Hydraulic/transmission fluid

[rimshot]

I walked into Walmart and picked up a gallon of Shell RotellaT 15W-40 oil so that I would have it on hand when I get to to my initial oil change at 50 hours. I have a new ck20 HST. That should be pretty good oil, right? I see the manual calls for a designation of CC or CD. This jug of RotellaT fails to list that designation. I thought Shell Rotella was always a given for diesels. Does anybody have any suggestions for an engine oil. At the rate I'm getting hours on my machine, I suspect this next oil change should have Summer in mind. Our cool climate would probably average 65-70 * for the Summer.

I also picked up a couple of two gallon jugs of Super Tech hydraulic/transmission farm tractor fluid marketed by Wal-Mart. It's supposedly marketed to be compatible with all present manufacturer's of tractors specifications. Reading my manual it looks like i will need another 2 gal jug of the stuff as the CK20 system holds 5.71 gallon.

Any comments on these two tractor fluids. The super tech was fairly cheap but claims to be compatible with several listed manufacturer's tranny fluids like Shell Donax, Mobil fluid and Exxon Torque fluid 56.

rim

 

[Soundguy]

If your tranny fluid spec was listed on the walmart UTF.. you should be OK. I've been using walmart fluid in my big fords for years now.

as for the oil.. if it does not have a 'C' spec on it be carefull.. DO NOT use a 'S' only rated oil in a diesel. Is it possible the oil has a higher 'C' spec that the one your manual calls for.. like perhaps.. CI-4.. etc..

soundguy

 

[KICK]

CC and CD are very old classifications, current Rotella oudoes them by a mile so you are good to go.

 

[Jim-Satoh]

The Rotella diesel engine oil is 15-40 wt. recommended on the back of the jug for diesels. I put it in my Buck also.
Transmission--Bill told me I could use 80-90 wt. in the transmission. I use the Tech in the blue jug also for my transmission.
This is a question I have for the guys. Bill told me the transmission handles fluids for the final drives transmission and hydraulic's. I read an article where that was quoted as being wrong even in the manual. After putting 80-90 wt. in my transmission, it may be wrong and Bill told me on the phone Friday night to do it, I hope he had it right.---Your opinions.
I drained oil from 3 plugs, the engine and both final drives, nothing else. The unit under the seat with the plug in it, seems to be part of the pto / upper arm unit. My data plate is what I am using, and some say it is even wrong. My transmission does in fact hold about 3.17 gallons--but the engine holds more than .08 gallons or 3 quarts.---I need you guys opinion here before I mess up if I have not already. I used almost a gallon in the engine and its still low on the dip stick.---Help

 

[Soundguy]

I'm not familiar with your specific machine. I've owned many domestic and foriegn compacts.. .. most of them with open sumps.. though a few with seperate sumps...

I would get a manual on that machine.. or at least a manual for a domestic unit, if it has a 'sister' in one of the domestic lines's.

As for your oil.

IF it has a common sump rear that holds oil for final drives, tranny, and hyds all together.. then don't use gear oil.. use UTF type fluid.

If you have a seperate tranny sump, seperate HYD sump, and seperate diffy/final drive sumps, then you should be able to use GEAR OIL in all the sumps except the HYDS. In the HYD sump, use UTF or AW32 hyd fluid. My vote is on the UTF though.

For your engine, use diesel rated oil correct for your temperature / region.. in general.. 15w40 is pretty good for all but desert and arctic conditions.

Again.. without knowing that machine.. I can't help you with quantity specifics.... If it is a real small machine.. i guess it could hold 3qts of oil.. ... If you believe the oil dipstick you have is correct.. I'd fill to the full mark.

Do you know anyone with a similar unit you can ask to double check the oil dipstick lenght.. or if they have a manual.

soundguy

 

[Jim-Satoh]

My S-470 Buck is a small compact tractor. I am hoping a Buck owner would jump on board also and answer a question or two. Basically I found 3 drain plugs--1 on the engine and 2 on the rear drives--there is no drain plug on the tranny that I could find, but it does have a place on top for oil next to the gear shift. The amount of oil that was drained tells me that the final drives and tranny use the same oils. About 3 gallons came out of the 2 final drives and about 1 gallon from the engine. Bill told me to use 80-90 in tranny, plus I used 15-40 diesel oil in the engine. I also saw a post by Bill that disputed what he told me in reference to the operators manual being wrong on types of fluids. Bill has my manuals on the way. I am using the data from the manfacturer data plate on the tractor that list this information, types and amounts of different lubes to use and where.

 

[Mundy]

Try posting your questions in the Satoh Mitsubisi forum.

My understanding is that like my Beaver your Buck has a common trans/hyd sump. The 80/90W is what the manual calls for and is fine. If you have a loader or run other hyd attachments something like JD303 or compatable would be substituted for the 80/90W.
As for the amount of engine oil are you sure your dipstick is not broken off?
Is it .8 gal? Thats almost a gallon then once you fill the filter it may really be almost a gallon.
Have you run it since you changed the oil? Is the oil foamy after it runs?

When you changed the 80/90 did you clean the suction screen? It is located directly opposite the suction line on the trans case. When you take the screen out be aware you are goin to drain about 80% to 90% of the 80/90 you just put in.

 

[Z-Michigan]

I run Shell Rotella-T synthetic 5W-40 in my Deere. I also get gallon jugs at Wally world. The dino 15W-40 should be fine, but if you only use one gallon the price increase for full synthetic will be tiny (another $9 or so), and you will get somewhat easier starting and potentially lower wear from using it. Anyway, yes Shell Rotella is good oil for diesel engines. Current spec is CJ-4, but CI-4 is immediate past and still good for it. CC and CD are beyond ancient - I think they date to the 1980's or even earlier.

Regardless of hours, you should probably change engine oil and filter at least once a year.

I haven't yet changed hydraulic fluid, so can't comment on that.

 

[Mundy]

Something else regarding the oil. 3 quarts is only .75 Gal so if you have a full quart left out of your Gallon then your level should be low, especially after the filter is filled.

.8 Gal is 3 liters not 3 quarts.

I agree with Z-Michigan regarding the synthetic.

 

[Soundguy]

The hyds' on that machine want to pump gear oil? That's a really really odd arangement. most open sump machines like UTF.. oldies like 8n's that are open sump like gear oil.. but I havn't seen a new one yet that did.. especially not if it uses a vane pump.

Any more info on this?

soundguy