Hydraulic top link use and limitations
- Thread starter bironacad
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beenthere
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I don't find any limitations, and use it regularly. Especially when the pallet forks are on the 3 ph. Then when latching and un-latching the iMatch, it is easy to tilt it forward to easily reach without leaning back over the seat (or heaven forbid having to get off the tractor to do it 
). It is especially handy when using the rotary cutter for setting the rear deck wheel on the ground and having the option to get the deck high over rocks or stumps.
What are you putting the htl on?
). It is especially handy when using the rotary cutter for setting the rear deck wheel on the ground and having the option to get the deck high over rocks or stumps. What are you putting the htl on?
OP
bironacad
Platinum Member
I don't find any limitations, and use it regularly. Especially when the pallet forks are on the 3 ph. Then when latching and un-latching the iMatch, it is easy to tilt it forward to easily reach without leaning back over the seat (or heaven forbid having to get off the tractor to do it
What are you putting the htl on?
I purchased a NH 3045 this past winter (love it by the way) but will be doing some bush hogging this spring/summer. When using my pull behind snow thrower it would have been nice to change the attacking edge of the blower on the fly, a thread on hogging put me over the top for the purchase.
jonyyuma
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Where are the hydraulic top links offered, any different configerations.I want the self contained, i am tired of fighting the hitch and clearance issues with a solid link? Jy.
SSdoxie
Elite Member
The 3 most commonly referred to in threads here are; Surplus Center, CCM, and Fite Rite Hydraulics. As mentioned earlier when using a Quick Hitch/iMatch it is a dream come true, no more getting off the tractor to line to top pin. Only time I have to get off is with PTO hook up or disconnect.
nickel plate
Veteran Member
When you activate the top link upward to the top of the lifting height with the 3-pt, be careful that the two hoses do not collide with other objects causing a kink. Different angled hose fittings may help prevent this. I'm using what came with the cylinder and keeping a close eye when lifting the 3-pt. May change out the fittings in the future to avoid this.
If you get into switching out multiple hydraulic attachments, color code the hoses and corresponding female remote QCs so you attach them right the first time. I do all of the single rear remote attachment switch outs (I have a grapple and a wood chipper) on the lower first set of remotes where the tilt cylinder is plugged in.
If you get into switching out multiple hydraulic attachments, color code the hoses and corresponding female remote QCs so you attach them right the first time. I do all of the single rear remote attachment switch outs (I have a grapple and a wood chipper) on the lower first set of remotes where the tilt cylinder is plugged in.
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beenthere
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nickel
You can turn that hose connection point down and get much better hose rotation. A lot of different combinations by rotating the cylinder and/or rotating the tube that has the valve and connectors on it. Shorter hoses too.
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MtnViewRanch
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Nickel, loosen the check valve, rotate the check valve so that the hoses point to the left side of the tractor. The hoses will make a nice loop and you won't need to get any other fittings. Some 90* fittings would make it nicer, but not really needed. You will no longer have to worry about the hoses hitting anything or getting kinked.
nickel plate
Veteran Member
There's a nut on each side of what I think is the check valve (where the two hoses attach to the cylinder). Are they pressed to a 37 JIC type of connection or could it possibly be a pipe type connection and in need of re-sealment? I see no evidence of tape or caulk at either nut.Nickel, loosen the check valve, rotate the check valve so that the hoses point to the left side of the tractor. The hoses will make a nice loop and you won't need to get any other fittings. Some 90* fittings would make it nicer, but not really needed. You will no longer have to worry about the hoses hitting anything or getting kinked.
jinman
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On our New Hollands, the way Nickel Plate has his hoses routed with a loop is the best. You DO NOT want to turn that DPOCV downward. See photo:
If you ever get an implement that is prone to rotating forward and over-center, it could smash your DPOCV and hose connections into the PTO shield. This is the voice of experience speaking. I've had two implements that will rotate the toplink over-center and down when the toplink is fully retracted (shortest length). My PTO shield is bent downward where the HTL hit it. If the hoses had been downward, it would have been a disaster instead of something I fixed by pulling the pin and backing up the tractor. I have one boxblade and one middle buster that I have to remember not to shorten the HTL to its minimum length. If your HTL is more than 19.5" retracted, you don't have to worry, but if it is 18" or 18.5" you have to be careful. I know lots of different tractors have different geometry, but I'm just saying on our particular model, it's important to loop the hoses as Nickel Plate did and keep that DPOCV pointed upwards.
BTW: You cannot use your HTL with a post-hole auger. The auger hooks directly to the toplink bracket on the tractor and you have to remove the HTL when digging post holes. It's a snap to remove and disconnect the hoses, so its an easy job, but you asked about limitations and that is one I know of.
If you ever get an implement that is prone to rotating forward and over-center, it could smash your DPOCV and hose connections into the PTO shield. This is the voice of experience speaking. I've had two implements that will rotate the toplink over-center and down when the toplink is fully retracted (shortest length). My PTO shield is bent downward where the HTL hit it. If the hoses had been downward, it would have been a disaster instead of something I fixed by pulling the pin and backing up the tractor. I have one boxblade and one middle buster that I have to remember not to shorten the HTL to its minimum length. If your HTL is more than 19.5" retracted, you don't have to worry, but if it is 18" or 18.5" you have to be careful. I know lots of different tractors have different geometry, but I'm just saying on our particular model, it's important to loop the hoses as Nickel Plate did and keep that DPOCV pointed upwards.
BTW: You cannot use your HTL with a post-hole auger. The auger hooks directly to the toplink bracket on the tractor and you have to remove the HTL when digging post holes. It's a snap to remove and disconnect the hoses, so its an easy job, but you asked about limitations and that is one I know of.
