Hydraulic top link issues

[LD1]

If you look at the size of the hole in most cylinders, it its pretty much about the same size as the ID of the fittings that would fit it. And usually more than adequate for whatever flow the cylinder is going to see. That opening in your cylinder is large enough to flow enough volume for that cylinder to be extremely fast.

 

[oldballs]

After following several ongoing threads about "Hydraulic Top Link Issues", it almost makes me gland that I don't have one.. I do use a mold board plow, a box blade, a rear blade, a tiller, a pine needle rake.......now and then. But being just a home owner, these chores are in small volumes and I'm retired...............so manually adjusting my Top Link is no big deal. Avoiding all that rigging clutter and dollars spent is my preference.

Now, If had more volume of work and a bigger rig, I'd be longing for a Hydraulic Top Link with a side link as well. ...just sayin"

Cheers,
Mike

 

[ovrszd]

I don't know why, probably the same reason that the welds get done differently. Just how that particular company happens to do it.

I think it's something as simple as "make the hole smaller than the bung you are welding on, then you don't have to be so precise in locating said bung".....

 

[ovrszd]

After following several ongoing threads about "Hydraulic Top Link Issues", it almost makes me gland that I don't have one.. I do use a mold board plow, a box blade, a rear blade, a tiller, a pine needle rake.......now and then. But being just a home owner, these chores are in small volumes and I'm retired...............so manually adjusting my Top Link is no big deal. Avoiding all that rigging clutter and dollars spent is my preference.

Now, If had more volume of work and a bigger rig, I'd be longing for a Hydraulic Top Link with a side link as well. ...just sayin"

Cheers,
Mike

Mike, none of us NEED our hydraulic top links, not a single one of us.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Mike, none of us NEED our hydraulic top links, not a single one of us.

That is very true Richard............... until you get one and use it doing dirt work. Then it becomes closer to a need

gg

 

[ovrszd]

That is very true Richard............... until you get one and use it doing dirt work. Then it becomes closer to a need

gg

That's simply compassionate wanton lust.

 

[Kodiak45]

With your implement on the ground, fully cycle your top link 5-10 times. That should get the air out.

Now raise the hitch and see if you can feather your valve to your liking. If that's no big deal, then you should be set. But if the cylinder extends faster than it retracts, then there is a real good chance that a vacuum is getting pulled and you are right back to where you started.

Cycling with the implement on the ground worked perfect and most if not all the air was removed from the cylinder. Ground engagement after this showed very little movement in the cylinder. So this means the cylinder is functional, I just need to reduce the flow. I'd rather not have to feather the valve so is there any reason to get a dynamic flow control vs a restrictor bushing?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Cycling with the implement on the ground worked perfect and most if not all the air was removed from the cylinder. Ground engagement after this showed very little movement in the cylinder. So this means the cylinder is functional, I just need to reduce the flow. I'd rather not have to feather the valve so is there any reason to get a dynamic flow control vs a restrictor bushing?

Not in my mind. A restrictor is all that you need. Depending on the diameter of your cylinder, but I use .030 for 2", .045 for 2 1/2" and .060 for 3". Actually use .070 for cat 3, 3 1/2" units.

Again, I recommend the use of one on each port, but you can get away with one on the rod end port only if you choose to do so.

There are orifice fittings that will fit between your male coupler and hose. These are the easiest ones to use that I know of. They come in .031 and .062 sizes.

 

[LD1]

Cycling with the implement on the ground worked perfect and most if not all the air was removed from the cylinder. Ground engagement after this showed very little movement in the cylinder. So this means the cylinder is functional, I just need to reduce the flow. I'd rather not have to feather the valve so is there any reason to get a dynamic flow control vs a restrictor bushing?

The benefit is being able to close them off and lock the cylinder in place. How noticable the cylinder drift is without one, is all in the leakage rate of your valve.

As it is currently, if you have an implement on the back and in the air, how quickly does the toplinks bleed down on its own?

 

[olPete]

The benefit is being able to close them off and lock the cylinder in place. How noticable the cylinder drift is without one, is all in the leakage rate of your valve.

As it is currently, if you have an implement on the back and in the air, how quickly does the toplinks bleed down on its own?

Do these compact tractors not have an adjustable flow rate, on the spool bank?
Or the OP could perhaps put a ball valve in the line to stop creep, unless there is seal bypass in the cylinder, these taps could perform both functions. Have these on my feed wagon lines to keep everything up during storage, and makes connection so much easier when they aren't under pressure.