Hydraulic Top Link OR Tnt without the t!

[OkieG]

<font color="blue"> what is more critical </font>
In my limited experience, I think both the limits of retraction and extension are important. My TBN research also left me with the impression: strive to obtain the fully retracted length of the OEM Top Link.
With a BoxBlade, for example, tipping the implement forward or back allows different functions of the implement to be utilized. So, for a BoxBlade, both are important.
My OEM link collapsed to 18 1/2" and would extend 8" to 26 1/2". The Prince cylinder has 8" of extension and is 13 1/2" collapsed. That gave me 5" to make up by welding the swivels. To make things fit best, I didn't want to equally divide those inches. The swivel on the rod was cut quite short, while the rest of the length was made up on the cylinder base. This picture and the next one show what I mean. Rod end swivel, Picture #1.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Cylinder base end. Picture #2.

 

[OkieG]

Also, the rotational angle that the swivel is welded onto the base can make a difference as far as clearing obstacles the Link might encounter as it is raised and lowered through it's range of motion. My base swivel was welded at about a 45 degree angle off of being aligned with the cylinder fitting ports. This picture kinda shows that.

OkieG

 

[OkieG]

Finally, to attempt to answer your question. If I had the luxury of a cylinder with more than 8" of extension, and could make the collapsed length anything I wanted. I would divide the extra extension in half, between full retraction and full extention, so each limit would benefit by half. In other words, I think both limits are equally important.

Disclaimer: My comments are mostly based on the comments, opinions and suggestions of others, gleaned from posts on TBN threads, and not on personal experience.

OkieG

 

[Rch]

Thanks OkieG. Very helpful with the pics, especially the extra wrinkle of angling the proximal weld-on end. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif It looks like you had some room to spare with some threads visible on that proximal end that you welded on.

 

[em14]

OkieG,
Very nice job ... I wondered what you were up to ...
Leo

 

[OkieG]

Hi Leo,
Nice to hear from you. I've just been kinda laying low. Now that the summer heat is over, my ambition level is a bit higher.

I am very new to the hydraulic Top Link thing, but I can tell you, being able to control the Top Link makes BrushHogging a whole new experience. Most of the growing season I do low intensity BrushHogging in my neighborhood drainage areas. "On the fly" Top Link control allows easier contouring (of the weeds) at ditch edges and uneven spots.

What would we do without new toys?

OkieG

 

[MLB]

FWIW

my dealer said $200. Installed.
(your remote)

 

[OkieG]

Re: FWIW

MLB,
That sounds about right. I recall paying less than $200 for the kit, but I installed it myself. The instructions were pretty straight forward, so it wasn't too hard a job.

Starting from scratch, the rear hyraulic "remote" kit is another expense on the way to having rear hyraulics.

The total expense for an hydraulic Top Link project can be fairly substantial, but I look at it this way. First, tractoring may only be a hobby for me, but I also consider it a testing ground to try things that are new (like welding, wiring and hydraulics). You know, things I've always wanted to do, but never have. I don't have a yacht, Harley, sports car or a second home in Florida (I wish!), so my little tractor gets some extra attention. Second, it seems like every bit of increased functionality finds usefulness in ways I never imagined initially. And, once the plumbing is there, other uses could surface (log splitter, hyd. rear blade, etc.). Finally, improved functionality makes any job more enjoyable. For me, enjoying the work is as important as getting the work done.

That's just how I justify some of the tractor "upgrades" I get involved in. No regrets so far.

OkieG

 

[JRP]

I made a similar top link.

I made an adapter for the cylinder end. See attachment. This eliminated the need to weld on the cylinder.