Price Check Hydraulic Top Link Price

JLoaf · Feb 3, 2004

Does anybody know what it costs to get a hydraulic top link
for a Kubota L3830?
I don't have any existing remotes.
Any info is appreciated.

_RaT_ · Feb 3, 2004

I still owe Grandad and a couple of others here at TBN a couple of pictures and description of mine. I have a TnT with a third remote for anything from my hydraulic rippers to controling my landscape rakes various hydraulic functions. The 3 valve block, numerous fittings, quick connectors (6) valve platform, supply/return block, hoses and two cylinders were about $1200. You could do it cheaper yourself and use less costly cylinders, mine were about $250 each as I recall. The toplink has a very definite open/close length that needs to be figiured in as if it's to long or short, getting the proper cut angle for boxblade may be impossible. Northern Tools now sells a hydraulic toplink available. If you need to know what length to get, let me know. My dealer looked it up and had the exact measurements for me. Doing the whole job yourself will save you money to be sure, but you will invest quite a bit of time especially when you want to get the hoses just the right length. This topic has been discussed pretty thouroghly. Some folks think the price of $1000 plus dollars outrageous, but when you add up the componets, it gets up there quick. My TnT cylinders are Gannon which admittedly seem to be a bit more expensive. My valve body is Dinoil. Rat...

HayDR · Feb 3, 2004

$170 plus freight for the Hyd. Toplink with check valve
$ 30 Hose Kit with 1/2" male couplers

If you want a Top & Tilt check out Integration Engineering's Patented System

_RaT_ · Feb 3, 2004

Mark, remind me again what the check valve is for. I remember reading about many months ago but have forgotten the specifics. If the open/close length is appropriate, I should think he has found a hydraulic top link.

HayDR · Feb 3, 2004

The main reason that the double piloted check valve is to insure the cylinder setting stays where you put it. Every valve has a certain amount on bleed by and this will cause the toplink to move if you do not have the check valve. This means without the check valve you could be constantly readjusting the hydraulic cylinder that does not have the check valve setup.

JLoaf · Feb 5, 2004

Thanks for all the input.
After working with a box blade for the last couple of months,
it is apparent to me the convenience of having a hydraulic top link. I'm feel certain that it would not take long to get spoiled to having a "tilt" cylinder also.

JLoaf · Feb 5, 2004

CCI,
I will still need to add remote(s) won't I??
I will also need lever(s) to control the cylinder.

HayDR · Feb 5, 2004

You will need exterior hydraulic outlets. Often tractor dealers cut this out to have an extra $300-400 to play with in their price. I can not believe dealers still do this like the did back in the 1970's. You will have the choice of the OEM or aftermarket system. Either will work but I'd spring for the more expensive OEM valve and couplers.

Rowski · Feb 7, 2004

I can't help you with the length.

But I have a HTL from CCI. Works great. Works even better on my T8 Harley rake!

Henro · Feb 7, 2004

Rowski,

Nice picture! I was wondering how that cylinder would hook up. Looks real good. Thanks for posting the pic. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Now I know what the next thing I have to do to my B2910 is... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif