Toplink Hydraulic Top Link

[W5FL]

You should not need to replace your top link with a chain as most mowers have an upper link mechanism to provide the required amount of movement during the up and down relative motion of the tractor going over NORMAL terrain. The only affect that having a hydraulic top cylinder has on this is it makes it easy to adjust the top link to the correct length for the mower uppler link mechanism to function properly.

The top hydraulic top link looks just like the standard top link except it is a hyd cylinder with two hoses going to the external control pair of valves on the tractor.

Normally the tilt just replaces one of the 3 point lift vertical lift links. It provides a way to tilt the implement but also requires either a second set of external valves or long enough leads to use it inplace of one of the loader controls.

Telescoping links on the 3 point are only used to facilitate hooking the implement up without having to use a crowbar to horse the implement around to get the pins in. My wife seemed willing to buy any tractor that had telescoping links after she hooked up a 6 ft mower.

 

[gordon]

The good thing about a tie rod end cyl is its alot easier to pull apart for welding. So you don't melt the seals.

When piecing and parting a project in doesn't take long for the parts bill to add up. Good luck---
Gordon

 

[Bud]

Don't the tierod cylinders have cast iron ends? The piece welded to the end may break at the weld with a good jolt.
Bud

 

[Keoke]

Hey guys, consider getting a hydro control valve with a FLOAT position for the center link cyl. This is a nice feature to have when doing finish grading with your rear blade (reversed) and your box scraper.
The "float" detent could also be considered as an alternative to a chain for those flying bushogs, just kidding.

 

[W5FL]

I just ordered a hydraulic top link that should be here this week.

I can see no use to having the top link floating for use with a box blade and a lot of disadvantages. Can't see any reason for the reversed rear blade either. The 3 point arms already have a float position. This allows the entire blade to float with the terrain. A floating top link would allow the ANGLE of the box blade or rear blade to be uncontrolled and would not be helpful to me. Have you actually done this?

 

[Keoke]

Wen, the disadvantages can be removed by simply taking valve out of float. Yes, the lower arms can be set to float but in order for them to climb over anything they first must be lifted vertical in thier slots. Depending on how heavy your blade is, this may cause you to dig something out rather then float over it. Fliping your rear blade backwards allows you to float over rather then cut into whatever you are grading when going for a smooth finish. Allowing the top of bade to pivot freely (chain or flex mount) makes it even easier for blade to follow the ground. Of course, if you want to do some serious cutting then both the lower arms and top link should be as rigid as possiblle. I have side and center hyd cylinders on my tractor. But, I don't have the float option on my center link. However, if I was to buy a new control valve I would consider the float option, if cost is reasonable. Until then a chain does the job.
Good luck with your hyd center link, it will keep you in the seat more.

 

[W5FL]

Yeah, wished I could afford the side hydraulic link, too. Although I don't see it, I guess I can accept why you do it.

My box blade is 1000# and my rear blade is 650#. With the top link in float, the box blade would revert to maximum cut and simply set on the box blade ends, which is not usually what I need most of the time. Rear Blades are not very well managed anyway since they just have a single contact surface with the 3 point all over the place, looks like they would just push or pull the upper cylincer to the stop in float.

I am familiar with using the upper link (cylinder) to get at least 3 distinct cut and smoothing functions from the box blade. I have never used the 8 ft rear blade for anything other than cutting ditches so far. Guess I just don't see any advantage to the rear blade backwards as oppossed to the box blade setting on the rear blade (front blade up in the air) since the box blade is considerably heavier.

I see an advantage to having a large gauge wheel behind the rear blade, but don't have one. I can see no way that gauge wheels would help my box blade, simply because the weight is pretty high and it is the blade itself that keeps it stabilized from side to side (rocking) and not the 3 point and holding it up off the ground by a predetermined amount would be extremely difficult to manage or adjust. I can see doing this with a rake, but the rake works very well without the gauge wheels.

 

[EddieW]

HAs anybody looked at how to hook the hydraulics up? I have a JD4300 and the hydraulics are already back to the seat where the lever for the Front End Loader is. Seems like I should be able to tee off there and run the line to another lever to control the toplink and only have to run plumbing a couple of feet. Is there a better or another way to hook this up? I didn't look long so I may have missed something. Just trying yo get an idea of how hard it is to hook up so I can decide to try it myself or pay the price.

 

[MChalkley]

EddieW - If you don't buy the manufacturer's own kit to do it, you can usually take your pressure from the Power Beyond port on the loader valve. Just don't forget that you have to return the pressure to tank somewhere, too. If you're going to use this approach, you're also most likely going to be getting your own valve, too. Make sure it's an open center type, or there will be big trouble. (Obviously, if you have an old tractor with closed center hydraulics, the situation is reversed.)

