hydraulic top link - is it worth it?
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3RRL
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( With regard to selecting the right top-link length: Keep in mind that if you go to Pat's EZ-Hitch, it'll move the implement about 3" further back from the tractor. Therefore your top-link will have to be longer to get the same results.
After going to Pat's I find that my hyd. toplink is close to full extension most of the time.
Bob )</font>
It's funny how tractor brands differ when implements are purchased for them. On my Kama 554, the stock CCM hydraulic cylinder was too long for the 7" Howse boxblade, but when I added Pat's EZ hitch, it was just right. Now it tilts equally forwards and backwards....go figure??
After going to Pat's I find that my hyd. toplink is close to full extension most of the time.
Bob )</font>
It's funny how tractor brands differ when implements are purchased for them. On my Kama 554, the stock CCM hydraulic cylinder was too long for the 7" Howse boxblade, but when I added Pat's EZ hitch, it was just right. Now it tilts equally forwards and backwards....go figure??
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
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- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( With regard to selecting the right top-link length: Keep in mind that if you go to Pat's EZ-Hitch, it'll move the implement about 3" further back from the tractor. Therefore your top-link will have to be longer to get the same results.
After going to Pat's I find that my hyd. toplink is close to full extension most of the time.
Bob )</font>
It's funny how tractor brands differ when implements are purchased for them. On my Kama 554, the stock CCM hydraulic cylinder was too long for the 7" Howse boxblade, but when I added Pat's EZ hitch, it was just right. Now it tilts equally forwards and backwards....go figure??
After going to Pat's I find that my hyd. toplink is close to full extension most of the time.
Bob )</font>
It's funny how tractor brands differ when implements are purchased for them. On my Kama 554, the stock CCM hydraulic cylinder was too long for the 7" Howse boxblade, but when I added Pat's EZ hitch, it was just right. Now it tilts equally forwards and backwards....go figure??
I have read the posts and I am going to invest in a hydraulic top link. Now my question is do I need the one with or without the check valve. What are the pros and cons? I have rear hydraulics on my machine. Also with only one set of rear hydraulic connections how can I do a adjustable tilt also? (side to side)
I have read the posts and I am going to invest in a hydraulic top link. Now my question is do I need the one with or without the check valve. What are the pros and cons? I have rear hydraulics on my machine. Also with only one set of rear hydraulic connections how can I do a adjustable tilt also? (side to side)
MadReferee
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now my question is do I need the one with or without the check valve. What are the pros and cons? )</font>
I answered this in response to your post in another thread. But I'll do it again here to be consistent.
Cylinders with check valves are better than those without check valves. Most cylinders will leak down under load and both the top and tilt link cylinders are always under load. Check valves will prevent the leak down. So check valves will make your life easier. If you do a search here on TBN you will get literally hundreds of posts that discuss check valves and TNT systems. Read and you can decide for yourself.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have rear hydraulics on my machine. Also with only one set of rear hydraulic connections how can I do a adjustable tilt also? (side to side) )</font>
Since you only have one set of remotes you can use a diverter to make one into two. A flick of a 12V momentary switch will select which part (the top or the tilt) will get fluid.
I answered this in response to your post in another thread. But I'll do it again here to be consistent.
Cylinders with check valves are better than those without check valves. Most cylinders will leak down under load and both the top and tilt link cylinders are always under load. Check valves will prevent the leak down. So check valves will make your life easier. If you do a search here on TBN you will get literally hundreds of posts that discuss check valves and TNT systems. Read and you can decide for yourself.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have rear hydraulics on my machine. Also with only one set of rear hydraulic connections how can I do a adjustable tilt also? (side to side) )</font>
Since you only have one set of remotes you can use a diverter to make one into two. A flick of a 12V momentary switch will select which part (the top or the tilt) will get fluid.
MadReferee
Elite Member, Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2003
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- 3,862
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- Kubota B2710, IH TD6-62 dozer with Drott 4n1 bucket loader
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now my question is do I need the one with or without the check valve. What are the pros and cons? )</font>
I answered this in response to your post in another thread. But I'll do it again here to be consistent.
Cylinders with check valves are better than those without check valves. Most cylinders will leak down under load and both the top and tilt link cylinders are always under load. Check valves will prevent the leak down. So check valves will make your life easier. If you do a search here on TBN you will get literally hundreds of posts that discuss check valves and TNT systems. Read and you can decide for yourself.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have rear hydraulics on my machine. Also with only one set of rear hydraulic connections how can I do a adjustable tilt also? (side to side) )</font>
Since you only have one set of remotes you can use a diverter to make one into two. A flick of a 12V momentary switch will select which part (the top or the tilt) will get fluid.
I answered this in response to your post in another thread. But I'll do it again here to be consistent.
Cylinders with check valves are better than those without check valves. Most cylinders will leak down under load and both the top and tilt link cylinders are always under load. Check valves will prevent the leak down. So check valves will make your life easier. If you do a search here on TBN you will get literally hundreds of posts that discuss check valves and TNT systems. Read and you can decide for yourself.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have rear hydraulics on my machine. Also with only one set of rear hydraulic connections how can I do a adjustable tilt also? (side to side) )</font>
Since you only have one set of remotes you can use a diverter to make one into two. A flick of a 12V momentary switch will select which part (the top or the tilt) will get fluid.
Thanks for the info and here is the next part of the question. Where can I get the diverter switch after market? I did some research from Deere and they want big bucks to install a diverter to work of the loader control. I am looking to do this off the 3rd scv on the rear. Thanks again
Thanks for the info and here is the next part of the question. Where can I get the diverter switch after market? I did some research from Deere and they want big bucks to install a diverter to work of the loader control. I am looking to do this off the 3rd scv on the rear. Thanks again