Hydraulic Top Link came apart... Failed!

[/pine]

Sorry, never even seen one of them in person that I can think of. Was it leaking before? Unless it got damaged somehow, I wouldn't worry about it.

Sorry that I can't help out more.

it's leaking and I can't seem to find a fine enough one of the right dia....the original supplier want over $5 plus another $5 for shipping and they won't tell the the size or #...

Thanks for the reply anyway...

 

[coldsteelva]

I can't help with the busted link, but you appear to be missing the drive shaft guard.

 

[teg]

...Odd how it just let go like that. I've heard of this happening transporting a very heavy rotary cutter too fast over rough ground, when it got to bouncing up and down. Doesn't sound like you were doing that though....

Well to be honest, I was not going fast at THAT moment but I can not deny ever doing that....

Once I take it apart, I'll look it over good, inspect the seals and the nut. I have a hard time believing something bad did not happen... (strip the threads).

 

[teg]

I can't help with the busted link, but you appear to be missing the drive shaft guard.

Yea, that's how I roll, I treat the PTO like it wants to kill me, so I never let myself or anyone near it when it is running. Yea, I know the danger of not having a shield but I also don't trust the shield to save me either.... It's easy enough to turn the PTO off... so I really don't understand how someone would even be close enough to a running pto to get into trouble.

Beside, the rusted out, paper thin, see-thur deck is more dangerous than the pto shaft...

 

[teg]

Surprised how easy it was to unscrew the top off. My makeshift "tool" worked just fine. Have to wait to see if I have a socket at work to fit the nut... Everything looks fine.


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To pull the piston out, used a threaded rod and a couple of washers bolted to the end. Then, used the edge of the washer to helped pull the piston out. Used my grabbie thingie :confused2: to get the nut out...

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Removal and assemble went fine (minus the nut, for now) they had some monkey put the nut on with a pipe wrench(?)... Threads still look fine.

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[JRobyn]

I might be tempted to both red locktite that shaft/nut AND peen a spot or two on the rod threads with a center punch!

 

[teg]

...I would drill and tap for a flush set screw.

I can't do this...

I might be tempted to both red locktite that shaft/nut AND peen a spot or two on the rod threads with a center punch!

...but I can do this!! Great idea, thanks!

 

[LD1]

Wow, that was even a lock nut. Is the nylon still in it? Or does it look like the oil attacked it?

Not gonna try to quote all the posts I am replying to, but wanted to clear up some mis-information.

1. Loctite 545 is hydraulic sealant. NOT what you want for this application. I'd use red (permanent) stuff.

2. There are no threads in the piston. Only the nut.

Now as to keeping it from happening again,many many options.
1. Tack weld
2. Drill and set screw nut
3. Peen threads or stake the nut
4. Drill nut and rod and pin/cotter
5. Castle nut and cotter
6. Loctite
7. If enough threads...jam nut.

Lastly....and it's easy to forget.......put the cap/gland seal on before the piston. Assuming your rod eye is welded on

 

[teg]

Is the nylon still in it? Or does it look like the oil attacked it?


3. Peen threads


..put the cap/gland seal on before the piston.

Yes, nylon is there and is good...

Plan to use #3 Peen threads.

First thing I did was put the end cap on (but can see how people would miss that!!!)

Couple more question, how do you use Loctite and what I have below. Do you put it together wet or do you put it on the threads and let it dry first (before putting it together?)

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{edit} I really need to quit biting my nails...:duh:

 

[Midniteoyl]

Goes on wet, tighten, let dry..