Mark

 

[EddieW]

I was really thinking more about buying the dealer's kit and hooking it up myself. I just don't want to get it home and find out it is a lot worse than it appears. What do you mean by open center and closed center?

 

[MChalkley]

EddieW - Rather than answer it again, I'll refer you to a post where it was discussed earlier. Click on this link: http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=ag&Number=4997&page=&view=&sb=&vc=1 and you'll find the answer, I think. If you have any further questions, just ask.

Mark

 

[EddieW]

Excellent description, thanks. I will keep this in mind as I try to figure out what I want to do. My guess is I have open center ports but I will verify that before I do anything.

 

[Keoke]

Wen, my box blade is a Gannon and the rear blade can be pinned shut. By pining the blade shut and lifting the box front high enough so that only the curved outward rear blade is setting on the ground I can get a nice finish grade going forward on it's rolled edge. The chain let's the rear blade follow the ground whenever the tractor and the scraper are not on the same plane. Have not done this with a floating ram, but my guess is that if you put it in the middle of it's travel. Then let it float, ram could act like a weak shock absorber as the box follows the ground.
Let me know what you you think.

 

[W5FL]

When I was looking at John Deere, they would add another external valve for about $800. Unfortunately most other manufacturers are just a little less expensive. My tractor would have 2 for the loader and 3 others if I could find a way to afford them. There are kits that dealers install that do the equivalent. Most people just take a bucket dump hose loose and connect them there unless they use them a lot. If you take the loader off, you have two sets free anyway.

 

[W5FL]

Keoke,

Yes, I keep the rear Gannon blade pinned shut, and keep the box blade pushed back on the rear blade. Yes, I finally see what you are doing and why you are using the chain and looking for a float valve! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

You get exactly the same effect to float the 3 point and push the blade back with the top link. Interesting how we all come up with different ways to accomplish almost the same thing. I control it from the top link and you control it from the 3 point. If the 3 point didn't have a float position, then I would be doing it the same way you are. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I guess I would have to try both to see if there is any particular advantage to floating the top link. Floating the bottom links on the 3 point allows the rear blade to compress and drag the soil and also lets it take care of side to side variations or slight slopes. Guess you will have to try it both ways.

 

[EddieW]

Went to the JD dealer today to pick up a rear work light. The JD 4300 I have has everything built in to hook up the hydraulics for a hydraulic top link. The kit the price was $220. It has 3 ports and to get a fourth and fifth costs and additional $695. Can somebody explain why they have three ports and not four? I didn't understand everything he was saying about it. It looks like it would not be too difficult, just time consuming. It is $200 labor for him to do it either way. He was very helpful in telling me how to do it. That does NOT include the hydraulic cylinder. He recommended a Gannon cylinder because the JD cylinders all have fork ends rather than pivot ball ends. He said they would have to be machined to work right plus he thought a 6" cylinder would work better. DOes any body know where you can get the hydraulic cylinders with the pivot ball ends? What kind of cost? His guess was about $175. Does that sound right? He thought Gannon made them to fit. I looked at the Power Link on the Woods web page and it was very difficult to tell what I was looking at. THe TL CHief links on the Baileynet.com page were big ole rascals. Maybe they make or stock smaller ones as well.

 

[Bird]

EddieW, if you can find a Tisco dealer, they have a category I hydraulic top link cylinder, part# HTL2102, 2" cylinder, 20" retracted length, 8" stroke, and the dealer I talked to priced it at $160.

Bird

 

[EddieW]

Thanks, BIrd, I'll check it out. Also, thanks for all the rain you Texans sent us. This has been the wettest June around here in 4-5 years. You can keep the grasshoppers, though. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[W5FL]

I just picked up the Gannon hydraulic top link today. Like all Gannon attachments, there are no instructions and no specifications. It really looks heafty and is made to fit your tractor. The dealer or you add the ends to connect to the hydraulic system. The total cost was $300. The cylinder looks like it is about 3 inches in diameter, so it should be pretty strong. Anyone have any specs on similar units?

This one has a cat II on one end and a cat I on the other end. The retracted link is supposed to be the same as the top link retracted that came on the tractor. I will let you know.

 

[MarkV]

To attach the backhoe to my tractor a T-N-T system would have to be removed each time. Should I expect it to be any harder to remove than the standard 3pt system? Has anyone put on Kubota's T-N-T kit or seen how well designed they are?

Thanks-MarkV