Hydraulic top link

   / Hydraulic top link #11  
Grant,

Exactly like Bird says. The hydraulic link doesn't stop anything from working the way it did before. It just takes the "manual" out of changing the length of the top link.

The GlueGuy
 
   / Hydraulic top link #13  
<font color=blue>Does Gearmore have a web site?</font color=blue>

As a matter of fact they do: http://www.gearmore.com (not too hard to find /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif).

They have lots of good downloadable equipment brochures and specs, but I don't recall seeing the Tip 'N' Tilt. Could be I just didn't see it. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

HarvSig.gif
 
   / Hydraulic top link #14  
I just finished my TnT. I figured my cost at about $550 for all the parts that are installed on the tractor.

I bought my cylinders from Northern. I bought the top link end swivels from my local tractor shop for ~$10. One was welded on the rod that comes out of the cylinder. For the other end, I had to do some minor rework on the cylinder end, and then welded the swivel to the end.

For the side link, I fabricated a new angled end for it, and welded it to the end of the rod. For the top connection, I left the cylinder alone. Using a clevis pin, I fabbed bushings that fit the tractor and cylinder. All the angles match up with the original components. My original side link is completely intact, just in case I ever need it as a backup or?

The one thing I would look at if I did this again, is using welded cylinders instead of tie-rod cylinders. The tie-rod cylinders I used are somewhat large in overall diameter compared to a comparable welded cylinder. Welded cylinders though, are more $$$.

I did have to lengthen the fixed side link just a bit; the overall centered length of the side cylinder was a tad longer.

I am fortunate that a friend has a metal fab shop. He has torches, arc welders, cutoff tools, metal stock ect. If not for that, it would have cost more to have a shop do the fab work.

One thing I would think about too, is quick connects for the top link. I went to use my post hole auger, and it dawned on me it does not use the top link; I had to bungee cord the top link to the ROPS temporarily.

RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif
 
   / Hydraulic top link #15  
A couple months ago, I saw a Boomer with hydraulic cylinders on both sides of the 3pt. I imagine he got some impressive angles out of his box scraper!

RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif
 
   / Hydraulic top link #16  
<font color=blue>hydraulic cylinders on both sides of the 3pt</font color=blue>

Yeah, my friend/neighbor with the B7100 has cylinders on both sides of his 3PH, and he can really tip that baby. He does a most excellent job cleaning out the ditches on the side of the road. In fact, he can do an impressive job digging shallow trenches with his setup.

The GlueGuy
 
   / Hydraulic top link #17  
Mark Chalkley did both sides on his L4310 if I remember right.

Bird
 
   / Hydraulic top link #18  
If you can't find the Gearmore T&T on their web site, I have their complete catalog and I know it's in there. I can probably scan the page and post it. Let me know.



Larry...
 
   / Hydraulic top link #20  
Thanks Harv,

I found Gearmore on my own after I had ask the question. I don't know why it didn't come up the first time I tried. I also could not find any Top N Tilt info on there site, but I did E-mail them. I'll let you know what they have to say when they reply.

MarkV
 

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