hydraulic side link with quick hitch

   / hydraulic side link with quick hitch #11  
XCAT said:
Brian,
We had issues trying to fit a longer ram in the area we had, 4 stroke was the best to allow enough up travel. If I used say a 8 stroke ram I would not be able to lift the rh arm higher than the left due to dead area of the cylinder. And my main aim was to be able to lift each end of out grader blade the same amount off the ground from horizontal position and I can do that as the blade pivots from the left arm. Secondly when grading drains I tend to always dig on the rh side so this is why I only have limited up travel on the rod, but it gives me lots of down travel to get deep drain / channel. I also have three positions I can set the lower fork on so if any time I require a different task I can change the amount of up or down. But again our main problem was getting a cylinder to fit within the limits of this machine, a point I should have said in my earlier post. Hope this helps.
Cheers
xcat

xcat, I was thinking that you might of had a 6" stroke and it seemed odd to have 1 and 1/2" -- 2" of ram out when level, that's all. But even that would have made sense now knowing more what your main usage is. Hey, one other question, you don't have dpocvs, does your hydraulic side link wonder? Or have you not been able to use it enough yet to tell?
 
   / hydraulic side link with quick hitch #12  
Brian,
Mate I am only an aussie whet the **** is a dpocvs ?????
But it seems to be very stable so far.

Cheers
xcat
 
   / hydraulic side link with quick hitch #13  
XCAT said:
Brian,
Mate I am only an aussie whet the **** is a dpocvs ?????
But it seems to be very stable so far.

Cheers
xcat
Tractor Hydraulic toplink, Top-N-Tilt, Side link
double piloted operated check valve. A lot of guys here at TBN use them. I might have used the wrong lettering, maybe it should be dpcv (double piloted check valve) Actually I think that it is supposed to be dpcv, I messed up. Click on the link above and you will see it on a hydraulic top link
 
   / hydraulic side link with quick hitch #14  
Thanks Rob, after doing a search on hydraulic side links I noticed several people who were unhappy with the performance of them. I'm not happy with the manual one on my Case-IH 685 so was thinking about replacing it with a hyd one but I intend to install a quick hitch. Your post has me thinking that I probably don't need a lot of side adj anyway. I likely could get away with a better manual one but I don't see much out there in the way of aftermarket ones. I have seen those ratcheting top links and am wondering how they would work. Gerry
I have had two set up with top and tilt. I can't comprehend why anyone would not want one. Well, I live in the hills, so many on flatland: well . . . who knows? But it is so nice to level out on a multiple angled grades. I can't imagine hopping out 10 times a day adjusting that manually. I guess if the customer don't mind paying for all that manual labor . . .
 
   / hydraulic side link with quick hitch #15  
   / hydraulic side link with quick hitch #16  
xcat, in your photo it looks like you have little or no tilt to the left. Usually when one hydraulic side link is used the hydraulic ram is centered to be level. That way an equal amount of tilt can be had on either side. I like that you used the factory ends on your hydraulic, that is the wright way to do it. On my cat 2 side link I have 8" of travel and if I remember correctly my stock factory one had 6". The same holds true for my top link, I have more adjustment with my hydraulic than I did with my manual one.

Now I am not sure if this is possible on the cat 1 hitches or not, size might play a factor here. Here's a picture of my setup.
To Brian's point.

I moved my factory manually adjustable side link to the left side. Then added a hydraulic link to the right side. This gives me the ability to extend the amount of "angle" I can apply up or down with the hydraulic link by adjusting the manual link.
 
   / hydraulic side link with quick hitch #17  
Brian,
We had issues trying to fit a longer ram in the area we had, 4 stroke was the best to allow enough up travel. If I used say a 8 stroke ram I would not be able to lift the rh arm higher than the left due to dead area of the cylinder. And my main aim was to be able to lift each end of out grader blade the same amount off the ground from horizontal position and I can do that as the blade pivots from the left arm. Secondly when grading drains I tend to always dig on the rh side so this is why I only have limited up travel on the rod, but it gives me lots of down travel to get deep drain / channel. I also have three positions I can set the lower fork on so if any time I require a different task I can change the amount of up or down. But again our main problem was getting a cylinder to fit within the limits of this machine, a point I should have said in my earlier post. Hope this helps.
Cheers
xcat
Interesting attachment on the back of the blade and looks to be a type of ripper or scarifier! Does it rotate and pin in an engaged position?
 

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