Hydraulic top-link DIY

Gerald · Aug 2, 2000

Today, I finally finished installing a hydraulic top link on my L3010.
Works like a champ. Made it from parts, no remote kit, saved a few
bucks over the remote kit. The cylinder was no trouble to figure out,
how to plumb it was something of a mystery. The instructions with the
first valve I ordered told me it wouldn't work. Now we understand
"power beyond". All the parts came from Bailynet.com, nice folks to
deal with. If I had told them what I was trying to do on the first order
it would have been easier.
Determined not to put the valve on the fender I came up with a great
place for it, to the right and behind the seat. The lever is in the perfect
place when you are watching the implement behind.
I attached a picture for anyone interested.
Gerald

gordon · Aug 2, 2000

Gerald nice looking installation. Great tool to have isn't it well worth the investment. So you say that you saved a few hundred by using a power beyond hookup instead of the Kubota valve. Nice
Gordon

EddieW · Aug 2, 2000

What are the dimensions on your top link? extended, contracted, bore, cylinder, stroke, etc. I am in the process of getting one and all I can find is an eight" stroke.

W5FL · Aug 2, 2000

Nice installation. If you could post prices and sources, particularly for everything required to add the valve. I only have one on my tractor and could sure use a couple more at times. I have the Gannon standard hydraulic top link. The link is custom made by Gannon and the dealer selling price is about $300. I have not priced the second valve, but they were pretty expensive is why I don't have another one yet.

roysallis · Aug 3, 2000

Yes, please provide more info. I have 2 SCVs and would like to add a hydraulic top link without having to disconnect the dump and roll of the FEL. I can get the TL and hoses for about $250 but my dealer wants about $750 to add another SCV.
Thanks

PaulB · Aug 3, 2000

Gerald - thats a beautiful job. Since you understand "power beyond", can you explain it to me? MarkC tried once but I got totally lost!!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif My tractor has a rear hydraulic port, and the dealer has a valve and lever kit for $585, which is too steep for me right now. If I do it myself can I do better on the price?

MarkV · Aug 3, 2000

Gerald-great job, I want one.

MChalkley · Aug 3, 2000

PaulB - HA HA. I'll try again: It's a purely Kubota thing - as in "If you've got a Kubota, you've got power beyond {whatever else you care to name}. Are you happy now?/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Besides, you're not fooling anybody - you're just trying to get even for my manure spreader jokes.

Mark

MChalkley · Aug 3, 2000

Gerald - Very nicely done! Nice pic, too!

Mark

Gerald · Aug 3, 2000

PaulB,
The diagram that came with the valve make Power-beyond
look simple. Each valve has 3 ports.In, out, and low pressure,
"back to tank,or return".You can connect the valves in series,
"out" on one valve goes to "in" on the next. The third line is
back to tank,it can be connected with a "T" fitting,"mixing it's
flow with other valves is OK.
I had to grind off a small amount on one end of the cylinder,
it is made for catagory 2 3 pt. hitchs, 1" instead of 3/4". You also
have to use bushings in the ends, no problem. Top link measures,
center of pins, in=21 1/2", out=31 1/2", plenty of travel, turn my
box blade almost upside down!
This will save you a trip back to the store, each hose
must have a swivel on one end.
The cost of the valve was about $89.00, cylinder was
$149.00, hoses were about $160.00, I could have done better
on the price of the hoses at Baileynet. I thought the hoses
would be a big problem, fittings and so on. All the hoses
I needed were 3/8" on one end, 1/2" on the other, and a few
bushings.
Hope this helps.
Gerald