[JerryG]

Jim,
I for one, am glad that you are a contributor to this forum. It's nice to have the expertise from you and the dealers that frequent here. Lets not forget Kubmech and all the others in the equipment and or manufacturing business that also supply valuable information. Thank you all very much.

BTW, have you got your quick hitch into production yet?

 

[Mosey]

JimMc - "The local Royal Brass outlet in S. IL is in Benton. 3/8" restrictor orifice under $3.00 You will need one in each line to reduce the bounce effect created by the orifice"

OK you convinced me! I went to their web site - http://www.royalbrassandhose.com - and the online ordering system is down. I don't know the part number anyway. Do you know the phone number for the one in Benton, IL? I'll see if I can order 2 restrictor orifices from them. I need to check the receipt from when I bought the hoses to see what size fitting I need. I remember that the fitting on the end of the hose that screwed into the cylinder is the type with an O-ring, but I don't know what size it is. I sure do appreciate your help!

PS: Never mind the phone number. None of the dealer locations listed on ther home page were clickable, but I found them under "Contact".

 

[Mosey]

The dealer got back with me today and said they have an adjustable valve for $38. They said they've used it before and that I only need 1. I'd still prefer the cheaper way though, so I'll give Royal Brass call as soon as I look up what size thread I need. The adjustable one would be nice, but I don't want to spend that much.