Toplink Hydraulic Top Link

[Wingnut]

ok, clue me in. Hydraulic Top Link. I assume this is a hydraulic cylinder of the right size (diameter and length) to substitute for our manual top links? Is there a kit avaialble (obviously per tractor)? It obviously would require hydraulic connections ... so I assume this would necessitate installing a remote takeoff at the back end?

too bad that common sense ain't

 

[W5FL]

I am so glad you posted that as a new topic so others won't have to look under toolboxes to find where I wondered off topic. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

My Kubota dealer demonstrated one to me last week. It had both top and tilt links.

Yes, the top link just replaces your present top link and plugs into your existing SCV valves. You then move the lever and the box blade (or whatever) just does all the right things without you taking your life in your hands climbing off the tractor, getting between the tractor and the implement, turning the adjustments, and then hopping back on. Yes, I know there are some people who have long arms and are strong enough to do that from the seat. Wish I were one of them. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

The only thing I forgot to ask was how strong it is. With the rear blade, it takes a lot of force to pick up 600 pounds setting about 5 ft behind the tractor. He charged me $300 and that includes cutting the hoses and putting on the quick connect ends. It will probably never pay for itself but it will speed up a lot of tasks that never get done quite right because of the effort to re-adjust the top link every time it really needs to be adjusted. Just work a box blade on a 20 foot long stretch of gravel driveway and you will adjust the top link every time you go from grading forward to backward.

Someone really familiar with cylinders can surely do this better and cheaper as you will have to weld to both ends, but there are companies that specialize in making these things. As soon as mine comes in, I will let you know who the manufacturere is.

Now Mark, will have to come up with a way to re-adjust the top link with his hydro pedal. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[gordon]

Wen once you use the new toplink the money you spent will be just like the blade it will be paid for in one good hard days work. Take my word for that. I have a cab on mine and can't reach back to adjust a manual toplink that was the main reason I bought the hydraulic toplink and I kicked myself in the butt for not getting it sooner.

Today I was at the dealer and saw a L5450 With the Kubota T-N-T system two hydraulic sidelinks and a hydraulic top link controlled by one joystick for the side links and the toplinks----great setup./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
gordon

 

[Bird]

Wen, I haven't bought (or ordered) anything yet, but I have done some shopping, visited a couple of hydraulics places, and figure I can put the hydraulic top link and one side link on my B2710 for $500 to $600 (if I do the installation myself). Sure do want to; just don't want to spend that much right now, haven't decided on which valve to get, and where to mount the valve. My dealer says Kubota offers a kit to do this for some models but not the B2710. And according to him, those kits run $1,100 to $1,400.

Bird

 

[MChalkley]

Actually, Wen, I was thinking more along the lines of a heads-up display with an eye position sensor. But that's down the road a little. Today I worked on my new overhead console for the extra gauges, accessory sockets (to keep my cell phone, etc. charged up), toggle switches for front and rear lights, anti-theft switch and fuse panel. But that's a subject for another topic...

Mark

 

[TomG]

Regarding hydraulic connections: I have a 3 section spooling valve. Two sections for the loader and one for the rear. With a box scraper, the hydraulic top link just plugs into the rear hoses. When I use the 3ph pallet forks, the rear outlets go for the lift cylinder. To use the top ink link with the forks, I had the top link made up with hoses long enough to run to the spooling valves. I run the link from the loader bucket curl valve.

That set up does mean that I have to swap hoses, and I can't use the bucket curl unless I swap them back. However, it's not too painful since I usually put some dirt in the bucket for ballast before using the forks and leave it there. The set up probably will last only until the aggravation of hose swapping eventually causes me to do something else. The alternatives are to add a section to the spooling valves or add separate valves for the rear hydraulics. In the meantime, I'm a lot happier swapping hoses than adjusting manual top links.

 

[richh]

I hope at some time after you all get this t-n-t going that you will tell us all where we can buy this set up from some after market sorce. My Kubota guy said it would run $700.00 + labor for theirs. It must be orange! I looked in northern hyd but the cyl. all looked to big and the ends would have to be reworked + a kit would take all the gusse work out of it.
Rich

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by richh on 6/22/00 09:48 PM.</FONT></P>

 

[Bird]

richh, after a lot of discussion and information from the old forum (mostly from Mark Chalkley), I visited not only my Kubota dealer, but also a John Deere dealer, and a New Holland dealer, but then I just visited a couple of hydraulics places (you can probably find them in the Yellow Pages). What I want is just one hydraulic side link (Mark has both) and the top link (two spool valve open center valve, two double acting cylinders, 3-point type ends on the cylinders, hoses, etc.) and I'll do the installation myself. I found a variety of prices, but figure it's probably going to cost between $500 and $600. And since I'm not going to spend that much money right away, I'm hoping someone will come out with a "kit" for the B2710, but I'm not counting on it.

Bird

 

[Rowski]

Found this site with hyrdaulic cylinders. Click on the type of cylinder then click on the part # then click on additional info it will give the demensional specs.
http://www.baileynet.com/

 

[EddieW]

I was using a box blade today that ways about 800 lbs. It was almost impossible to adjust the link with the little 6" post they put on the manual top link. I called a JD dealer and he wants $620 to put hydraulics and a top link on. Anybody that can adjust the top link without getting off the tractor has to be a gorilla or I am doing something wrong. Can somebody tell me how to adjust it without pulling muscles or otherwise hurting myself? I have already thought of buying a hydraulic top link.