Hydraulics questions again :)

   / Hydraulics questions again :) #11  
True, just purging the system with new oil wont get the oil out of the aux hoses that run to the cyl, or from the cylinders themselfs, but just run them in and out while doing the purge and that would take care of it. We didnt operate any of the equipment when we where doing the change over from 68 to dextron. That has been several years ago and most of that equipment is still in service today. I dont think you have anything to worry about mixing what ever residual oil would be left over after the purging with new oil. In fact, I would just probably run the machine as is and wouldnt bother with trying to switch back to 10w40.
 
   / Hydraulics questions again :) #12  
I have a Dig-It. It has 10-40 oil in the hydraulic system.
I've never had a leak or need to top off in the 2 years I've owned it
so not much help. Some parts are still available. I have a contact number
somewhere I will dig up and list in this thread.
 
   / Hydraulics questions again :)
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I have a Dig-It. It has 10-40 oil in the hydraulic system.
I've never had a leak or need to top off in the 2 years I've owned it
so not much help. Some parts are still available. I have a contact number
somewhere I will dig up and list in this thread.

Thanks sparc I appreciate it.. I am at the point where I need to find parts if available.

Since my last post I managed to get me one deer in the freezer so I can focus a little more on the Dig-It. so here is what has happened so far.

I removed the curl cylinder and sent it off to be rebuilt. A local guy says he can do it for $60 so I am going to take him up on it. Unfortunately, the fluid that came out of it was more like chocolate milk and not any fluid I have ever seen so a complete drain of the system will be on the to do list before reassembly. I figure I will drain the reservoir, and fill with fresh clean fluid. then remove the return line and cap it off putting the return in a bucket. Then purge each circuit until fresh clean fluid runs from the each of the cylinder supplies. after cylinder is stroked both ways. Best way I can think of without making a total mess out of the shop.

as I was removing the cylinder I noticed a lot of play in the pins and bushings on the bucket, bucket links, and the dipper arm. So I pulled them all and the bushings are worn pretty good and one of the pins is rusted and shot. So I will be trying to find compatible replacements before reassembly.

With that being said if I cannot find them I have done some research on the threads for how to make bushings and that is completely confusing depending on who wrote what I still do not know what the good candidate metal is for homemade bushings. I hate to start a new thread on this with all the ones currently covering it but a layman as myself cannot make sense of the differing options in each thread. So if one of you have some experience in this area please let me know what your recommendation is. I have have knocked the bushes out of the bucket, bucket links, and dipper arm. They are not weld in but a press fit. They have 1.5" OD and are .5" wide but unfortunately ID shot.. One of the better pins has an OD just shy of 1.25" so I would assume the ID of the bushings should be around 1.25"
 

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