Hydraulics for Rear Blade

[JohnMiller3]

<font color=blue>...3" x8" cylinders ...</font color=blue>

Did you measure the "travel" of the blade x/y axis to determine min/max prior to deciding on an 8" unit...?

From the picture, it appears you have a lot more "wiggle" room for tilt... like 12-16" travel (guessing) for ditching purposes...

Also what system are you incorporating to determine the blade is "level" with it's A-frame... or just "seat of the pants" method now...? /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[MikePA]

Wow /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif, that is one sweet setup. I'm drooling all over my keyboard! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[Phred]

George,

I think by side tilt you mean blade offset? In otherwords the whole blade assembly shifts such that the center of the blade is not directly behind the tractor. This is the only axis that I have not setup with the hydraulics.
I can adjust this with a pin and have ~ 4 settings. I played with it a bit but did not find it very useful for two reasons.
1) This blade is very heavy. With the loader off the whole tractor tips back a bit when you pick it up. Not enough to be a hazard but its a full load. If you now offset this to the side of the tractor I think I would be risky at the edge of a ditch.
Filled tractor tires would probably solve this issue.
2) This blade is 9' so it sticks out beyond the tractor (about 6' wide) a good bit. So I don't really need to shift it. If you had a short blade the offset would be critical since you need to get the tip of the blade in the ditch and not the rear tractor tire in the ditch.

Tip and tilt would probably be just as good. I don't have that setup. I did think about it but decided that the only implement that would need it would be this blade. Also I figured it would be a pain to make sure mowers and other implements were level. I guess the best way to do the tilt would be to swap one of the 3-point arms with a cylinder.

This setup has all the tilt I think I need. I get more tilt out of the cylinder than I can use since when I raise the 3-point completely the end of the blade hits the ground before the cylinder runs out of stroke.

I don't think the front to back tilt is critical. It might help with flow of material off the blade. Not sure how much it would help though.

Good luck with your blade project. For buidling ditches this is the way to go.

Fred

 

[Phred]

John,

I have been pleased with bison. Similar quality to high end woods at a lower price. Very solid equipment.

I am still reeling from the 3rd remote cost. Orgionally they (NH dealer) told me $500 installed. No its gone up and its about ~$500 for the parts only! I think I will find away to "add" my own with some valves.

I have not measured the tilt but its the better part of 2 feet. Allows for deep ditch cutting.

Level is strictly seat of the pants. I would be good to work out some level indicator because its hard to tell while in the seat.

I used a very precise method to calculate the size of the cylinders. Bison offers a hydraulic version and they use 3x8. So I bought one and tried it out. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif
Turns out that must be designed for that since any longer would not work. You would hit the back tractor tire with the blade swing and also not be able to get back to parallel.

Fred