Hydraulic Top Link for a 2320

[MtnViewRanch]

IMO, and I use a top link all the time I would get one without the check valves. Much easier to feather the adjustment without checks in the lines.

So Steve, now you use feathers when grading? Man you really do a fine touch when it comes down to the finishing touches. :thumbsup:

I tell people all the time that for grading, my Top and Tilt units are great. If they are farming, then maybe they should either stay with the OEM links or go with a link that has a DPOCV. There are situations where each type is better than the other. It all depends on what it is that a person is doing most of the time as to what type of link works out the best.

 

[jenkinsph]

So Steve, now you use feathers when grading? Man you really do a fine touch when it comes down to the finishing touches. :thumbsup:

I tell people all the time that for grading, my Top and Tilt units are great. If they are farming, then maybe they should either stay with the OEM links or go with a link that has a DPOCV. There are situations where each type is better than the other. It all depends on what it is that a person is doing most of the time as to what type of link works out the best.

I find when changing directions with a boxblade or landplane grader you have to readjust the top link each time. That means frequent adjusting of the length of the top link.

For other jobs such as rototilling or brushhogging the check valves would be fine since these adjustments aren't need except for the initial setup and trim.


I guess I haven't realy noticed much cylinder creep with my setup so far, if the valves leak fluid past the spools I would fix it.

 

[hanson1999]

IMO, and I use a top link all the time I would get one without the check valves. Much easier to feather the adjustment without checks in the lines.

i agree. and i like the float function for mowers and other odd uses time to time.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I find when changing directions with a boxblade or landplane grader you have to readjust the top link each time. That means frequent adjusting of the length of the top link.

For other jobs such as rototilling or brushhogging the check valves would be fine since these adjustments aren't need except for the initial setup and trim.


I guess I haven't realy noticed much cylinder creep with my setup so far, if the valves leak fluid past the spools I would fix it.[/quote]

This is my situation exactly. I have actually tested mine a couple of times just so that I would know just how much my cylinders drift. Having the 3pt raised with a 1000lb load on it my side link falls pretty much right at 5/32" in one hour. WOW, I guess I should really have a DPOCV and forego all the advantages of not having a check valve on the cylinder. The top link extended about 1/16". Man that is just terrible, and unacceptable........ in some peoples eyes I guess. In the real world it is just fine and affects nothing, when it comes to grading anyway.

Just my opinion, others do vary.